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Old 01-18-2014, 02:21 PM   #1
DonandBonnie
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Wall sconces....Why the difference?

In our 3700RL we have three wall sconces in the living area. The two above the chairs are 12v. The one between the sofa and dining area is 110v. Just out of curiosity, why the difference?
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Old 01-18-2014, 02:37 PM   #2
dieselguy
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Perhaps they didn't plan a 12V wire run between your sofa and dining area in your particular floorplan..
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Old 01-18-2014, 03:22 PM   #3
DonandBonnie
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That's a thought, but the ceiling lights and under cabinet lights above the sofa and dining table are all 12v.
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Old 01-18-2014, 03:25 PM   #4
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Maybe it's because they wanted to guarantee 12v light no matter if one is boondocking. Then if on shore power the additional 110v could be used by itself and provide enough light.

One thing that always intrigued me about our rig is the amount of light fixtures of either type. But when I look around the light is mostly set up so that it maximizes the area with 12v coverage, but then if on shore power the 110v lighting has good coverage. In our floorplan there is 2 wall sconces on either side of the reclining chairs, two overhead 12v, one each overhead under the overhanging cabinets and one 12v sconce at the desk. Then there is only the one overhead 110v with the ceiling fan. So if only on 12v and no shore power there will be plenty of lights.
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Old 01-18-2014, 03:40 PM   #5
rohrmann
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On our 2012 3402, we have the same wall sconce layout, but the ceiling fixtures above the sofa and dining table are different, one is 12V and the other is 120V. None of this makes any sense, but we just deal with it.
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:33 PM   #6
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I asked that exact question at last fall's rally and was told what others have already suspected. If you look below the 120v wall sconce, you will find a 120V outlet. Basically, Keystone uses whatever voltage is available, as opposed to running the extra wiring to make all of the sconces 12 volt. Honest, that's what they told me.
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Old 01-18-2014, 11:08 PM   #7
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I completely believe you, Tom S. I've mostly just dealt with the sometimes weirdness I've found that I keep thinking that there must be some kind of logic that I just can't quite get while poking around in our Monty. Someone back a few months ago posted a similar answer about a different thing, so every time I run into something like this, it's what I go with. (Still can't figure out why they ran that expensive 50 amp power cable all the way to the back of the coach instead of somewhere sane though.)
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:44 AM   #8
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Actually it is logical. Every little bit of time and wire saved adds up to a heck of a lot of money spread out over all the rigs they make in a year. Usually when we are upset by something they did or the type of parts they used the answer always comes back to it, saved them money. In reality they are only building them to make money and the more they can make and still get us to buy one the better off their bottom line is. Kind of the same way the Royal's only spend enough money on ballplayers to fill the seats and never enough to win anything.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:08 AM   #9
Phil P
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Hi

I find it more logical to provide shore power lights in the event your 12v power fails.

Think about it if your battery charger quits working and you are unable to get to a source of replacement for a few days at least you can still use the trailer on shore power. The only thing you would be without that could be very detrimental would be your furnace.

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Old 01-19-2014, 10:29 AM   #10
mhs4771
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Are you sure the fridge doesn't need 12V for it's control board?
No matter what, all our lites are 12V LEDs thanks to Michael and Kat.
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:18 PM   #11
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I think you are right mhs4771... the fridge control board is always 12V (either off the battery when boondocking or the converter when on shore power). The compressor unit heating unit to create the coldness is what is either controlled by propane or 110v, all of which is controlled by the control board running on 12v. I believe the furnace is only on 12v (and propane), no 110v needed.
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:37 AM   #12
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Hi

Mhs4771

Before the Montana we hi-Lo trailer. It had a much smaller 12 /110 refrigerator in it. When it was just 10 years old it quit working. When I replaced it I disassembled the old one to find out how it worked. The coils had corroded until the ammonia and water leaked. The 110V side had a transformer and solid state rectifier bridge to operate the unit.

I havenít messed with the refrigerator in the Montana because it is working and my ďif isnít broke donít fix itĒ philosophy keeps me away from it. LOL

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Old 01-20-2014, 03:57 AM   #13
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For the fridge to operate on gas when you aren't plugged in it has to us 12v for the control board.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:20 AM   #14
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As Walt mentioned, why did Keystone put the shore power connector in the very back when it requires the manufacturer to double the electrical run internally in the belly of the beast to connect to the converter and circuit breakers for all the monty 110v outlets? Having one on the side would make a lot more sense and sounds like a future project for me. WARNING!! If someone out there does this or has done it...and kept the original one intact/live on the back; make sure to insert a dummy plug in the unused one to eliminate any shock hazard. John
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:33 PM   #15
Tom S.
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by jcurtis934

As Walt mentioned, why did Keystone put the shore power connector in the very back when it requires the manufacturer to double the electrical run internally in the belly of the beast to connect to the converter and circuit breakers for all the monty 110v outlets? Having one on the side would make a lot more sense and sounds like a future project for me. WARNING!! If someone out there does this or has done it...and kept the original one intact/live on the back; make sure to insert a dummy plug in the unused one to eliminate any shock hazard. John
I can think of a few reasons they put the plug where they did, and most deal with the slides. Think about it for a minute, the walls on these units are too small for the receptacle, requiring it be placed somewhere that has space behind it. Mounting it in a slide isn't practical because you don't want to flex the cord a lot because copper is work hardening, meaning you bend it a few times, it gets brittle and breaks. The space between the slides, as I pointed out are pretty thin. If you lowered the receptacle, so the wire behind it runs under the floor (like it does where it is currently mounted), you'd have to mount it in that flimsy aluminum sheeting, which would flex and bend every time you plugged in or unplugged. Both of these obstacles may be overcome, depending on the unit, if you could find a spot between the slides that had a hollow place behind it deep enough for the plug and wire that comes out of it, but it would have to be done differently on each model.

Mounting it in the front would be an option, but up there, the plug would be subjected to a continuous bath, and therefore corrosion, when you were pulling in the rain, just asking for trouble.

In summation, I believe they put it in the back because it was the path of least resistance (electricians like Jim and Country Guy, please excuse the pun ) for manufacturing purposes.
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