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Old 11-12-2006, 03:57 PM   #21
rames14
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Thanks to all. Here is what happened. First, I made sure the battery cables were secured so they couldn't short out. Then, I connected the shore cable and everything worked - 110V and 12V systems. However, just as Mudchief said, without the battery, everything worked much slower on the slides - almost having the lights dim out. I just needed to put the slides out and back in - not something I wanted to drag batteries back out for again. So, now I know that on the 3400 everything works except for the slides run much slower.
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Old 11-12-2006, 04:10 PM   #22
Ozz
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Cool, glad it worked out.
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Old 11-12-2006, 05:48 PM   #23
DONnANNIE
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As a side question, if after I winterize and still have AC power from a 30 amp outlet plugged into my Montana, should I remove the battery over the winter OR leave it in the Montana. I understand that with the AC plugged in, the AC converter will keep the battery charged. I also understand that I need to check the water level of the battery monthly. Is there another reason, that I'm not aware of, for removing the battery from the Montana over the winter?

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Old 11-13-2006, 03:08 AM   #24
Ozz
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I would leave it in, the battery will need less maintenance, and last longer if you can use a computerized module that turns your converter into a 3 stage charger. Check the Iota web site and read about it there.
On my Monte it just plugs into the converter. I'll see if I can find the information and add it to this post.
(As long as your battery is charged, it will be fine in the cold.)
Ozz
Converter (Battery charger and 12 volt power supply)

Did you know?
Your converter is a 55 amp. (Medium size) 15 amps to 90 amps; with a rapid charge capability?
It comes with a male plastic phone type jack taped to the unit that, when inserted, will provide a temporary rapid charge for your 12 volt storage system. (single, or multiple 12 volt batteries, or an even number of Golf Cart batteries . Normal 13.6, to 14.2 fast charge.
This is a temporary mode of operation, as it would boil, or overcharge if left in. Useful for a quick charge need.
It’s maximum amp draw is 15 amps. (A/C)
If you blow fuses, look for reverse polarity, these fuses are designed for that.
Your converter has built in protection from:
Voltage spikes
Low line voltage (power from the main, coming in to the RV) Sometimes referred to as ‘Brown out’
Your converter can be used with, OR without a battery connected with no adverse effects.
All and all a pretty sophisticated piece of equipment.
Read up on the IQ Smart charger option;
http://www.iotaengineering.com/iq.htm
Ozz
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Old 11-13-2006, 06:25 AM   #25
noneck
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Ozz, That one looks like my old one which was also solid state (Todd Engineering, went out of business). My 2002 Monty is back to an integrated descrete component assembly mounted at the base of my CB Panel. Should this one crap out I will consider purchasing one of these Iota Engineering units and wire it into the DC input of the CB Panel. Thanks,
Chuck
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Old 11-13-2006, 03:56 PM   #26
DONnANNIE
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Ozz, there you go again - "The Answer Man"

Thanks for the info. I'll definitely look it up.
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Old 11-14-2006, 02:05 AM   #27
Ozz
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You bet, Don.
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Old 11-19-2006, 10:42 AM   #28
Montana_3539
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Used to take my batteries out, now leave them in. Picked up a small solar panel (about 18" sq) trickle- charger. Just plug it in to the 12V TV plug in my bedroom. Just went down & checked after a 2- month store & the batteries were fully charged. Do not leave it plugged in when using the rig but just found out I probably could with no problems. Cost was about $56 on sale at Kragens Auto Supply in 2004.
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Old 01-31-2007, 08:31 AM   #29
Bob & Lee
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Well, after reading all this I have mine turned off with the the new switch in the control box, everything is running good. Should I leave it on in the winter below 0 to keep from freezing on will it be ok if full charge? Or is it better for the Batteries to get a IQ Smart charger and leave it on all the time?

Bob
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Old 01-31-2007, 09:28 AM   #30
kmh3212
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My 2004 has a Parallax model 500 (assume 50 amp) per the instructions it is fine to run without a battery. noneck I tend to agree that the battery will keep the voltage fluctuations to a minimum. I have an overcharge issue with my converter. I disconnect the battery once it is fully charged and reconnect it when load the converter down with a high amp draw as in the landing gear or the hydraulic slide motor.
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Old 01-31-2007, 10:10 AM   #31
Cat320
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Bob & Lee

Well, after reading all this I have mine turned off with the the new switch in the control box, everything is running good. Should I leave it on in the winter below 0 to keep from freezing on will it be ok if full charge? Or is it better for the Batteries to get a IQ Smart charger and leave it on all the time?

Bob
If it's going to zero, here's what I'd do:
- Get the IQ4, leave the the trailer plugged in.
- Take the battery out and take it home.
- If just sitting for a short while, leave the battery in the trailer but turn off all 12v power with the little red key...12v flashlight, smoke alarm, propane detector, etc.

We are having a very cold spell, don't have power to the trailer, won't be using it for a couple of weeks, so my battery is on a board in the garage.
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Old 01-31-2007, 11:36 AM   #32
rickety
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Kinda got me wondering too. I've been running for the last year with no batteries hooked up. Correction--I have hooked them up to excercise the slides periodically. Other than that, I have run on AC power for the last year, and the 12 volt lights work just fine. Reefer works on AC, haven't tried it on 12V DC. No electrical problems encountered anywhere, Thank goodness
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Old 01-31-2007, 02:03 PM   #33
ggranch
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Carol, I don't think you missed anything. I may be wrong (I'll be corrected "fersure" if I am) but I believe as others said, the battery supplies the heavy voltage when needed (and all other 12vdc), the converter can and does supply the 12vdc also. The rigs can be run without a battery but not well. Now I'm getting confused too.LOL
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