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Old Today, 08:51 AM   #41
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Join Date: Sep 2016
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M.O.C. #19032
Originally Posted by rohrmann
This can be half right, that there is 240 volts in the RV that isn't used, but there can also be 208 volts, depending on the transformer serving the RV park. So, it really doesn't matter what the hot to hot leg voltage is, so long as the hot legs to ground or neutral is 120 volts.
Full disclosure... I am NOT an electrician by trade but I do have a good working knowledge of the subject.

Interesting sticker... Never seen one on a RV (I'm sure there are many) but when I think about it, it makes perfect sense! The 208Y refers to a 3Ph (Y-tapped) transformer where voltage between any 2 hot legs is 208 volts (vs 240 for normal single phase or a delta tapped transformer).

If I built a new RV park, I would have to consider a 3 phase distribution system as I would have one more hot leg to utilize. This takes into consideration that 99% of RV's do not have a 240V load. Even if someone had a 240V clothes dryer, to would run on 208V just fine, but the amperage would be up a little. In any case all 3 legs to ground would be 120V.

I do have a 50A service in my older Montana, but I did not want to lug the 30' 50A cord around where almost none of the parks we regularly stay at have 50A connections. I did have an extra 30A cord laying around, so what I did was make that up with a 50A female end (camper end) and installed a jumper to feed both hot legs inside of that cord end. Essentially, it's a 30A RV male end and a 50A RV female. Has worked just fine for 2 years now. Of course I realize I cannot run both of my A/C units (opposite legs in the panel when hooked up to 50A) at the same time when I am hooked with my 30A cord.

If you put something like that together, you are getting the same result as the adapter, but the park management would not be aware of what is going on.

If I were the park owner and had some concern with the amount of power being used taxing my system, I would simply replace the 30A breakers with 25's, or even 20's so that people could utilize the 30A configuration, but not tax my system. I would make the customers aware of this, and not charge for 30A if I were not providing it.

Very good discussion here!
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Old Today, 09:42 AM   #42
Denny and Angie Miller
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Mid Missouri
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M.O.C. #19889
Originally Posted by BB_TX View Post
I, for one, am a skeptic. His reasoning just does not make sense to me. I do agree with his statement that if you have a 50 amp rig you should plug into the 50 amp outlet if available. But I know of no reason to do otherwise. Beyond that I do not agree on many things.

A 30 amp outlet is designed to safely and adequately carry 30 amps. And that outlet is protected by a 30 amp breaker to ensure it does not carry more than the rating. And if properly wired should not overheat.

Yes, a 50 amp rig is capable of pulling 3 times more power than a 30 amp rig, IF it is plugged into a 50 amp outlet. But plugged into a 30 amp outlet using an adapter it is limited to 30 amps. Just like a 30 amp rig.

I have no idea why he thinks a 50 amp rig that is limited by a 30 amp breaker is going to “pull down” everyone’s power. And that it is like 3 RVs suddenly plugging in. 30 amps is 30 amps no matter what the RV.

If the park outlet is in poor condition, yes, it can overheat. If the wiring is undersized or improperly wired, it can overheat. If the breaker is poor quality and trips at higher amps than design, it can overheat. But these conditions can exist on a 30 amp RV running at max power.

If I am wrong I certainly welcome anyone to correct my thinking.
Everything you said is correct, but everyone needs to understand that circuit breakers are meant to trip on over current, and don't last forever. Each time a breaker trips it's performance is degraded, and can actually start tripping at a lower or even higher amperage, then the condition can snowball, until the next weakest link in the amperage chain gives...that might be breakers on your rig, or their receptacle. Point is, if enough 50 amp people rely on the park 30 amp breaker to trip, you are actually doing damage to the park equipment however unintentional. I do agree with others in choosing not to spend my $$$ at a park that limits me to 30 amps. As others have pointed out, so many units now have 50 amp connections that RV parks are going to have to upgrade their 30 amp pedestals if they want to stay competitive.
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Old Today, 10:55 AM   #43
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Ridgeville
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M.O.C. #2839
We ask for 50 amps pull through, full hookups when on the road and will not do anything less except in a emergency.This Montana has all the good stuff and we use all of it. We did have to use 30 amps on our way home from Florida as our EMS PT 50C saw low voltage on one leg would not connect to the Montana and there was not another site available.

Most camp ground owners and folks that work there are Not electrical experts. Many C'Gs went out of business because the cost to upgrade electrical and sewer systems were to great.
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Old Today, 03:40 PM   #44
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Surrey
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M.O.C. #10340
Campsite Receptacles

Another reason the campsite receptacle could be "smoked" or discoloured is that campers will plug their power cord into their RV first, then into the campsite receptacle with the breaker in the "ON" position. This can often cause sparking at the plug prongs and receptacle face, neither one a good thing.

I always make sure the circuit breaker is OFF before I plug in my power cord, 30A or 50A. Only when I'm plugged in at both ends do I turn the breaker ON.

Same thing when disconnecting. Turn the breaker OFF first, then disconnect the power cord.
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