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Old 10-30-2006, 01:06 PM   #1
Montana_6467
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furnace problem

I have a 02 Montana 3280RL with a furnace problem, you can hear the ignitor and the fan comes on but the furnace will not light. Any suggestions?
 
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Old 10-30-2006, 01:12 PM   #2
Hemlockusa
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curtis - first check and see if you can light your stove and water heater. Several members have had this problem and found it to be the LP regulator so make sure your getting LP to everything before you go for a bad furnace. Hope this helps John
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Old 10-30-2006, 01:21 PM   #3
Montana_6467
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Thanks for the suggestion, the oven, fridge and hot water heater all light and run fine. I will check the regulator.
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Old 10-30-2006, 01:22 PM   #4
Mrs. CountryGuy
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And, might check for spiders, they love propane, build webs and the fuel will not deliver.
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Old 10-30-2006, 03:02 PM   #5
315RLS
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Curtis, I hope someone can offer some insight as to what this problem is as we encountered it the second day camping a couple weekends back and luckly had a auxilary heater with us. When we got home and tried it again and it then worked.
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Old 10-31-2006, 02:49 AM   #6
Montana_6176
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Might be low voltage to ignitor, low battery or converter.
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Old 10-31-2006, 03:15 AM   #7
lightningjack11
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It may be a bad striker board in the furnace but before you go that route:

Make absolutely certain the gas flow is ok which you said you did.

Make absolutely certain the battery voltage stays at 12v measured while the fan is on. That DC fan takes a lot of current and has to be running good before the gas will light. A low voltage will keep the furnace from coming on. As you know when the furnace cuts off the fan keeps running for a time for safety reasons to cool everything down.

What I suggest is to put a voltmeter on the battery while the furnace is running. If it drops to 11v or so that is your problem. (Charger or Battery)

Otherwise it is probably the striker board and you can get one at most RV dealers.
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Old 10-31-2006, 03:50 AM   #8
H. John Kohl
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I have read to check for blockage on the outside air vents. Mud dabbers or spiders may have built a blockage in there.
Good luck.
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Old 10-31-2006, 09:21 AM   #9
snfexpress
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There are just a few basic parts to these blasted furnaces.

First, there is the circuit board, which is the easiest to replace. Typically, if the fan is blowing and WON'T turn off unless you either pull the 12v fuse or turn off the unit on top (there is a switch), then it is probably the circuit board.

Second, there is a sail switch. This is a switch inside the fan housing (4 screws to get the fan housing front half off). This switch has a long piece of metal on it about 1/4" wide. As the fan turns, the air pushes against this long thin metal strip and pushes it closed, which activates the switch. The switch is now allowing 12v to go thru it which in turn allows the gas valve to be able to operate.

Third is the electrode. This is a bear to replace (I did it, and it took me an hour to get the old one out and the new one in by wiggling it every which way in a very cramped space). The electrode, if bad, won't "spark" and ignite the gas. If you go to the trouble of getting the unit all the way out and on a bench, then I would take the extra time and replace the electrode.

Fourth is the gas valve. I haven't replaced this valve, and if it every gets to that point, I'm just going to order a new furnace. Looks too complicated and dangerous, at least to me.

So, in order of price, it goes 1, 4, 3, 2. Roughly $170 for the board and just a few bucks for the sail switch and electrode. Don't know the price of the gas valve.

In order of difficulty, it goes 1, 2, 3, 4.

In order of your problem, I would suggest #3. Let me ask you: Does you furnace ever light? The unit will try 3 times, then "lock out", so you have to turn the unit switch off then back on. When you turn it back on (with the t-stat turned to furnace and calling for heat - set to 99 degrees), the fan should come on, then the ignitor on the circuit board (after about 20 seconds) should go click, click, click and then the propane should be burning. If the propane does not ignite, the exhaust sound will not change, and then the board will try a second and a third time.

Oh, I would try one thing first. Open your stove hood and disconnect the gas to the burners. Fit a gas guage on to the propane supply line. It should read between 10 and 14 inches WC or about 3 lbs of pressure. But, Atwood's manual states that before doing a pressure check, to first disconnect the propane supply and cap this supply line to the furnace. If the pressure is low, go to your regulator and adjust as necessary (under the black cap on the regulator).

Sorry for the long post, and hope that what I wrote makes sense to you. Good Luck!
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Old 10-31-2006, 04:52 PM   #10
markwick
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I had the same problem as have other MOC members - check to see if there is a kink in the propane hose in the propane tank storage compartment. Sometimes there is enough gas getting through to run the fridge and stove but the furnace requires a higher flow. If that flow is low it will not ignite but it keeps trying - good luck
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Old 11-01-2006, 03:33 PM   #11
bob n pam
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Bob just replaced our circuit board. The thermostat would click but the furnace would not light. Took the unit into Hometown RV in Wheaton, IL and the service tech tested lots of things and determined it was the circuit board. Actually, this started at 4:00 a.m. when he woke up to go to the bathroom and found out it was colder than boogers in here. It got down to 24 degrees last night and we need that furnace! It is toasty warm in here now. FYI, this is after 5 years of fulltiming in this rig and 2 past winters in the Chicago area.
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:27 PM   #12
Okie Guy
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WOW! There is a lot of helpful information on this page. Does anyone leave their furnace on while at home storing the unit? I have not had time to winterize my unit and have just left the heat turned up to 50 degrees. Is this good, bad or does it matter? I have been looking for condensation but none in sight.
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