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Old 10-18-2004, 01:06 PM   #1
BillyRay
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2 problems found while winterizing

while winterizing this year, found two problems...

1st...while pushing in the gizmo in the city water line connection, the guts blew out. I did have the pump on at the time, maybee that was the problem.unable to repack it, good job for the dealer I guess.

2nd...while winterizing the washer/dryer antifreeze overflowed into closet. upon inspection, it seems as though the pvc drain line doesn't connect to a holding tank. I believe the water goes straight out to the city sewer connection. when I went outside and took the cap off the city connection everything flowed fine. I find it hard to believe this doesn't drain into a holding tank!

we did custom order this unit and it had the washer/dryer prep package and came new to us with the washer already installed.

this problem is a first for me, but everytime in the past that I used the washer, it was hooked up to the city connection.I was always led to believe that you would be able to use the w/d while dry camping.
 
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Old 10-18-2004, 01:25 PM   #2
GordonR
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BillyRay, I had the same city water fill problem last year on my Cougar, but got it back together OK. However, I'm wondering if it's necessary to winterize that section of the lines. I'd intuitively think so, but there's nothing in the book about it - and the bypass kits only put antifreeze downstream of the pump. Maybe someone who has experience both ways will let us know. No comment on #2. I don't have a washer.
Gordon
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Old 10-18-2004, 01:40 PM   #3
DrivesBGM
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I put an adapter on the city water connection and blow the line out with compressed air. Winterizing this way I don't have to remove the one-way valve. (I still use the winterizing tube before the water pump to put antifreeze in the lines after blowing out the city water connection.)

Craig
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Old 10-18-2004, 01:48 PM   #4
BillyRay
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I thought of that after the fact...it's always after! never before.I'm thinking if there were no pressure on it (pump was turned on) it may have been ok.
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Old 10-18-2004, 05:46 PM   #5
RnR
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Hi Billy Ray,
Next time you winterize, before you push in the "gizmo" in the city water line connection, go back in the trailer and open up a cold water faucet to release the pressure. Once the pressure is released then you can press the "gizmo" without it blowing the "guts" out.
I believe the "guts and gizmos" are called the check valve or back flow diverter. :
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Old 10-18-2004, 09:33 PM   #6
BillyRay
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thank you, I do like the technical guts and gizmo terms! it's always got to be after you goof it up to learn doesn't it!
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Old 10-19-2004, 01:21 AM   #7
GordonR
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Ouch! I can't believe how simple the answer really is. Now that you mention it, I think I've seen those adapters at Wally World. Thanks, Craig.
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Old 10-19-2004, 01:53 AM   #8
kdeiss
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BillyRay,It is easy to replace the city water bib. I think it is about $40.00. Or you can just buy the hose fitting as a separate item and with a little cutting you can mount in the bib. I think about $7.00.This is what I did.
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Old 10-19-2004, 02:12 AM   #9
mazeeff
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I must be missing something here! What "gizmo" and "guts" are we talking about?
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Old 10-19-2004, 08:04 AM   #10
kdeiss
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Back pressure valve in the city water fill. If you look you can see it.
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Old 10-19-2004, 05:27 PM   #11
sreigle
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GordonR, the manual for our washer says put a cup of antifreeze in the tub and run the drain/spin cycle for 20 (30?) seconds. The one winter we had the washer but were not fulltiming that's what I did.

I also asked our Montana dealer about antifreeze in the washer supply lines and he said just disconnect the hoses and don't worry about it. I left the valves open just in case. We had temperatures in the single digits and no problems with the washer.
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Old 10-20-2004, 04:21 AM   #12
BillyRay
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just a quick update, just spoke to Craig at keystone...he said he thinks the factory goofed up building my unit and said the washer/dryer drain should be hooked to the grey water holding tank, but sounds like it's not.will have the dealer check it and we'll see.
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Old 10-20-2004, 01:18 PM   #13
gary/sharon
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Ok - I also messed up my check valve while winterizing. I couldn't see a way of removing it from the plastic housing. Does anyone know how to remove it to fix it or replace it??

Thanks...............
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Old 10-20-2004, 01:32 PM   #14
BillyRay
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no I don't, but seeing as I goofed up, I'm not the one to give the advice.

I would like to know for next year how to do it the correct way. am I correct to say that if I did it with no pressure on it then what I did wouldn't have happened?if so I'll guarentee it won't happen again!
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Old 10-20-2004, 03:30 PM   #15
kdeiss
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Guys,You need be carefull and cut it out than buy the replacement with the plastic bib not brass and you will need to trim the replacement and mount with 2 screws. It will take a little finesse.
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Old 10-20-2004, 05:03 PM   #16
BillyRay
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I dropped at the dealer, that's as close as it gets!
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Old 10-20-2004, 07:29 PM   #17
sreigle
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Gary, I messed ours up on our old Wilderness fifthwheel years ago when I didn't release the pressure when winterizing. I ended up replacing the whole water inlet unit. Couldn't find just the parts for the city water inlet valve. It's not too difficult to replace the whole thing if you can get to it from the inside. You have to disconnect the hoses.

What may have happened on yours is the o-ring got knocked out of place. Once I was able to work the o-ring back into place and the valve worked fine.
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Old 10-21-2004, 01:15 AM   #18
gary/sharon
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I think I will wait until spring when I am pumping water - not antifreeze and see if I can get the check valve to work. I hate to replace the hole assembly when it is probably just something out of place in the valve.

thanks........
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Old 10-21-2004, 02:53 AM   #19
BillyRay
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I'm sure the dealer will do a fine job.
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