Take heart, you EZ-Lube guys!

[WaltBennett]

I've been following the lube procedure from Dexter and used a hand pumped grease gun for four years now. Always dreaded having to try doing something that required three hands no matter how many different things I tried. Since I really don't bend as much as I even did last year, I went to Harbor Freight and bought one of these last week: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-gre...ose-68293.html Figured I'd just tap the trigger every second or two while spinning a wheel. This one also is a continuous feed type, so with my regulator down to 80 psi I shouldn't burst a seal. Even if I did, they're not that hard to replace.

The thing did each wheel in about five minutes with more time spent scooping out the old stuff than anything else. Also did my wet bolts in seconds. Did one side in an hour including jacking time. Dexter may not like what I'm doing, but I. DON'T. CARE!

[BB_TX]

I figure people are always wondering what I am doing sitting on a box, two hands on a manual grease gun, while raising one foot up and down turning the wheel while I pump. And yes, it does take a while for each wheel. But I am still a little wary of a powered grease gun, even at a low pressure.

But they are building a Harbor Freight only about 10 minutes away. Not sure that is a good idea for me.

[WaltBennett]

Well, I'll be 73 in a month and it took me a total of three hours (including a one hour break!) to jack it up, lube the axles & shackles, wash the tires & put protectant on and let it down. My back isn't killing me and I'm only mildly dirty. Got to chalk this thing up to the one of the best $30 tools I've ever bought!

The ONLY drawback is that when you change tubes, it takes a really long time to get grease coming out again. Twice now I've thought I was doing something wrong or it broke, but squeeze the button for about three minutes, then let it sit for a couple. Then do it all again. Sooner or later it'll start working. Maybe I should crank up the air pressure for this part?

[dieselguy]

You all know my position on "not so EZ lube" I just can't keep my mouth shut here.
" Did one side in an hour including jacking time." Some of us can pop the brake drum off, clean and repack in that same amount of time and have the opportunity to look over the brakes and magnet as well. I know the system works for you, but I just can't get past pumping the old grease from the rear bearing right into the front bearing ... it has to happen ya know.

[ALSAN]

There is a attachment that goes on the end of the grease gun hose that locks the tip on to the zerk called Locknlube I us it on my gun works good for those hard to reach places that you need three hands

[WaltBennett]

Originally Posted by dieselguy

You all know my position on "not so EZ lube" I just can't keep my mouth shut here.
" Did one side in an hour including jacking time." Some of us can pop the brake drum off, clean and repack in that same amount of time and have the opportunity to look over the brakes and magnet as well. I know the system works for you, but I just can't get past pumping the old grease from the rear bearing right into the front bearing ... it has to happen ya know.

So you can do ONE wheel in an hour with jacking? I did both and my wet bolts as well in one hour.

[DQDick]

I just use Never Lube Bearings and have them replace them when the warranty is up. As long as I can affort to pay for it, I have other things that interest me more. To each his own.

[mlh]

Walt have you took a wheel off to see if your seals are leaking as you pump grease in?
Thanks Lynwood

[WaltBennett]

Originally Posted by mlh

Walt have you took a wheel off to see if your seals are leaking as you pump grease in?
Thanks Lynwood

Grease never went in faster than I could manually pump it in - no need to check. I checked how much the gun would pump at 89 psi and tapping the trigger about once each couple of seconds. Same (or maybe even less) volume, but no where near the hassle.

And while I know a lot of owners choose to ignore manufacturers instructions and do whatever way they want, I actually addressed this to those that followed them.

[mlh]

Walt I understand that you are doing exactly what the manufacturer says but for all of those who won't grease without taking the wheels off have you ever checked to see if the seals were leaking.
Lynwood

[WaltBennett]

I've not felt an urge to try doing that just to see if there's leakage. That is more work than I'd like to attempt with a bad back and my arthritis. I pay close attention to how my brakes are performing though. That's how I found out that a state inspector (way older than me, yet!) and messed up one wheel's seal during the inspection process. Even one wheel's brakes not performing 100% can be noticeable.

My usual way is our 170' driveway has a slight slope downhill to the street and I can get moving to 2 - 3 mph and should easily be able to stop the truck and trailer with just the controller paddles. Three years back, on our way coming home from CA, I noticed a lowering of stopping power. I found a large parking lot and tried the usual, but found I couldn't stop any where near as quickly as normal with the paddles. We managed to get home with careful driving and turning up the controller gain to 10.

The first wheel I pulled was the one that the inspector did and that one's seal had failed. The other three were fine, although the brake shoe's thickness was down about half way. Since eTrailer's prices are so great, I just replaced all four assemblies and put on new seals.

IMHO, if a seal is installed correctly and is working, why take it apart? If you pull anything mechanical apart, don't you typically replace all the seals when putting it back together? Unless there's a reason to suspect something's failed, why take it apart just to look at it? If there's an inspection cycle that requires taking something apart (like an aircraft engine), that's different. Taking wheels off to 'see' if a seal is leaking each year doesn't make sense to me as it risks damaging what you're checking on. But that's just me!

[mlh]

Thanks just exactly what I wonted to know.
Lynwood

[Phil P]

Hi

WaltBennett

I have one of those air guns but will not use it on the EZ-Lube because the air cylinder actuates like an air hammer. The object of the hand operated grease gun is the smooth application of forcing the grease thru the grease fitting. The reason Dexter says not to use an air operated grease gun is the hammering action of it can force the seal out the back of the hub.

Lynwood

I have 100,000 miles on our trailer I haven’t had the inner bearings and seals out of the hub and only had the outer one out when I changed the brake shoes. It is easy to tell of the seal has been compromised by inspection thru the brake adjustment hole.

Phil P

[WaltBennett]

Originally Posted by Phil P

Hi

WaltBennett

I have one of those air guns but will not use it on the EZ-Lube because the air cylinder actuates like an air hammer. The object of the hand operated grease gun is the smooth application of forcing the grease thru the grease fitting. The reason Dexter says not to use an air operated grease gun is the hammering action of it can force the seal out the back of the hub.

Phil P

There's actually two types of them and that's why I got the continuous feed type of gun. It doesn't 'hammer' anywhere near like the other kind. The only concern is how much volume comes out and that's why I kept the air pressure down and only tapped the trigger.

[Tomzspot]

My 2014 3402rl has not been towed over 500 total miles. It has been in a fulltime spot for 2 years. This year we're leaving the Ohio winter and going South. Since I only have 500 miles on it do I really need to have the bearings and wet bolts lubed?

[mlh]

Originally Posted by Tomzspot

My 2014 3402rl has not been towed over 500 total miles. It has been in a fulltime spot for 2 years. This year we're leaving the Ohio winter and going South. Since I only have 500 miles on it do I really need to have the bearings and wet bolts lubed?

Bearing no wet bolts yes. What you really need is to replace your tires if you have the standard ST tires with G rated tires.
Lynwood

[Tomzspot]

I was just checking my date stamp on my tires. They were made 39 week of 2013. I know that car tires are rated at 6 years what about RV?

[BB_TX]

Originally Posted by Tomzspot

I was just checking my date stamp on my tires. They were made 39 week of 2013. I know that car tires are rated at 6 years what about RV?

Depends on the manufacturer. Michelin says yearly inspection beginning at 6 yrs. And replace no older than 10 yrs. But some manufacturers are not nearly as optimistic about their tires.

[Dave W]

If they have been sitting on the same spot for 2+ years, regardless of brand, they may be rotted where they met the ground. If one side has been exposed to direct sun for 2+ years they may be totally dried out. If they are some Chinese brand such as Goodyear's Marathon,Tow Max, Rainier or similar, they are in danger of failure regardless.


If your wheel bearings, drums and brake linings haven't been at least looked at in 5+ years, they need to be before any lengthy trip. Grease the wet bolts too.

[Texan]

If these are the original tires then i would definitely change to new g rated tires such as Goodyear or Sailun. I have the same year and model as yours and they came with e-rated Chinese tires that i had changed to Sailuns before i left the dealer. Simple tire has the Sailuns on sale 10% off right now and free shipping. I would grease the wet bolts and do as Dave says and pull the hubs and check the bearings and brakes. Better safe than sorry.