Does everyone use a water regulator?

[sreigle]

We use an adjustable regulator similar to what Mrs. Country Guy and Glenn and others use. Sometimes I have it before the filter, sometimes after. If we're in freezing winter, then I put it in the water connection center rather than outside. The location, for me, all depends on the situation. I don't think it really makes much difference where it is located so long as you know anything prior to the regulator is not protected from high pressure. Our filter is a whole house filter intended for a stick home, which may have higher pressure anyhow.

[Countryfolks]

quote:Originally posted by Trailer Trash 2


I haven't figured out how I will dissolve these stones, maybe some acid in the line closest to the tank which will involve cutting the line and attaching a funnel and the a pour.

I had a similar problem that eventually fixed itself. But I thought I would try putting something into the hose, connecting it and turn the water on. I never tried it so don't know if it would work.

[ChuckD]

We hardly ever use a regulator because of low pressure at mosr CG. We have found a few that do surge over 80 lbs at night, those places we do use it Chuck

[OntMont]

OK, my 2 cents worth:

We don't usually use one.

Trailer is supposed to be good for 100 psi plus.

Toilet is only designed for 40 psi. (according to Sealand)

Our toilet valve makes a loud noise when it closes, Sealand say that this is because of high pressure.

I installed an in line regulator on the toilet supply line. (a plastic one purchased from Tractor Supply that is intended for farm use on sprayers)

Some campgrounds that were built cheaply, use smaller distribution lines, and boost the pressure to compensate.

I don't trust cheap regulators to fully shut off, if they pass even a little, the pressure will build up in the trailer to match the supply pressure.

All that said, a good regulator is good insurance, and shutting off the supply when you leave the trailer unattended is even better, but I am guilty of doing neither.

[Art-n-Marge]

I would think that using a water regulator with low water pressure makes it a non-factor in the water line. The regulator just ensures that higher pressure is regulated to whatever the setting. For us water regulator users, we are providing a mental safeguard against a potential problem. With temperature changes, amount of use, age of plumbing, faulty parts, the regulator minimizes some of these things.

When you think about it, there is no correct or incorrect answers on this topic, just opinions based on experience, awareness, fear and finances. There have been great responses across the spectrum. We can all find a stance that fits our needs. I know I will be changing my plumbing slightly based on some information provided here.

[Glenn and Lorraine]

quote:Originally posted by Mrs. CountryGuy

We have one of the super duper water regulators, akin to what Glenn (of Glenn and Lorraine) has. The brass ones were failing, so for a few more $$ we went to the king of water regulators.

Purchased parts at Lowes.

I looked for a show and tell page and could not find one, and I have not done one, sooooooo, Glenn, do you have a show and tell page on this???

**Actually, IIRC, Glenn has 2 regulators, we only have 1**.

**Yes, I did but I never used more than one at a time.

Sorry but for whatever reason I missed this thread.

Here is a pic of a regulator I once used regularly but now I seldom use it.





You can buy the regulator and all necessary fittings for around $50.00 at Lowes or Home Depot.

BUT, I have found that most all CGs have under 90 PSI and therefore I no longer use a regulator of any kind. The CG we are in right now is also our winter site for 7 months. The pressure here is 80 PSI and in the past 4 years I have not used a regulator.
According to Keystone the entire water system in our Monty's are tested at 125 PSI.

I have no actual Show and Tell page for this but if you go the album you can find many pics of some of my mods as well as others.

Show and Tell Pics

[Native Tex]

We use one very much like Glenn. It is basically one from Lowes that you would use on you stick home. Work really good.

[sreigle]

Mine looks just like Carol's and is also from Lowe's. The hose fitting adapters are needed but they're also available at Lowe's.

I didn't realize the Montanas are tested to 125 psi. I know the water lines themselves have a higher rating printed right on the lines. Something like 140 or 150 or maybe even higher.

We had one park where they told me their pressure is so high I should mount the regulator right at the park bib.

I had not thought of using a regulator on the toilet supply line. Nice idea, John. I know if I set our regulator above about 58 psi our toilet will shoot water out of the bowl when the line is opened. So I have our regulator set at 58 psi. My dial pressure gauge is mounted right at the Montana's inlet.

[sreigle]

quote:Originally posted by Trailer Trash 2


The biggest problem I had on my last trip was sand or calcium that brakes loose from the parks pipes and it goes into the in line filter or as what happened to me, it caused a restriction in the black tank flush/spray nozel in the black tank

Don, I have a short hose semi-permanently attached to the black water flush inlet and just drop the hose out the hole when we connect the rig. So, I've not looked directly at the inlet for awhile. Doesn't it have a screen washer on the inlet? If not, you can buy the washer with screen. I would think if it doesn't have one, installing one might keep those nuggets from getting past the inlet. You would have to clean the screen but that's sure better than what you're dealing with. Just a thought.

[Desert RVer]

There is no way that Keystone checks all RV's for water pressure at 125 PSI. If they have stated that is is marketing BS. We have had multiple leaks using 45 or 55 PSI regulators with some water connections falling apart because the connection clamp had never been tightened. The primary reason regulators are required is because of shoddy factory assembly procedures.

[Ozzie]

I got the idea from you guys...and put it all in one package.
It fits in the shower during travel. I set it under the slide out of the sun as clear is not recommended. I like to see how bad the filters are...



All I needed to see was the fluctuation in pressure to convince me. It stays the same to the camper.

[beakyfudd]

Bruce, very nice assembly. It looks like the filters and piping just rest on the base? Jim

[Ozzie]

Yup - sits right on there and doesn't need to be removed, it rotates to the side for changing filters.
I've been using this setup for a couple years and just love it. Everything is on quick connects other than the main campground connection and I can visually see the sediment filter as it can load up fairly fast.
As long as we're talking about it, I also have another double filter under the kitchen sink with a separate spigot. That one steps the filtration up a couple notches and is used for drinking water.

[sreigle]

I don't think Keystone tests every rig coming off the line for 125 psi. I do think they tested one when they built the first of the design, then build the rest the same. I've never heard to what psi they tested to so am only using the number provided above.

[Glenn and Lorraine]

quote:Originally posted by Desert RVer

There is no way that Keystone checks all RV's for water pressure at 125 PSI. If they have stated that is is marketing BS. We have had multiple leaks using 45 or 55 PSI regulators with some water connections falling apart because the connection clamp had never been tightened. The primary reason regulators are required is because of shoddy factory assembly procedures.

Excuse me! I never said that Keystone checks ALL RV's for water pressure at 125 PSI. The water systems in the Montana's are designed to work up to 125 PSI and with all things being equal that's what they will handle. I owned 2 Montana's and have yet to have a leak due to loose fittings or weak water lines in either rig.
I should also mention that my experience comes from nearly 6 years of Fulltiming. I have pulled my Monty's over many, many miles of Interstate, State, and local roadways. Some of these very hiways were in worse shape than some dirt roads we have also traveled. Over all those roadways surely some of the so called "shoddy" workmanship would have appeared.
BTW-When I did get my first Monty I did use a regulator. This is the same regulator I pictured previously. With one exception, it has been years since I last used it. The one exception was at a CG where the CG owner warned me that they had over 175 PSI at the faucet. In that case I did use the regulator.
You may call the workmanship "shoddy" if you wish but I call it Monday/Friday worker mentality. Most every worker in any job hates Monday's and will not perform to his best abilities. Friday is the end of the week and now it's a matter of getting the day over so they can start their weekend.
IF it was just plain "shoddy" workmanship explain to me why so many Montana's are on the road without this so called "shoddy" workmanship appearing?

[dsprik]

Just wish they would have found the trash bin a little easier rather than using every nook and cranny in my Montana to throw their loose screws, nails, scrape wires, scrap trim, etc. Think it added an extra 10 # to my GVW...

I have had some leaks right out of the factory, but with all the connections involved, I think the percentage of tightened connections at the plant was within tolerance levels.

[Delaine and Lindy]

We have never used a water regulator just the type you get at CW or any RV place. When we bought the Cambridge 358 during the PDI it was pressure tested to 100 psi and we never have had a issue with water pressure, and according to Dave (xnavydiver) with a system similar to Glenn, here at the View our water pressure is 100 psi by and all I use is the cheap pressure reducer. Most all RV parks we have used have low water pressure. GBY.....

[Art-n-Marge]

I wonder if anyone does a pressure test during a PDI how long did they test it for? With many of the fittings and connections not visible externally, how does one truly know the test passed unless you can physically see all the fittings and connections and there are no slow leaks.

hmmmm. The factory is the best place but only if the fittings and connections are exposed during the test and it is tested for an hour or two. We can hope that ALL rigs went through something this time-consuming. Plus there the time to find and remedy the problem areas.

So much to worry about, sigh.

[rames14]

I'm afraid if they did that, most of us couldn't afford them. All of the plumbing in the frame including the tanks is done in the first station. Then they put the silver material and rubber bottom together. After that, they flip the frame over and install the one piece decking. From there, they build the walls and do the plumbing there. It isn't like a stick house where you have everything stationary. I thought I did see on the last tour where they did a pressure decay leak test. I might be dreaming it, but that would be the only way they would be able to do it the way the factory is designed.

[sreigle]

I always use our regulator but that's just my choice. When we are hooking up the water in an rv park we're not familiar with I have no idea whether the current water pressure is the norm or if it's just low at the moment. I have quick connects on my regulator so it only takes a few seconds to connect it. If the pressure is less than my regulator setting, no harm done. If it's higher, then we're protected. As John said, the pipes are rated far more pressure than we'll ever likely see in a park but if pressure gets above about 60 psi then flushing the toilet shoots water out of the bowl. So we use the regulator. Just our choice.