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Old 11-07-2018, 08:48 PM   #1
Home away from home
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window caulk around rubber window casings

just wondering what window caulk you guys use that is black or a brown to seal the rubber that that holds the window glass/frame and is part of the rubber gasket for the window rough opening in the trailer wall. as mine is a 2013 and the caulk is starting to crack and breakaway and is this a fairly easy job to do all the way around the trailer?

2013 3100 rl Montana ( sorry almost forgot to list what it is)
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Old 11-07-2018, 09:08 PM   #2
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What you are seeing is the squeezed out butyl caulk tape drying out. Over time, I developed leaks on three of our windows, not from the cracking where it squeezed out and dried, but where the butyl caulking had shrunk, leaving a microscopic separation between the window frame and the wall of the trailer or slide wall. What I did was, using a plastic putty knife, removed all the dried caulking from around the window frames and used black silicone caulk to run a bead all the way around all the windows. Haven't had a leak since. I figured, yes, maybe the proper way would be to remove the windows and install new butyl caulk tape and re-install the windows, but eventually the new tape would do the same thing as the old tape and I would be dealing with leaks again in the future.
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Old 11-08-2018, 06:57 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
What you are seeing is the squeezed out butyl caulk tape drying out. Over time, I developed leaks on three of our windows, not from the cracking where it squeezed out and dried, but where the butyl caulking had shrunk, leaving a microscopic separation between the window frame and the wall of the trailer or slide wall. What I did was, using a plastic putty knife, removed all the dried caulking from around the window frames and used black silicone caulk to run a bead all the way around all the windows. Haven't had a leak since. I figured, yes, maybe the proper way would be to remove the windows and install new butyl caulk tape and re-install the windows, but eventually the new tape would do the same thing as the old tape and I would be dealing with leaks again in the future.

Same here.
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Old 11-08-2018, 08:01 AM   #4
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That's what we did on our old rig.
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Old 11-08-2018, 05:54 PM   #5
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same here, cleaned up the squished out putty and caulked with black silicon.
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Old 11-08-2018, 10:47 PM   #6
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Is there any reason why nobody used Geocel Pro Flex Black RV Flexible Sealant instead of silicone?
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Old 11-09-2018, 08:23 AM   #7
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Is there any reason why nobody used Geocel Pro Flex Black RV Flexible Sealant instead of silicone?
I used DAP silicone max, says for maximum joint flexibility. Cant be any worse than what ever Keystone used plus it spread & tooled really nice. It only comes in clear & white & is not paintable, no black yet.
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Old 11-09-2018, 04:24 PM   #8
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I used silicone to reseal my window frames. My question is how did you guys get it on smoothly? Mine is very ugly because it wasn't a nice bead and the more I tried to smooth it the worse it got.
Thanks.
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Old 11-09-2018, 08:07 PM   #9
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I used silicone to reseal my window frames. My question is how did you guys get it on smoothly? Mine is very ugly because it wasn't a nice bead and the more I tried to smooth it the worse it got.
Thanks.
A wet finger & years of practice, if it starts to dry a little acetone wiped over it will smooth it out.
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Old 11-09-2018, 08:09 PM   #10
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Can't look any worse than the frames with the butyl caulking all squeezed out. As long as they aren't leaking, you are probably good.
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:25 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by twindman View Post
I used silicone to reseal my window frames. My question is how did you guys get it on smoothly? Mine is very ugly because it wasn't a nice bead and the more I tried to smooth it the worse it got.
Thanks.
Many many years and thousands of tubes of caulk applied to various things. The way I see it (most of the time) is if you have to put your finger or anything else for that matter in it, you are not very good at applying it and need more practice. Just like finishing drywall, you do not get good at it overnight.
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Old 11-11-2018, 10:39 PM   #12
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Many many years and thousands of tubes of caulk applied to various things. The way I see it (most of the time) is if you have to put your finger or anything else for that matter in it, you are not very good at applying it and need more practice. Just like finishing drywall, you do not get good at it overnight.
I agree with you - but since I don't have years of practice I am stuck with ugly windows!
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Old 11-12-2018, 05:00 AM   #13
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Window caulk

I used to use wet finger method, dragging/pulling my finger toward me, sort of like trying to push the bead into the joint. I always made a mess because it built up on my finger in front of where I was pulling my finger. I would pull a short distance and try to wipe off the excess..very messy. A caulking subcontractor told me to try using round ended “butter knife” or similar to “tool” the joint. The subs have several special tools made for the job but a butter knife worked for me. Move the knife forward to “remove” or scoop the excess, then wipe off the tip before making the next scoop. The rounded knife end leaves a nice looking joint. The key is to learn to apply the right amount of material to the bead - which takes practice. I still make a mess but it’s better than the finger method.
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Old 11-12-2018, 06:44 AM   #14
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Its a PITA to do (especially with curved windows) but if I encounter a difficult area to caulk I sometimes will tape off both sides leaving just the space where I want the caulk. Fill in the space with caulk and finger it off, then immediately remove the tape. This method is almost perfect every time.
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Old 12-02-2018, 11:34 PM   #15
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Sealing windows

Silicone clear!. Any misstakes you will not see it. Blue tape on both sides and your finger. Just don't have the urge to squezze two much out and when you pull the tape off alway pull the end towards the bead. This way any strands of sealent wii lay back on the bead, NOT your clean area. Once on, don't try to retouch it. Wait for it to dry or you will have a lumpy mess!!!!! That's a lesson learned by me! Good luck
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Old 12-03-2018, 06:38 AM   #16
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My old mentor carpenter buddy rest his soul had 2 sayings.
“ finish carpentry died with latex caulk”
“ you should have to have a license to buy silicone caulk”
Even the clear when aged will remind you how bad a job you did
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Old 04-17-2020, 04:27 PM   #17
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Resurrecting an old string, and I guess this is mainly directed at those of you who have been doing this much, much longer than I, why wouldn't you use the Geocell RV Flexible sealant mentioned by Lenny K rather than Silicone caulk as you've mentioned. My 2017 3792 is under-cover more than exposed to the elements and yet in prep for our next venture I have found areas that require re-caulking (i.e. caulking detached). Even those areas that are still intact are suspect as they show signs of mold beneath the silicone which means moisture intrusion. As some of you have mentioned removal of the old silicone is a ...so, based I what I think I know from my review of the Geocell product, Geocell is a better option. Please educate me and others on why your choice of silicone.

Much thanks, best of luck, and be safe to all!
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Old 04-17-2020, 07:33 PM   #18
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Silicone is a PITA to use, and even worse if you have the need to remove it. For my last repair, I used RV Flex. Like it a whole lot better than silicone, much easier to work with. You can smooth the bead with mineral spirits.
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