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Old 09-20-2018, 10:10 AM   #1
RKassl
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Question about gray tank valve assembly

When we get home shortly I will be trying to track down a leak on the gray tank. For the last two months we have just been letting the gray tank drain right out. Mobil tech found than when the gray tank filled to 2/3 each and every time it leaks from slightly behind the gate valve. He replaced the valve twice and always leaked from behind the valve and between the tank. I saw for the first time how the valve is situated between the tank and the drain pipe. My question is this, the black plastic flange that the gate valve sits next to and is bolted too, can that be replaced if that is where the crack is? Or is the tank considered shot and needs to be replaced?

Thanks
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Old 09-20-2018, 12:46 PM   #2
beeje
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From replacing all my valves and cables last year I can tell you with certainty that the flange between the valve and tank is glued to the tank. I seriously dought it can be replaced. My guess is the tank is cracked.
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Old 09-21-2018, 08:23 AM   #3
RKassl
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Thanks for the info. My tank setup has what looks like a piece of radiator hose coming from the tank with a clamp that seems to hold the flange that hold the valve assembly. Is anyone's trailer setup this way?
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:22 AM   #4
twindman
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I don't think that is a factory setup. Others that have had problems, install some sort of flexible hose to connect so when the tank and/or the drain pipe move a little bit nothing breaks. Also, the tanks are apparently not installed by keystone the way the manufacturer says. There is supposed to be some support underneath and many add this support when they work on the tanks.
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Old 09-21-2018, 01:05 PM   #5
RKassl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twindman View Post
I don't think that is a factory setup. Others that have had problems, install some sort of flexible hose to connect so when the tank and/or the drain pipe move a little bit nothing breaks. Also, the tanks are apparently not installed by keystone the way the manufacturer says. There is supposed to be some support underneath and many add this support when they work on the tanks.
This is direct from the factory I am the only owner.
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Old 09-21-2018, 05:22 PM   #6
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Something is fishy about that rubber fitting from the factory. Can you post a pic of that area.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg camper black tank inside.jpg (189.2 KB, 38 views)
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Old 09-21-2018, 05:23 PM   #7
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Opps that was the wrong pic. This is a pic of the black tank flush
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Old 09-21-2018, 05:31 PM   #8
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camper black and gray tank.jpg

Here is the pic I was looking for
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Old 09-22-2018, 06:04 AM   #9
mazboy
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if you get a dealer to replace it it is a quick $1100 or so.

good luck
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Old 09-22-2018, 09:48 AM   #10
Montana Man
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I would fill the tank and spot the exact location of the leak. It could be any number of issues including an incomple glueing of the black piping. When affecting the repair I would replace those soon to break cable push pull valves with valves that are solid rod actuated valves.
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Old 09-22-2018, 12:48 PM   #11
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When the tank is 2/3 full the water seems to stream out of the area between the valve and the neck of the gray tank. And in regards to the solid valve rods, you are right, 5 visits when our Montana was new for failure of the cable system for the black and gray the dealer converted them both to solid rods, the cable system was useless!
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Old 09-22-2018, 06:33 PM   #12
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I disagree. The cable system works great if they are installed correctly which the factories NEVER do. The cables are supposed to be as short as possible and anchored on both ends within 6" of the valves and anchored every 2 feet or so. I installed all new Valterra valves and cables last year and can open and close with 2 fingers now.
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Old 09-22-2018, 08:10 PM   #13
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It may take meticulous inspection to tell if leaking is from a crack or glued joint. The exact point must be identified as the cost of repair could mean a difference of hundreds of dollars. Interesting problem, pls keep us posted.
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Old 09-23-2018, 12:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beeje View Post
I disagree. The cable system works great if they are installed correctly which the factories NEVER do. The cables are supposed to be as short as possible and anchored on both ends within 6" of the valves and anchored every 2 feet or so. I installed all new Valterra valves and cables last year and can open and close with 2 fingers now.

Please enjoy your cables, I am very happy with the straight rods to both tanks.
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Old 09-24-2018, 06:11 PM   #15
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If I have any more issues with them I will try to go with a solid pull rod. However I do not see how that will work for galley tank.
.
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Old 09-26-2018, 02:02 PM   #16
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I recently repaired a similar leak in my black tank between the valve fitting and tank. I traced the leak to about an inch and a half stress crack in the tank. Someone on this forum mentioned repairing their tank with a product called Plasti-mend. IT is specifically designed to repair ABS tanks and piping. I ordered it and it worked great in making the repair. A business near Okla City, Okla makes and markets it. A repair kit with cleaner, a pint of Plasti-mend , mesh, and two brushes came in the kit for about $40. While I had the trailer bottom opened up, I installed addition support under my tank. This stuff works. Don’t settle for a substitute. Cheaper than paying to have it repaired or tank replaced. Hope this might help. This forum is great.
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Old 09-26-2018, 06:48 PM   #17
lmf580
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Hold It tank repair

There is a product called Plasti-Mend I have used to repair black and gray water tanks. It can be ordered online. Works great, patched my gray water tank 3 yrs ago and no leaks to date.
It is worth a shot rather than replacing the tank.
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