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03-22-2018, 01:43 PM
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#1
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Established Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: ElDorado
Posts: 11
M.O.C. #21419
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Furnace removal
I have a 2011 Montana 3665 RE camper. We took it out through spring break, still cool out, and experienced some problems with the furnace. The fan will run, but the furnace never lights. We purged the propane system through the stove burners and hit the re-set in the furnace itself, still will not light. I have 2 questions, do I need to remove the furnace (vertical unit), and are there some instructions available for removal.
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03-22-2018, 02:59 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Carmichael - CA
Posts: 7,315
M.O.C. #4831
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Before you start tearing things apart, read the Furnace Diagnostic PDF here in the Files section (Here). There are LEDs on the furnace which should identify the problem. From your description I would suspect the "Sail Switch". But follow the diagnostic instructions to be sure.
__________________
Carl (n Susan)
There is more to life than fuel mileage.
2012 Montana 3700RL Big Sky Package towed by a 2015 Ford F350 6.7L PSD 4WD CC LWB
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03-23-2018, 10:16 AM
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#3
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Established Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: ElDorado
Posts: 11
M.O.C. #21419
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Thanks, I think I'm on the right track.
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03-23-2018, 02:57 PM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: West Richland
Posts: 1,253
M.O.C. #17164
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On my Arctic Fox camper I ended up having to replace the motherboard. It really wasn't to hard to work on other than the locations they are usually installed in. Good luck as I like my heater especially when springtime camping in the mountains.
Tom Marty
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03-23-2018, 04:07 PM
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#5
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Established Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: ElDorado
Posts: 11
M.O.C. #21419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carl n susan
Before you start tearing things apart, read the Furnace Diagnostic PDF here in the Files section (Here). There are LEDs on the furnace which should identify the problem. From your description I would suspect the "Sail Switch". But follow the diagnostic instructions to be sure.
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One flash every 3 seconds tells me the limit switch is a possibility. I have the furnace removed, now just to find where the switch is located (google ought to do it). I should have this thing pumping warm air by no later than June. Haha!
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03-24-2018, 08:40 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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Your furnace manual should also depict where the part is.
__________________
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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03-30-2018, 04:57 PM
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#7
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Established Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: ElDorado
Posts: 11
M.O.C. #21419
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Found a guy that would bench test the furnace for 10 bucks, turns out the circuit board was fried. $175.00 for that part, and we're back together...for now.
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03-30-2018, 08:29 PM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: West Richland
Posts: 1,253
M.O.C. #17164
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Bill your last post sounds real familiar. Seems like a lot of electronics are designed to just replace boards to fix issues verse actually replacing individual components.
Glad the mystery is solved. I like reliable heat in my unit.
Tom Marty
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03-31-2018, 03:40 PM
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#9
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Established Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: ElDorado
Posts: 11
M.O.C. #21419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dam Worker
Bill your last post sounds real familiar. Seems like a lot of electronics are designed to just replace boards to fix issues verse actually replacing individual components.
Glad the mystery is solved. I like reliable heat in my unit.
Tom Marty
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I agree Tom. We had a circuit board in the fridge go out last summer, along with the 120V to 12V converter. Expensive plug and go components.
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04-01-2018, 08:01 AM
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#10
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Established Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: johnstown
Posts: 46
M.O.C. #21280
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this was my experience with similar problem on 2011 HC: the fan would run, i could here the electric piezo sparking but the furnace would not ignite, i removed the outside cover and looked in to see dead mud dobbers in side, after further investigation i saw and removed a nest the size of a golf, the nest was apparently blocking the air flow and would not allow the correct mixture of air and propane thus the spark would not allow ignition. after cleaning out the heater and re assembling the unit fired right up. learned that bees are attracted to the smell of propane, i then put a screen over the entrance to prevent future occurrences.
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04-06-2018, 06:19 AM
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#11
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Established Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: newton
Posts: 35
M.O.C. #19410
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my furnace is blowing soot and sounds like I have an airflow issue. I suspect a mud dabbers nest is inside the exhaust tube out of site and out of reach.
can anyone recommend how to ensure the exhaust tube is free and clear?
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04-06-2018, 07:20 AM
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#12
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: West Melbourne
Posts: 310
M.O.C. #18980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KIEHLS
my furnace is blowing soot and sounds like I have an airflow issue. I suspect a mud dabbers nest is inside the exhaust tube out of site and out of reach.
can anyone recommend how to ensure the exhaust tube is free and clear?
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Look at this bug screen.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Protect.../dp/B00192JFBI
__________________
Butch and Kathy
2016 3160RL Legacy, Sailun S637, Centramatic Balancers, 2-T105s, Amish Refrigeration, ARPrv, SoftStartRV, FlexArmor roof
2016 F350 6.7L SRW
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