New Waste Valves and a tour of the underbelly

[prndl]

So I did the thing that was necessary and installed new valterra valves in the gray and black tanks. Only problem was with the little extra tabs for the cable support. They kept getting caught while installing the valves and the bolts and then they leaked. After three trys all is now in place and working.

While I was in the area and had the storage area panels out I noticed that the new valves wanted at least 6" of straight run from the handle before making any turns. When I put the rear panel in it pulled the cable too tight so I cut out a relief for the cables. It is hidden by the white panel surround of the utility area.
http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...&pictureid=215

I also noticed that the furnace was not connected to the plenum anymore. That is why I did not get any heat last time I used it. Montana only used Al tape to hold the connection together. I used screws.
http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...&pictureid=214

[jlb27537]

Originally Posted by prndl

I also noticed that the furnace was not connected to the plenum anymore. That is why I did not get any heat last time I used it. Montana only used Al tape to hold the connection together. I used screws.
http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...&pictureid=214

My '14 was like that first winter we used it. 4 screws in the flange and more tape.

[beeje]

I just installed 3 new Valterra valves in my 3455sa. Since I did not know what length cables I needed I ordered the vavles and cables seperatly. I ordered 3 -96" cables thinking I could cut them to any length needed.

When I got in there I desided to move the galley dump vavle handle to a better location. I moved it from up behind the rear tire (pita to get to) to a unused hole on the middle level up leg in front of the front tire. 96" cable was to short so I had to buy a 120" cable. (kept the 96" for aspare)

For others that are thinking about doing the same thing IF YOU BUY VALVES ONLY, THEY DO NOT COME WITH THE HOUSING THAT CONNECTS THE VAVLES TO THE CABLES.

I had to call Valterra and explain to them my situation and that I could not connect there vavles to there cables without the housing part. They said they do not sell that part seperatly. WTF.

I did manage to get them to send them to me at my cost (35$)

These new valves are SO much easier the open and close (two fingers) as opposed to both hands with all my mite. Plus they are all close to each other now. So much better.

[Bsorge]

Please post a pic of the new galley valve location.

[beeje]

bsorge, I don't have a pic of the location. Even if I did, I would not know how to post it LOL. If you have the level up system, I mounted it in one of the unused holes that the middle leg on the drivers side is mounted to. If you do not have the level up I suppose you could fab up a bracket to mount it somewhere up front near the others.

[Bsorge]

Ok thanks

[Texan]

I know this is an old thread but I didn't see any reason to start a new one. I am installing the valtera valves and these have the tabs on the valve body which the old one did not have. Do the tabs go on the outside of the pipe coupling. The tabs don't seem to be spread far enough out with out breaking them. I can get one side of the tab on but squeezing the factory pipe together so as to run bolt all the way through seems almost impossible. Am I doing something wrong ?

[prndl]

I finally took out the four screws that hold the support section together so I could spread the tabs apart to get them on the outside of the inner and outer flanges then put them back in before tightening the valve flange bolts. One side has a hex recess so it is easy to put the four screws together again blind.
I was so fed up when I did mine in did not think to just loosen the four screws for more spreadability. The valve itself is the same as a non cable valve just the housing with the tabs is the addition.

[Texan]

Thanks for the info. I know the screws you are talking about and I will do that tomorrow. The original valve doesn't have the tabs and is easier to work with. I was afraid I was going to break the tabs trying to spread them apart. It's easy to install with one tab spread buy it leaks because the valve is cockeyed on one side and doesn't bolt down flat.

[Carl n Susan]

Last time we got smart and removed the whole assemble with the tabs. All it does is support the cable and opening of the valve. Then you can slide the new valve into position ensuring the seals don't get screwed up. Put the bolts in the far side of the valve (away from the handle) and get things lined up and into place. We also inserted the near bolts just to make sure everything was cool. Then reassemble the tab mechanism (remember to remove the near bolts if you used them) and bolt everything up. Adjust the cable and you are good to go.

[Texan]

I was able to finally get the black and gray tank valves installed by loosing the 2 screws on the valve body and spreading the tabs. I filled the black tank to 75% and the gray tank to 83% per see level gauges for a couple of hours with no leaks. When draining the gray tank it started leaking so while it was leaking I turned each bolt a couple more rounds and it stopped. I hope this was a permanent correction to the leak as I wasn't going to refill the gray tank. My original valves were working ok but a little tight on the cable. If I had it to do over I would have just left it along. I bought 2 valves with 72'' cables and it works fine with the black tank but I really needed the 96'' cable for the gray tank even though it had a 72'' cable originally. The gray is a little stiffer than the black but it will have to do as I wasn't going to wait for a 96'' cable after I had it tore down This was a project that should have waited until it was really needed. At least now I know how to work on the valves if needed. Now debating on whether to move the galley tank rod away from the rear tire. Ok, I think I can bend down a few more times for that rod.