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Old 12-30-2019, 07:57 PM   #61
CADman_KS
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One your grandchildren can carry the other will break your back trying to lift.
LOL!

You don't need a slider!!!
 
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Old 12-30-2019, 08:25 PM   #62
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I've been following this thread for a while. Now we will soon be buying a new Ram with 8' bed and considering either the Ultimate or the B & W Companion. Anybody with comparative experience?

With an 8' bed you can use any hitch that suits you. I'd take a serious look at either the Andersen or the Pullrite Lite for their simplicity and weight.
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Old 12-30-2019, 08:36 PM   #63
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I've been following this thread for a while. Now we will soon be buying a new Ram with 8' bed and considering either the Ultimate or the B & W Companion. Anybody with comparative experience?
No comparative experience here (I do have a B&W), just a couple of F.Y.I.s. as you live in CA.

o - The DMV considers the Anderson to be a ball type hitch and therefore requires safety chains. It is not a "fifth wheel" hitch.

o - A CA Non-Commercial Class A license is required to tow a ball mounted RV over 10K (which is any Montana/HC). Normally a 5th wheel hitch RV only requires a Non-Commercial Class A if it is over 15K.
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Old 12-30-2019, 08:53 PM   #64
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No comparative experience here (I do have a B&W), just a couple of F.Y.I.s. as you live in CA.

o - The DMV considers the Anderson to be a ball type hitch and therefore requires safety chains. It is not a "fifth wheel" hitch.

o - A CA Non-Commercial Class A license is required to tow a ball mounted RV over 10K (which is any Montana/HC). Normally a 5th wheel hitch RV only requires a Non-Commercial Class A if it is over 15K.
Correct on the chains,doesn't make a lot of sense , but it is what it is, and it is Ca. I believe Arizona is another ,could be more.

Glad I live in Utah ,no class A license required. Ca., again is not the only state to require a class A license.

Sounds like a real pain, a very long thread on RVnet about it. Gotta take a drivers test with truck, and fifth wheel it sounds like.
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Old 12-30-2019, 09:01 PM   #65
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...

o - A CA Non-Commercial Class A license is required to tow a ball mounted RV over 10K (which is any Montana/HC). Normally a 5th wheel hitch RV only requires a Non-Commercial Class A if it is over 15K.
Is this for only people that live in CA and have a CA license, or anyone driving thru there???
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Old 12-30-2019, 09:13 PM   #66
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I've been following this thread for a while. Now we will soon be buying a new Ram with 8' bed and considering either the Ultimate or the B & W Companion. Anybody with comparative experience?
Here is what I know about the difference between the Andersen rail mount , and a conventional hitch. In my case,I tow with a short bed Ram 3500, so it doesn't apply to you, but obviously its not a slider, but does let the fifth wheel sit further back, and no clearance problems with my setup. Thats the big difference for someone with a short bed .I also tow with a conventional 18K slider.

The towing is the same for me, I can't tell the difference between the two. I switch off towing with both ,depends on the trip. Only thing about the Andersen ,is that its at least 3-4 inches you have to raise the fifth wheel further to get it on , off the ball. just takes a bit more time ,and a bit annoying. .

IMO , other then the ease of getting the hitch in ,and out of the truck, I see no advantage to the Andersen , actually a bit more hassle, some states require chains. Having as said to raise it higher . and with the aluminum gooseneck mounted Andersen, there is a chance of bed damage. If I was starting from scratch, the B&W hands down the better choice, or for that matter any good quality conventional fixed hitch.
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Old 12-30-2019, 09:20 PM   #67
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Is this for only people that live in CA and have a CA license, or anyone driving thru there???
I think I can answer that, reading that long thread on another forum, just if you live in Ca. I live in Utah , it doesn't require it, and I can tow my fifth wheel anywhere I want , I am legally licensed to drive my truck, and tow my fifth wheel .
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Old 12-30-2019, 09:47 PM   #68
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CA and IN require chains regardless of your licensing state. Most folks, including yours truly, just buy the chains and leave them on. No fuss.
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Old 12-30-2019, 10:03 PM   #69
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One your grandchildren can carry the other will break your back trying to lift.
Maybe I need the exercise.
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Old 12-31-2019, 08:34 AM   #70
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I’m pretty sure that just like towing doubles or triples, you need to adhere to the safety regulations of the state you are driving in. Also keep in mind that the safety chains must be rated for the load being towed, i.e. if your trailer weighs 16,000lbs then each of your 2 chains and related hardware must be rated for at least 8,000lbs. You’re not going to find that at Home Depot!
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Old 12-31-2019, 08:38 AM   #71
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I think I can answer that, reading that long thread on another forum, just if you live in Ca. I live in Utah , it doesn't require it, and I can tow my fifth wheel anywhere I want , I am legally licensed to drive my truck, and tow my fifth wheel .
That would have been my assumption, but we all know where those get us.

Thanks for the information!!
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Old 12-31-2019, 10:01 AM   #72
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I just purchased a new Ram 3500 SB just 3 days ago trading my ford SB. Many of us have SB because turning radius is important, at least that is our main priority as we have a tight parking situation that actually requires a 110 degrees turn in tight confines.

I went with the Andersen for two reasons 1st we have two parking options at home one is the 5er is on level ground and the truck is 12 degrees at point of disconnect which the Ball type hitch can easily accommodate, however our second and primary parking option at home requires a 110 degree backing turn to get into our RV carport. Mind you we have a 3791RD at 41'.

With that said for extremely tight turning the Andersen ball hitch allows me to get my max turn (about 80+ degrees) then drop the 5er disconnect and then reconnect at a different angle to complete the 110 degree turn. This takes all of a 5 minutes to drop and reconnect. The Ball hitch makes this easy whereas the kingpin hitch's have far more limitation with offset disconnects and reconnects at angles.

I originally had a Reese Slider and could not maneuver into my carport, now with the Andersen I am GOLDEN...

As for the Safety chains what's an extra $80 and it only takes 30 seconds to hook them up.

My 3rd reason for dumping the slider and going Andersen is Payload with the Andersen Hitch I gained nearly 200lbs of Payload, that us invaluable since I was borderline on payload as it was with our SRW wheel rig and a Slider hitch.
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Old 12-31-2019, 10:17 AM   #73
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I just purchased a new Ram 3500 SB just 3 days ago trading my ford SB. Many of us have SB because turning radius is important, at least that is out main priority as we have a tight parking situation that actually requires a 110 degrees turn in tight confines.

I went with the Andersen for two reasons 1st we have two parking options at home one is the 5er is on level ground and the truck is 12 degrees at point of disconnect which the Ball type hitch can easily accommodate, however our second parking option at home requires a 110 degree backing turn to get into out RV carport. Mind you we have a 3791RD at 41'.

With that said for extremely tight turning the Andersen ball hitch allows me to get my max turn (about 80+ degrees) then drop the 5er disconnect and then reconnect at a different angle to complete the 110 degree turn. This takes all of a 5 minutes to drop and reconnect. The Ball hitch makes this easy whereas the kingpin hitch's have far more limitation with offset disconnects and reconnects at angles.

I originally had a Reese Slider and could not maneuver into my carport, now with the Andersen I am GOLDEN...

As for the Safety chains what's an extra $80 and it only takes 30 seconds to hook them up.

I can't disagree with you on any of your points, having towed ,and hitched ,and unhitched with an Andersen.

I have somewhat that same situation , although I don't need to unhitch, and then hitch back up. I can get away with leaving my reese hitch in the tow position ,and back into my driveway, although it makes it a little easier if I move the hitch back, with the Andersen same I don't have an issue. Having an Andersen is for a different reason for me. When I don't need to remove a hitch away from home I use the Reese slider.

Not knocking the Andersen , I have one ,but it would be the last hitch I would own if circumstances didn't make it convenient to take out away from home. I have a electric hoist in my garage, and it takes 10 minutes to back under it ,and remove that heavy Reese slider. I prefer the conventional hitch.
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Old 12-31-2019, 10:19 AM   #74
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I just purchased a new Ram 3500 SB just 3 days ago trading my ford SB. Many of us have SB because turning radius is important, at least that is our main priority as we have a tight parking situation that actually requires a 110 degrees turn in tight confines.

I went with the Andersen for two reasons 1st we have two parking options at home one is the 5er is on level ground and the truck is 12 degrees at point of disconnect which the Ball type hitch can easily accommodate, however our second and primary parking option at home requires a 110 degree backing turn to get into our RV carport. Mind you we have a 3791RD at 41'.

With that said for extremely tight turning the Andersen ball hitch allows me to get my max turn (about 80+ degrees) then drop the 5er disconnect and then reconnect at a different angle to complete the 110 degree turn. This takes all of a 5 minutes to drop and reconnect. The Ball hitch makes this easy whereas the kingpin hitch's have far more limitation with offset disconnects and reconnects at angles.

I originally had a Reese Slider and could not maneuver into my carport, now with the Andersen I am GOLDEN...

As for the Safety chains what's an extra $80 and it only takes 30 seconds to hook them up.

My 3rd reason for dumping the slider and going Andersen is Payload with the Andersen Hitch I gained nearly 200lbs of Payload, that us invaluable since I was borderline on payload as it was with our SRW wheel rig and a Slider hitch.
This is a GREAT post and great information!!! I was sure that the Andersen wouldn't get to 90, even on the new Chevy's with more distance, but I didn't know that number. While I think that the Chevy's get more than 80, I don't see how they get to 90. I haven't done the measurement, but I'm pretty sure that I'm over 80 degrees in my driveway for sure.

When I add all of this up, I'm going with an auto slider again. For me (YMMV), I just like the insurance that the slider affords me. I just drive. I don't worry about hitting the cab of the truck, or stopping to slide, it just happens automatically.

And, I agree with this post that I do not want a LB truck. The SB turns bad enough. The LB would be the pits as a daily driver. A daily driver for the DW...
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Old 12-31-2019, 10:23 AM   #75
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...

Not knocking the Andersen , I have one ,but it would be the last hitch I would own if circumstances didn't make it convenient to take out away from home. I have a electric hoist in my garage, and it takes 10 minutes to back under it ,and remove that heavy Reese slider. I prefer the conventional hitch.
I just recently built a hoist apparatus to use on my tractor, and that has worked well. Now, I can get the hitch in and out of the truck by myself. I don't think that my wife would lift the SuperGlide to the bed height of the 2020 Chevy. It's all we could do to get it in the 2002...
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Old 12-31-2019, 10:36 AM   #76
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I just recently built a hoist apparatus to use on my tractor, and that has worked well. Now, I can get the hitch in and out of the truck by myself. I don't think that my wife would lift the SuperGlide to the bed height of the 2020 Chevy. It's all we could do to get it in the 2002...

I have helped a friend put his Superglide in his truck, it was more fun then I would like We are getting to the age we have no business lifting that hitch by hand. He has since went to the Andersen, he is not totally happy with it, but it solved his getting the hitch in ,and out of his truck when there is no one around. I did encourage him to put a hoist in ,but he just went with the Andersen.

Superglide sounds like the way to go for you , if there are no issues having to get hitched or unhitched at too much of an angle. From what I understand you can't hitch or unhitch at a certain angle ??
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Old 12-31-2019, 10:54 AM   #77
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I have helped a friend put his Superglide in his truck, it was more fun then I would like We are getting to the age we have no business lifting that hitch by hand. ...
You ain't kidding there!!!

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...

Superglide sounds like the way to go for you , if there are no issues having to get hitched or unhitched at too much of an angle. From what I understand you can't hitch or unhitch at a certain angle ??
I have never had the angle issue, but I think it's 10 degrees off centerline of truck. If I ever ran into the issue at a campsite, I would probably lift the entire head assembly off to get unhooked. Hopefully, I could get back sqaure to hook up. I'd I couldn't, not for sure what I would do. Not hoping to find out!!!
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Old 12-31-2019, 11:03 AM   #78
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I just recently built a hoist apparatus to use on my tractor, and that has worked well. Now, I can get the hitch in and out of the truck by myself. I don't think that my wife would lift the SuperGlide to the bed height of the 2020 Chevy. It's all we could do to get it in the 2002...
I also considered the Superglide however the 20K version weights in at 197lbs plus of you add the ISR or bed mounted rails that adds additional weight, that will likely put you at or at or over the payload if towing your 3741 5er.

For me since ALL SB trucks have small fuel tanks I added (just ordered yesterday) a 46 gal bed Aux fuel tank. Tank weights 60lb and 42 gal extra fuel (I will not top it) is about 300lbs so now I have 78 gal capacity as range is very important to me. there is no way I could bear the weight of a slider and aux tank as will be right at payload (I weighed the truck on the way home from the dealer and I already weighed the 5er).

So I traded the Slider for fuel capacity. Those are my priorities and I understand others may differ. But looking for a fuel stop I can fit into every 200-250 miles is a non starter for me.

The other upside is the cost of the Andersen and the Aux fuel tank together was about the same as the Superslide hitch by itself.

Keep on mind I do have a 3791RD which has the 10' storage compartment in the rear that allows me to minimize my pin weight but storing the heavier items at the back of the 5er. I doubt I have 200lbs in the from basement and with a front BR maybe 200lbs of stuff. So my pin weight when weighed (loaded) was 3320lbs which allows me the added fuel so I have 500-800lbs of payload to spare depending on stuff in the truck and the wife.
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Old 12-31-2019, 12:34 PM   #79
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I also considered the Superglide however the 20K version weights in at 197lbs plus of you add the ISR or bed mounted rails that adds additional weight, that will likely put you at or at or over the payload if towing your 3741 5er.

...
Believe you me, I checked, and rechecked that multiple times, and I'm good there, even with the heavier SuperGlide. That's what I based my numbers on.

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..

For me since ALL SB trucks have small fuel tanks I added (just ordered yesterday) a 46 gal bed Aux fuel tank. Tank weights 60lb and 42 gal extra fuel (I will not top it) is about 300lbs so now I have 78 gal capacity as range is very important to me. there is no way I could bear the weight of a slider and aux tank as will be right at payload (I weighed the truck on the way home from the dealer and I already weighed the 5er).

...
I don't know how much fuel you consider a "good" amount, but the new Chevy's carry 36 gallons in SB or LB, so there's no SB penalty there, which is nice. While I wish that we get 13MPG towing, I've towed enough to know that realistically I expect us to be in the 9MPG range when towing 15,000 lbs. That gets us 325 miles down the road. Much nicer than our old truck which only held 26 gallons.

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...

Keep on mind I do have a 3791RD which has the 10' storage compartment in the rear that allows me to minimize my pin weight but storing the heavier items at the back of the 5er. I doubt I have 200lbs in the from basement and with a front BR maybe 200lbs of stuff. So my pin weight when weighed (loaded) was 3320lbs which allows me the added fuel so I have 500-800lbs of payload to spare depending on stuff in the truck and the wife.
We have this same exact situation on the 3741FK. I only have about 30lbs of stuff stored in front of the axle. The remaining 970lbs are all behind the axle, most of it in the slide out tray as far behind the axle as possible.

I have weighed our fully loaded 5er, and we are at 2900 lbs pin weight, and we are at 19.6% pin weight to trailer ratio.

Man, I have sliced this thing 10-ways-to-Sunday...
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Old 01-01-2020, 01:28 PM   #80
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IMO whatever you decide on ,the direct fit would be the best ,and most solid. I believe the Superglide has the direct fit to the puck systems on the Gm's. Going with the adapter is still pretty solid four point attachment adapter ,and hitch, but there is that extra piece to deal with.

Back in early 2014 the choices for Ram puck systems were limited, not so now. The adapter made a lot more sense back then. As said if I was starting from scratch, for me it would be the B&W direct fit slider.

After towing three different fifth wheels with two different short bed trucks, and three different hitches over a period of nearly 15 years, for me there would be no need for an auto slider. The rare occasions to use a manual slider its not an issue for me. To be honest I have NEVER used my manual slider away from home, just to back into my driveway.

Got a trip planned for three months in Alaska starting in early June, the Andersen is staying home ,the Reese manual slider is going on that trip I have no idea if one will be needed ,but its there.
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