Chlorinating fresh water system - Montana Owners Club

Jdrobone · 09-09-2015, 03:45 AM

On my old 3400FL when I wanted to sanitize the fresh water system I just put a cup of bleach in the external tank access and the filled the tank, ran it through the piping and then ran some fresh water behind it. My new front living coach has no external access except for normal street hookup. How's the best way to do this-here job?

rmthelen · 09-09-2015, 04:55 AM

You could pour sanitizer in your hose, position tank fill valve to fill tank. Then hook hose to connection and fill fresh water tank to desired level. Then you could proceed as normal.

cw3jason · 09-09-2015, 05:01 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by rmthelen

You could pour sanitizer in your hose, position tank fill valve to fill tank. Then hook hose to connection and fill fresh water tank to desired level. Then you could proceed as normal.

Yes this as above! Another method is to find your fresh tank overflow/ vent. pop the cover off and dump the sanitizer into the tank that way. mine is on the back wall of the trailer and the cover pops off by pushing up.

bullroc3 · 09-09-2015, 05:18 AM

Did not know this. Would this also be the way to fill the fresh water tank with a hose?

dieselguy · 09-09-2015, 05:29 AM

In a pinch you could use the vent line to put water in the tank, but in my opinion ... it's asking for trouble. There is little to no way for air to escape while filling this way (unless you burp it every 30 sec or so), so you could make a big buldge in the floor along with a big headache to make things right again. I looked at a SOB that the vent line had been wire tied back over itself during manufacturing ... the owner had tried to fill his FW tank via the convenience center connection and had his main flooring bow up inside. I had to pass on needed repairs.

K0LCB · 09-09-2015, 08:43 AM

I have a whole house filter. I remove filter cartridge, add 1 cup of Clorox to empty housing, fill with water, and then put water in drinking tank

bullroc3 · 09-09-2015, 09:15 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by dieselguy

In a pinch you could use the vent line to put water in the tank, but in my opinion ... it's asking for trouble. There is little to no way for air to escape while filling this way (unless you burp it every 30 sec or so), so you could make a big buldge in the floor along with a big headache to make things right again. I looked at a SOB that the vent line had been wire tied back over itself during manufacturing ... the owner had tried to fill his FW tank via the convenience center connection and had his main flooring bow up inside. I had to pass on needed repairs.

Opps!!! Got ya. This would be just a vent line. OK. Again, I have never removed the cover to check.

kdeiss · 09-09-2015, 01:26 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by K0LCB

I have a whole house filter. I remove filter cartridge, add 1 cup of Clorox to empty housing, fill with water, and then put water in drinking tank

Kolcb that is great Idea!

Recumbent · 09-09-2015, 07:44 PM

Here is one more way to do this job. Took our freshwater vent cover off yesterday just to see how it was made. It pops straight up when pressure is applied from the bottom. I removed the small amount of silicone that was stuck on the side wall at vent cover edge with a micro fiber towel along with bug & tar remover. There is a screen in the face of the vent tube that can be easily pulled out. Now you can use a funnel or water bottle pour in your bleach. After bleach is down the tube replace the screen, snap the vent cover back down over the vent tube face and do a fresh water fill from the convenience center as usual.

dieselguy · 09-10-2015, 02:58 AM

I think that was what Jason said he does 6 replies up. That's what got the vent line discussion started.

Jdrobone · 09-10-2015, 02:59 AM

Thank you all!

mjammersc · 09-10-2015, 06:44 AM

The vent line approach is what the latest Keystone manual recommends

drknapp · 09-10-2015, 08:39 AM

Quick Question, can you use the winterizing set up on a Montana to suck a chlorine/water solution into the tank to sterilize it?

Mark N. · 09-10-2015, 06:46 PM

A good time to offer a tip: Go to a pool/spa supply store and get some sodium dichlor. It's a powder. Much easier to use than bleach, much less destructive to plastic, much more available chlorine than bleach. Just add the powder to your hose before filling and use just 1 teaspoon per tank to sanitize then flush as usual. Much easier to carry in a small container than bleach.
This is the stuff I use to keep my hot tub sanitized. I've been done with using stinky bleach for 10 years now. I sanitize my RV tank about 4 times a year using this quick and easy method. This is the stuff I use to keep my hot tub sanitized. I've been done with using stinky bleach for 10 years now. I sanitize my RV tank about 4 times a year using this quick and easy method.

uhftx · 09-11-2015, 01:38 AM

Quick answer is no. The winterizing port will only sanitize your water lines above the tank and the water pump. Not the holding tank.
You have to get the sanitizer into the holding tank and then use the pump to move the sanitized water through the Hot and Cold water lines for each faucet. Dont forget to do the washer water hookup. Those lines can trap/contain bacteria as well as a shower.

I generally do this during the unwinterizing process and allow the sanitized water to sit in the lines for 24hrs prior to flushing out the system. Drain and flush the remainder of sanitized water in the holding tank via the low point drain. Then flush the tank with fresh water. You can then use the street pressure side to flush out the lines. There will be a small amount of sanitizing water on the input and output side of your water pump which is easily removed by pumping clean fresh water through the kitchen sink.

If you choose to sanitize the hot water heater remember it is about 10 gallons of extra sanitize and flush water.

I like the idea above about the alternative powdered sanitizer above.
I normally go by smell of the water to evacuate the bleach though.

Does the product mentioned have a distinct odor?

Powdered pool cholorine which I already have will leave this odor also. I'll just have to figure out the proportion to use.

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by drknapp

Quick Question, can you use the winterizing set up on a Montana to suck a chlorine/water solution into the tank to sterilize it?

jfaberna · 09-11-2015, 05:46 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by drknapp

Quick Question, can you use the winterizing set up on a Montana to suck a chlorine/water solution into the tank to sterilize it?

While you can use the winterizing port to pump water to the holding tank by turning the power fill valve also, I'd not recommend it because it took 1 hour just to get 10 gallons in. I think I'll use the method of just putting 1 cup of bleach in the hose or filter housing and set the power fill option from the city water port.

dieselguy · 09-11-2015, 06:28 AM

Aside from all the discussion here ... unless you flat don't have access to a city water hookup ... it's super easy to just pour a cup of clorox or what ever you prefer down the male end of your water hose and hook it back on to the fresh water port and set it for fill. Your hose will easily take on a cup of fluid then some.

baybum10 · 09-11-2015, 05:01 PM

I've noticed several posts suggesting sanitizing the hot water heater. I flush the heater with a wand, but I thought it was self sanitizing when it heats up. Is there a need to further treat the tank?

Mark N. · 09-11-2015, 05:55 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by baybum10

I've noticed several posts suggesting sanitizing the hot water heater. I flush the heater with a wand, but I thought it was self sanitizing when it heats up. Is there a need to further treat the tank?

The temperature to kill most (not all) pathogens is 165 degrees, Our water heaters don't get that hot. I still run the treated water into the water heater.

baybum10 · 09-13-2015, 04:50 PM

Thanks Mark N. I'll add the water heater to my check list.

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