Gray water valve repair?

[Sweinert]

Gray water valve repair- I have a 2010 Montana 2955RL. The operation of the gray water dump valve is getting harder and harder to operate. Does anyone know of a solution short of cutting open the belly of the trailer and finding the valve itself? Assuming a possible soap buildup on the valve, is there a solution that can be poured down the drain that will dissolve soap residue wherever it may be? I'm sure I am not the first person to have this problem - how have others solved it? If I have to cut open the belly, approximately where would this valve be located?

[rohrmann]

If Thetford Drain Valve Lube does not help, https://www.thetford.com/product/drain-valve-lubricant/, you would be better off just dropping part of the belly at the end where the 3" drain pipe exits the belly, as that is the end where the valves are. You can get replacement valve seals or just replace the entire valve.

[prndl]

Go here: http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...ad.php?t=71955

I did this on my 2955RL last year. Do both valves at the same time also see where I relieved the sharp bends in the new cables behind the wall in the garage.

[beeje]

I replaced all my valves/cables with Valterra valves. Now they operate with one hand easily. You will have no choice but to open up the underbelly to get at them. From 2 were fairly easy. Galley valve a PITA because I moved the pull handle towards the front near the others. I mounted it in one of the spare holes in the middle level up leg.

[daveinaz]

I just replaced ours this weekend.

We discovered on our trip this weekend that the black tank valve (of course, not the gray) wasn't shutting all the way. (The PO didn't use it very often since they were living in it.) We're parked there at the campsite and "drip, drip, drip" from the drain outlet. Ugh. So, we left a little early. Got to the dump station and when I pulled off the cap,.. well, you can imagine. Pretty gross.

I got home and pulled the cloroplast to get to the valves. Of course, what should have been a simple job wasn't. The way Keystone plumbed that thing, there was NO way to get any slack in the drain pipes to get the old valve out. The gray tank is to the front and it has only a short run of pipe to its valve, then a shorter run to the Y fitting, then short run to the black valve, then a short run to the black tank. I tried prying the flanges apart after I'd taken out the bolts holding the valve on but I couldn't get more than 1/4" of slack -- and that was with exerting a good deal of pressure, enough to clear one side of the valve but not both sides. I didn't want to put too much pressure on it for fear of cracking the outlet on the tanks. After fiddling with it for 30 minutes or so, I said, forget it, got my sawzall, and cut out a 1/2" section of the 3" pipe between the black tank and the valve. At that point, I may as well replace both of the valves. There was a huge chunk of solidified gunk about the size of a tennis ball stuck in the pipe between the black valve and the Y fitting. Got a screwdriver and broke it up to get it out. Once the pipe was cut, installing the valves was easy. Then I put one of those rubber coupler sleeves and sealed up the area I'd cut.

But if you're replacing one, you may as well replace the other while you're at it. I used plumbers grease on the seals. I also had to replace the handle extensions since they were all bent up and binding on the pass through holes. I think the PO like to pull UP and out instead of just out with them.

But the new valves work great! Hopefully I won't have to do that stinky job again for a long time.

[beeje]

You are exactly right. I messed with it for a few minutes before I sawzalled the 3" pipe. I used a rubber fernco fitting the put it back together. Now it can be taken apart in the future easily.

[barryn]

EZ valves......