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Old 03-22-2018, 01:43 PM   #1
bill-d-c
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Furnace removal

I have a 2011 Montana 3665 RE camper. We took it out through spring break, still cool out, and experienced some problems with the furnace. The fan will run, but the furnace never lights. We purged the propane system through the stove burners and hit the re-set in the furnace itself, still will not light. I have 2 questions, do I need to remove the furnace (vertical unit), and are there some instructions available for removal.
 
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Old 03-22-2018, 02:59 PM   #2
Carl n Susan
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Before you start tearing things apart, read the Furnace Diagnostic PDF here in the Files section (Here). There are LEDs on the furnace which should identify the problem. From your description I would suspect the "Sail Switch". But follow the diagnostic instructions to be sure.
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Old 03-23-2018, 10:16 AM   #3
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Thanks, I think I'm on the right track.
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Old 03-23-2018, 02:57 PM   #4
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On my Arctic Fox camper I ended up having to replace the motherboard. It really wasn't to hard to work on other than the locations they are usually installed in. Good luck as I like my heater especially when springtime camping in the mountains.

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Old 03-23-2018, 04:07 PM   #5
bill-d-c
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Originally Posted by carl n susan View Post
Before you start tearing things apart, read the Furnace Diagnostic PDF here in the Files section (Here). There are LEDs on the furnace which should identify the problem. From your description I would suspect the "Sail Switch". But follow the diagnostic instructions to be sure.
One flash every 3 seconds tells me the limit switch is a possibility. I have the furnace removed, now just to find where the switch is located (google ought to do it). I should have this thing pumping warm air by no later than June. Haha!
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Old 03-24-2018, 08:40 AM   #6
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Your furnace manual should also depict where the part is.
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Old 03-30-2018, 04:57 PM   #7
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Found a guy that would bench test the furnace for 10 bucks, turns out the circuit board was fried. $175.00 for that part, and we're back together...for now.
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Old 03-30-2018, 08:29 PM   #8
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Bill your last post sounds real familiar. Seems like a lot of electronics are designed to just replace boards to fix issues verse actually replacing individual components.
Glad the mystery is solved. I like reliable heat in my unit.

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Old 03-31-2018, 03:40 PM   #9
bill-d-c
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Originally Posted by Dam Worker View Post
Bill your last post sounds real familiar. Seems like a lot of electronics are designed to just replace boards to fix issues verse actually replacing individual components.
Glad the mystery is solved. I like reliable heat in my unit.

Tom Marty
I agree Tom. We had a circuit board in the fridge go out last summer, along with the 120V to 12V converter. Expensive plug and go components.
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Old 04-01-2018, 08:01 AM   #10
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this was my experience with similar problem on 2011 HC: the fan would run, i could here the electric piezo sparking but the furnace would not ignite, i removed the outside cover and looked in to see dead mud dobbers in side, after further investigation i saw and removed a nest the size of a golf, the nest was apparently blocking the air flow and would not allow the correct mixture of air and propane thus the spark would not allow ignition. after cleaning out the heater and re assembling the unit fired right up. learned that bees are attracted to the smell of propane, i then put a screen over the entrance to prevent future occurrences.
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Old 04-06-2018, 06:19 AM   #11
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my furnace is blowing soot and sounds like I have an airflow issue. I suspect a mud dabbers nest is inside the exhaust tube out of site and out of reach.

can anyone recommend how to ensure the exhaust tube is free and clear?
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Old 04-06-2018, 07:20 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by KIEHLS View Post
my furnace is blowing soot and sounds like I have an airflow issue. I suspect a mud dabbers nest is inside the exhaust tube out of site and out of reach.

can anyone recommend how to ensure the exhaust tube is free and clear?
Look at this bug screen.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Protect.../dp/B00192JFBI
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