|
08-12-2008, 05:01 AM
|
#1
|
Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fulltiming
Posts: 347
M.O.C. #5508
|
Anode Rod replacement
Went to check on my anode rod and noticed the bolt is covered with rust. I haven't tryed to remove yet as I'm concerned about strippign the threads in the water heater. This will be the second time I've replaced my rod. I didn't have the problem the first time.
Any suggestions on removal? Can I spray the bolt with WD40 or something to help with removal? Thx
|
|
|
08-12-2008, 07:06 AM
|
#2
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Leona
Posts: 6,382
M.O.C. #2059
|
That is probably just surface rust. When I removed mine, the threads that were rusted were outside, not inside the water heater.
|
|
|
08-12-2008, 08:04 AM
|
#3
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 5,316
M.O.C. #15
|
Army Guy,
By all means you can use the WD 40 or something similar. Apply a day or so before you try removing. And as Stiles said it is probably just surface rust. Give the bolt a try before you apply the WD 40. It might just come right off.
Good luck.
HamRad
|
|
|
08-12-2008, 08:17 AM
|
#4
|
Established Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Rancho Cucamonga
Posts: 25
M.O.C. #8260
|
Make sure you use anti sieze compound on the threads when installing a new rod or even when reinstalling an old one. Tim.
|
|
|
08-12-2008, 08:38 AM
|
#5
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 4,876
M.O.C. #1944
|
Use teflon plumber's tape on the threads when reinstalling.
Orv
|
|
|
08-12-2008, 10:07 AM
|
#6
|
Montana Master
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Weeki Wachee
Posts: 814
M.O.C. #7219
|
Try a small wire brush on the anode rod head. It will tell you quickly how deep the rust is. I seriously doubt that the rust is more than surface rust.
Hugh
|
|
|
08-12-2008, 10:17 AM
|
#7
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Clearwater
Posts: 10,917
M.O.C. #420
|
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by ols1932
Use teflon plumber's tape on the threads when reinstalling.
Orv
|
DITTO. Using teflon tape will also help keep the threads from rusting.
|
|
|
08-12-2008, 03:45 PM
|
#8
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: cedar rapids
Posts: 703
M.O.C. #4962
|
If you have a six point socket use it as a twelve point will strip or round the head of the rod. Teflon tape is best but the anti-seize will work also.
|
|
|
08-12-2008, 04:27 PM
|
#9
|
Site Team
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Omaha
Posts: 6,759
M.O.C. #7560
|
I'm with the teflon tape bunch on this one! Mine is rusted but it is just on the outside and not the inner threads at all (teflon tape on the threads). The six point socket is a good idea and don't use a cheater bar if it doesn't break loose on the first try. Come to think of it, I think I need a new anode rod myself. I'm thinking of the one with the pitcock on it this time. Anyone had experience with that one? Maybe I should use a new thread for that. Administrator- if needed let me know, OK? OK!
|
|
|
08-12-2008, 04:31 PM
|
#10
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Wappingers Falls
Posts: 1,303
M.O.C. #6263
|
I use teflon tape first, then apply a teflon dope over that, just a light film of it...this is like doing double insurance to make sure it doesn't leak as well as always come out later.
|
|
|
08-12-2008, 11:31 PM
|
#11
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: South Shore
Posts: 6,009
M.O.C. #7110
|
I doubt that the threads in the water heater would be that easy to strip. I've never had a problem with that and I've placed a cheater bar on a wrench to break it loose before. I'm not saying that it couldn't happen just that I think it would be unlikely. I also noticed you didn't mention how long it had been since it had been changed. I try and change ours at least once a year. I've noticed the anode rod seems to deteriorate rather quickly.
__________________
2011 GMC 4X4 dually CC, 6.6 Duramax with Allison Transmission. Formally 2001 Montana,2007 3400RL Montana, presently 2018 3401RS Alpine.
|
|
|
08-13-2008, 05:41 AM
|
#12
|
Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fulltiming
Posts: 347
M.O.C. #5508
|
Thanks for all the good info. I have to get another rod before I take this one off. Even if I don't need it, I'll have one in my spare parts kit.
|
|
|
08-20-2008, 07:12 AM
|
#13
|
Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Highlands Ranch
Posts: 464
M.O.C. #3477
|
The bolt end of that rod has a steel head unpainted, so it runsts easily. I wouldn't eorry about it. I always carry a spare. Flush my water heater midseason too. Bought one of those little flush wands at CW. Could make something that would do the job very easily as well. Teflon tape here too; nothing else necessary.
|
|
|
08-20-2008, 07:25 AM
|
#14
|
Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Land O Lakes
Posts: 2,751
M.O.C. #7753
|
The rods are only 11.99 at CW, we stopped at the brand new CW in Madison Wisconsin on monday and I checked out the prices.. Dave
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
Similar Threads
|
Thread |
Thread Starter |
Forum |
Replies |
Last Post |
Anode rod
|
oldelmer1 |
Maintenance |
9 |
07-26-2013 05:38 AM |
Anode?
|
bobsals |
General Discussions about our Montanas |
3 |
04-16-2013 07:24 PM |
HELP no hot water, anode need replacement question
|
kegger5769 |
Repairs & Service |
8 |
01-16-2010 12:37 AM |
Anode Rod
|
jackandh2o |
Maintenance |
24 |
04-07-2008 06:17 AM |
Anode Rod
|
lawrenceb42106 |
Montana Problems, Problem Solving & Technical Help |
0 |
02-23-2003 03:44 PM |
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|