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Old 01-31-2013, 08:41 AM   #1
markwick
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05 Silverado hub assemblies

While traveling to Palm Springs from Vancouver BC last Fall, I had problems making tight turns - felt like the power steering was going. Loud clunking coming from the front end. Stopped in Sacramento for a few days and took it in to Kuni, a local GM dealership. Turns out I had to have both front hub assemblies replaced. As most of you know when you are on the road you have to put your faith in someone at the dealership. I am not saying the work was not required but what can you do?
My 05 Silverado 2500HD has only 75,000 miles (mostly hauling the 5th.) So was surprised when I got the bill...$1,602.97
They said to keep the paperwork as these hub assemblies have a lifetime warranty - why not install those the first time!!
The bill also included $100 to replace the serpentine belt which I had just purchased prior to this trip and was going to put on myself. Thinking it was going to be a power steering problem i asked them to replace the belt aty the same time. $100!!
I very rarely use the 4WD on the truck so maybe lack of use might have had an impact, I now drive in 4WD at least once a month to keep everything mobile and lubricated.
Hey! - no smart-*ss comments from you Dodge and Ford folks!
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:23 AM   #2
bigskyjimmy
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To bad you could not make it home ,I just did one side of mine and It is a DYI job you can do for about 100 bucks per side and a few hours of your time same with the belt and idler pullies
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:23 AM   #3
mazboy
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i had one of my hub assembles on chevy 2006 going out (120K)so i purchased 2 hubs on the internet and found a mechanic advertising half off labor on a certain. Total cost, sorry was around $600

as for the belt, to me, it is worth they $100 in them changing the belt.
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:55 PM   #4
Flymutt
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I have a 2005 GMC 2500HD and had one of these replaced last summer for 232.19 + 97.50 labor at a local tire shop
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:24 PM   #5
Slufoot733
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All I can say is "that's life". My Ford gave me fits with the rear calipers seizing up last year. I was stuck in Philadelphia, PA, on a Sunday and could go no further. I found that Pep Boys were open and limped in. Five hours & $1,150 later I was on my way. I consider myself lucky they were open and could locate the parts. I had to settle for NEW calipers at $258 each as opposed to rebuilt for $89 each. Pad and rotors were new as they should be. Labor killed me. They even charged $108 to bleed the brakes! When I worked in a garage bleeding the brakes was part of the job, no extra charge. But I was at their mercy.....and they did get me on my way. At my local guy it would have cost me half that, or less. And if my back was better I would have done it myself. This getting old stuff sucks
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:34 PM   #6
Illini Trekker
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Bet it was the drivers side hub? That's why they call them stealers (dealers). I payed a little over a $100 for the hub and needed to buy a couple of tools to do the job. Luckily I was at home and not on the road better luck next time. Mine had 85000 miles, better jack the other side up and check for any movement when you give the wheel and tire a good shake!
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:59 PM   #7
Tom S.
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When you say hubs, are you referring to the sealed bearing assemblies? If so, I've seen a lot of postings on these for trucks your year and earlier. It was also an issue with the GM S series of pickups and Blazer type vehicles. As for lifetime warranty, at best it's a gamble by the manufacturer and at worst a scam. Most people who buy parts with lifetime warranties don't keep the vehicle long enough for the new part to go bad. Think about it - your truck was 8 years old when the parts went bad. Do you think you'll have it 8 years from now? You may, but it's likely you won't. Also, the lifetime warranty is on that part only, so if you need to replace it, the new part may not have the warranty. Case in point, I replaced the sealed bearings on an Olds Bravada with lifetime parts from a local supplier. A year later when they went bad again, the supplier gave me replacement parts, but told me they had no warranty on them because they were replacements for the lifetime warranty. May not make sense, but unless you have a lawyer at your disposal, what can you do?
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Old 02-01-2013, 01:08 AM   #8
Devildog
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The hub assemblies are a wear item, just like having the bearings greased. And whether you are in 4wd or not will have no bearing(pun) on how long they will last. Oversize tires, new wheels that are not designed for you offset, or overloading the front end when towing will affect them. Did both of mine in the.driveway on my previous GMC. About an every 100,000 mile maintenance item.
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Old 02-01-2013, 02:11 AM   #9
Devildog
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The hub assemblies are a wear item, just like having the bearings greased. And whether you are in 4wd or not will have no bearing(pun) on how long they will last. Oversize tires, new wheels that are not designed for you offset, or overloading the front end when towing will affect them. Did both of mine in the.driveway on my previous GMC. About an every 100,000 mile maintenance item.
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Old 02-01-2013, 02:37 AM   #10
MIMF
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My '05 Silverado has 120,3?? miles on it. Have both front hubs replaced back around 70 or 80,000 and rear axle seals replaced twice. I figure at about 150K miles, those seals will need to be replaced, again. Sounds like your maintenance intervals are about normal. Going to have to go back thru my records and check into this idler pulley and belt thing. Not remembering if this has been done yet. Heck, just this last Monday, I had both batteries replaced with a couple of high powered Die-Hards because, what was in there were still the factory originals. The only things that are still original now is, the shocks and exhaust. At this point, I would not be scared to drive this old truck anywhere in North America.....with the 5er on it's back!
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:36 AM   #11
brooksider
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I have replaced two on drivers side and one on passenger side bearings at 147k. Not a big job Like Devildog did them in the driveway. Big thing is you can use an impact wrench to remove them but they must be put on by hand and torqued. Forget what ftlb.
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