Short boxes

[Montana Man]

Originally Posted by Snoopy

reading all of talk about pin boxes and hitches has left me confused. I am using a pullright superlight 20k hitch in our 2015 ford sb super duty, with the mount in the forward position. I do think on level ground, I can do a 90^ turn without hitting my cab.

If you can make that turn with your setup, you are good to go. There is about 99 ways to achieve that end result.

[dsttexas]

For short boxes or long boxes, this information likely applies to both.

Locating the front to back, and height, of the pivot support arms on the base unit can be done without regard to front to rear axle weight differences. On my B&W Companion 3700 for Chevy/GMC factory puck system, the frame of the hitch distributes the weight evenly on the bed whether you set the pivot arms to be directly over the axle or 2" behind the axle. (Only choices) The location of the puck system frame contact controls the weight distribution, and I believe places the center weight slightly ahead of the axle regardless of pivot arm location.

I chose the rear position, even on my long bed, to give a little more head room between front of RV and my bed toolbox, so I can easily open it with RV connected.

I also choose the highest pivot arm position to get the most separation between RV overhang and rear tailgate / side rails. Every inch helps. It seems that every year trucks and their beds get a little taller, but RV's axle's are not raised, hence getting the rear bed clearance to be a safe 6" means the RV travels at a very slight raised front position. If it is more than slight, then rear axle RV tires will get more of the load than they should.

My rig is extremely well balanced this way, no jerking or other issues. Using truck weight scales, my setup places about 300 pounds more on the front axle compared to no RV hooked up. So it is definitely not lifting weight of the front axle as some would have you believe.

Another outstanding resource for all sorts of RV hitch issues is etrailer.com. Here's a link to a question I asked them on this pivot arm front vs rear question. https://www.etrailer.com/question-215644.html?fb=yes

[Lucky23]

Pullrite 2015 GMC 2500hd & 2016 3160rl & I back down a steep driveway off a 2 Lane Hwy in Oregon. 42 years behind the wheel of old semis no power steering and twin sticks this is like backing up a Toyota Prius 😉

[woodman]

There are several hitch options for short boxes. We chose the clean bed technology and preferred the full weight of the hitch over the C/L of my axle. I don't believe going aft of the center line is desirable for any sustained period of time. I also prefer the auto sliding ability of a hitch. To my knowledge, that leaves Demco and PullRite as the only true auto-sliders. Although, both use a gear system, the PullRite is in a league of it's own and is also on the higher end of costs. There is always adequate space when making even the tightest of turns and plenty of clearance over the rails. Our whole unit is removable leaving the truck bed clean and having no rails. We also have a Trail-Aire hitch pin with an air-bag helping to cushion the bumps and bridge approaches. I also had MorRyde install their IS and disc braking system and installed 17.5 inch rims and Goodyear G-114 tires. The fact is, road hazards are everywhere and tight turns inevitable, yet despite the most well equipped hitches, best tires, pin boxes, suspensions, etc., nothing will guarantee outcomes. Much of it still has to do with your comfort level and judgement, and that includes your weight and speed traveled.

[sberlin]

I have a Silverado short bed and use the Anderson Ultimate 5th Wheel hitch with no problems. The pin ball is adjustable as well as the pin box modifier. I didn't need to adjust anything and have clearance at all angles and have turned almost 90 degrees with no problems.

[woodman]

Anderson has an interesting concept as it is manufactured based on engineered triangular strength. I've read that they've now gone to a military grade aluminum frame instead of steel. Puliiam Enterprises, the company that makes the PullRite, is also designing a unit similar to the Anderson, but I haven't had the pleasure of seeing it at this point. Applied technology and physics, it's a great combination.

[Wyatt Earp]

Maybe I just have all the luck but on my last set up, Chevy 2500HD with 6.5 foot box, Reese 16K Titan and Reese Revolution pin box, I had nothing but trouble. I purchased Reese's wedge block to make it a complete system but still found it taking up to 15 minutes to unlock (not all the time but more than I liked). I made sure the wedge was seated properly but that didn't seem to help. The problem was finding the sweet spot that took most of the pressure off the locking jaws. What I found, it I I took the torque off the bolts holding the wedge so it had some play, I could uncouple the trailer. Then when I re-hitched I would tap the wedge back in place according to Reese's instructions and tighten the bolts. I now have a 8' bed, Curt A25 hitch and no problems.



One other note on the Revolution or Sidewinder pin box. They have a wear plate and bearing at the pivoting point that requires maintenance. I didn't realize that until I had ordered my 3500HD with the mfg. puck system. That could had also contributed to my uncoupling problems.

[Briarglenn]

I've been on the road for 12 years and have nothing, but short bed trucks I've never hit my cab and as far as clearance from the side rails just set your hitch at the right height. Just parked a friend 38 footer in a 14' opening with a 60' fir on driver's off a single lane road. Just take your time an jocky.