A DIFFERENT SLIDEOUT QUESTION (UPDATE)!!

[jackel1959]

Let me start this thread by saying I am pretty sure this is NOT a CB problem as I have dealt with and fixed that problem on ours other member's rigs.

When our rig was new and we put the slides out, they all 4 went out and when they got to the end of their travel there was an audible "groan" from the pump/motor indicating they had reached the end of their travel.

For the past few months when I put the slides out, they all go out, but sometimes the dining room (biggest) will not go out all the way and stops about 3-4 inches short. The pump never stops running while holding the switch to extend. If I reverse the switch and bring bedroom slide in (which is the first to go out (lightest, I assume)) about half way then extend again I get the groan. Has anyone else experienced this?

While I can get everything to work this way, I am concerned the pump or valve may eventually fail and leave us stranded. Any thoughts

[brenkco]

Jack,
That is interesting. I was just putting out my slides this afternoon and experienced the exact same thing. Perhaps it's because we have the exact same rigs built weeks apart!! I don't think is is circuit breakers either as this acts differently, more of a strain rather than a breaker resetting.

Ken

[Phil P]

Hi

I ran my slides out yesterday in temperatures around 35 degrees.

All slides went out like they always have accept! They didn’t make the normal noises.

The dining room slide has always made noise but it all went out without any of the normal sounds.

When the slides reached their limit I held the switch for a few second like I always do and the sound I got from my pump indicates a low fluid level.

I didn’t check the fluid level yesterday because I had company but I will this morning before thing warm up.

What you describe sounds similar.

I would have a look at the reservoir and see what you fluid level is.

Phil P

[NCFischers]

I would check your fluid level.

[K0LCB]

I checked that my fluid level was full, then checked again with jacks down and slides out. I made a Mark on reservoir so I could see how it looked with all cylinders extended

[racerjoe]

I agree maybe a little low on fluid. Only other thing that it may have a bypass valve getting weak and wont hold the pressure when all slides are at the end of their stroke. But I would go with fluid level first

[Alwims]

Also make sure all the valves are open all the way. Turn the valves off and then back on all the way. Sometimes the seals will dry out and let some fluid leak past which will stop a slide when it gets to the end of it's travel and pressure is built up. I've seen this happen to 2 different 5th wheels in this park.

[jackel1959]

Thanks for the quick replies. Here is a little more info on my issue.

The fluid level is correct and has not been low. That was one of the first things I checked. I actually have marks on the reservoir for retracted and extended and it has not changed since I marked them shortly after we bought the rig 4.5 years ago. When retracted the level is within 1-1 1/2 inches of the fill hole of the reservoir like Lippert recommends. When the slides are extended there is still 2-3 inches of fluid left in the reservoir.

I read one of the LIP Sheets from Lippert that talked about air in the lines and followed their procedure to purge it to no avail.

I have no leaks that I can see and I would think I would be losing fluid if I did. We keep the rig parked at the house on a cement pad, so if it was leaking I think it would be easy to see.

I have turned the individual selector valves closed and open several times. Another thing I didn't mention in my original post is that if I shut off the individual valves and just run the dining room slide out it works fine. Also, if I run all of the slides in and out repeatedly everything will work fine after the first time.

Temperature doesn't seem to be the issue because it does it whether it is warm or cold outside.

I have been thinking the problem is caused by some type of valve getting weak like "racerjoe" suggested, but have no idea on how to check or replace it.

Keep the ideas and advice coming. Thanks!

Jack

[Phil P]

Hi

Mine is low on fluid. I will service it when the slides are in.

Phil P

[racerjoe]

you might have to check with the manufacturer for schematic for this. the bypass could be built into the assembly where your hoses go or it is internal in the pump assembly. I can't answer that. The shifting mechanism might be sticky,atf will get that way, when exposed to air and fine dirt. Maybe get some Lucas or some other brand atf oil treatment and add a little to the res. run in and out to get it into the shifting valve. Or drain it and replace the oil in the reservoir. If they work separately okay, I would look at the fluid itself

[jackel1959]

quote:Originally posted by racerjoe

Maybe get some Lucas or some other brand atf oil treatment and add a little to the res. run in and out to get it into the shifting valve. Or drain it and replace the oil in the reservoir. If they work separately okay, I would look at the fluid itself

Thanks racerjoe. I have read another LIP Sheet #0295 "ADDING ANTI-STICTION FLUID TO LCI HYDRAULIC SYSTEM" where they give a list of additives approved for their systems. I will give this a try and go from there. Thanks again for the advice.

Jack

[Drifty1]

I believe the systems on have fluid on both sides of the cylinder at the same time. So if you have no air in the system your fluid level should not change in the extended or retracted position. But there might be a internal relief that could be reliving before your slide is all the way to the end of the stroke. This could be caused by some restriction on that slide. But if it works fine when you close it with the other slides blocked at the manifold then it could be that every slide has a relief built into it at the manifold. They might do this so it prevents you from damaging a slide when you run them one at a time. Guess I might have to break out the manual to see how they are plumbed.

[rohrmann]

Sure, there is fluid on both sides of the seals of the piston on the rod, but fluid has to displace the volume of the shaft as the slide is extended, and returned to the tank as the slides are retracted. That's why you can only check fluid level with all the hydraulics retracted to avoid overflowing the tank.

[Phil P]

quote:Originally posted by racerjoe

you might have to check with the manufacturer for schematic for this. the bypass could be built into the assembly where your hoses go or it is internal in the pump assembly. I can't answer that. The shifting mechanism might be sticky,atf will get that way, when exposed to air and fine dirt. Maybe get some Lucas or some other brand atf oil treatment and add a little to the res. run in and out to get it into the shifting valve. Or drain it and replace the oil in the reservoir. If they work separately okay, I would look at the fluid itself

Hi

According to the Parker specification sheet for these pumps the pressure relief valve is built into the pump and returns the fluid directly into the inlet of the pump. The fluid that is returned to the reviver is only the excess created when the slides are retracted because of the displacement of the piston rod.

You can hear the pressure relief valve open when the slides reach their limit of travel and you continue to run the pump. Continued running of the pump under this condition will over heat the fluid and cause other problems.

In my case when I opened the slides Thursday morning the temperature was cool enough to have caused the fluid to contract in volume. When the slides reached their limit I heard what sounded like cavitation in the pump with the on and off sound of the relief valve. This was the pump sucking air because of the low fluid level.

When I retract the slides I will check the fluid level and service it as needed.

Phil P

[HOOK]

The slide control valves must be turned completely to the end of travel for proper function. Check for possible inadvertent valve movement. The small knobs in small door where Hyde. Controls are.

[jackel1959]

I know you read my post about the slide problem I have been having. Well yesterday I finally got around to adding “Anti-Stiction” fluid as described in LIP Sheet #0295 "ADDING ANTI-STICTION FLUID TO LCI HYDRAULIC SYSTEM".

I used the “Maxima Fork Oil” displayed in figure 2 of the document. It is “Fork Oil” for motorcycles so I was able to pick it up at a motorcycle shop and got 2 pints. I only got 2 pints because we do not have the Level Up system on our rig and the hydraulic reservoir is much smaller. After adding it, I ran the slides in and out several times to get the additive distributed and mixed. When I was done, I brought the slides back in and let the rig sit overnight. This morning I went out and put the slides out and everything worked as it should have……so I guess time will tell.

The procedure I used is slightly different than what is described in LIP Sheet 0295 because we do not have the level up system. I have outlined what I did below:

1. Wipe/clean the area around the fill cap of the reservoir so as not to contaminate the fluid with dirt and/or debris when you remove the cap.

2. With all the slides retracted, make sure the hydraulic reservoir is full. Lippert recommends ½’ below the top of the reservoir on page 7 of Their Manual . I have mine filled to about 1” below the fill opening because our reservoir is mounted vertically and not horizontally like depicted in the manual and this still leaves about 3” of fluid in the reservoir when the slides are extended. Mark this level on the reservoir with a permanent marker:




3. Extend all the slides fully and mark this level on the reservoir with a permanent marker:


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4. Retract the slides fully once again.

5. I then used a turkey baster to remove the fluid in the reservoir down to the “Slides Extended” line. That ended up being just shy of 2 pints in my case. I also placed rags around the reservoir and on top of the battery box to keep from dripping fluid all over the compartment.

6. I added 1 pint of the of the Fork Oil to the reservoir.

7. Then, using the remote so I could keep an eye on the fluid level to make sure the pump wouldn’t be sucking air, I extended the slides fully again.

8. Then I retracted the slides fully and added the second pint of Fork Oil filling the reservoir to the “Slides Retracted” line and then ran the slides in and out 5 or 6 times to get the fluids mixed.

I am curious to see how this works out over the long term and see if it actually resolves my issue. The entire procedure took less than an hour with the bulk of the time being dedicated to extracting the fluid and running the slides in and out.

Maybe this will help someone out in the future.

Jack

[tsenior]

I also have the 2011 3455SA. My TV/Fireplace slide fails to go out. I've had the valve controller replaced before and thought they fixed the problem. Sometimes it appears the slide wants to ease out while I'm driving. I have another appointment with the dealer next week.

[dieselguy]

tsenior ... I've not seen seals in our hydraulic cylinders so bad that the slide won't move, but that may be your issue. The ones I've had apart are just two opposing lip seals on the piston. Creeping slides usually indicate internal leakage in any cylinder on your unit or leakage in the pump assy. That's assuming there's no oil dripping from your belly pan.

[jackel1959]

tsenior,
When our rig was new we had problems with the slides creeping out while traveling. It ended up being a pump motor assembly. Once that was replaced, no more creeping.

Jack