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Old 09-13-2018, 09:04 AM   #21
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That is a good thing pump is fine it’s someting much easier and cheaper to fix in the electrical side then I’m pretty sure. My first guess bad breaker.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:17 AM   #22
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If the pump run's when you use the level up then the pump is good. I would pull the switch out for the slides and jumper it and see if the pump runs to move the slides in or out easy to do with with a peace of wire! running the pump is not going to operate the switching valves that is done with switch.
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Old 09-16-2018, 01:11 PM   #23
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Just a thought.....Did you insure that the"bypass" switches (usually in the control panel) have not been turned off?
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Old 09-16-2018, 05:13 PM   #24
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Slides donít work

Originally Posted by mazboy View Post
some suggestions from another site:
1. A hydraulic leak in one of the hydraulic lines or pump itself could be causing the hydraulic pump to run, but it does not have enough hydraulic fluid pressure to operate the slideout.

2. A bad hydraulic valve could again cause the hydraulic pump to run, but not enough fluid is getting to where it is suppose to, to move your slideout out.
3. A bad hydraulic pump. The noise you are hearing could be the pump trying to start up. Since you are hearing a noise when you press the slideout switch, I am not going to suggest that you check for a blown fuse.
Hope you have better luck than I did with the same symptoms. A rat had chewed one of my hydraulic lines and the oil was dumping into the under belly. Big problem. Had to remove the underbelly and have the lime replaced. Fortunately Iím prett handy and did all the work myself so it only cost me $60.00 to repair the line. If it had to go into a shop it could have been astronomical.
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Old 09-16-2018, 05:45 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by KemoLondon View Post
Ok kids, here's my problem. Got a 2018 3720RL with three slides. The bedroom is electric and the two rear slides are hydrolic. Had it for a year now and everything worked great. Just went out to open her up and the bedroom worked great but the two rear slides won't do anything. No sound, no nothing when I push the switch. I'm hooked up to shore power. Any ideas?


Had this happen when my wife plugged in the shore power without turning off the pedestal breaker first. It ended up killing the transfer switch under the stairs of our '16 3160RL. Had no fear slide power and no A/C, inverter wouldn't charge batts. Cost me 500 bones for a tech to come T/S the problem and bypass the transfer switch to get me running. I dont have a genny so will replace transfer switch whenever I get around to it. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-16-2018, 08:29 PM   #26
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We were a long way from service and our struts would not retract. After another person wiggled wires while I pushed buttons it started working again. A week later the problem returned and I found a ground wire from the hydraulic service area was screwed into paper thin sheet metal and had worked loose. (Shoddy construction typical of Montana.) The wire is now connected to a solid frame brace. Problem solved.
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:34 AM   #27
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auto reset breaker

Originally Posted by BB_TX View Post
Mine is older so yours may look different. But there should be an auto reset circuit breaker that supplies power to your hydraulic pump. Probably two breakers with one for the pump and another for other things. Picture shows mine under the red covers. And they look something like this when the cover is removed. https://www.delcity.net/store/12V-Au...98669.h_198846

There should be +12 vdc on both screws of all these breakers, battery side and load side. You can't tell by looking, will need to check them with a volt meter. I would make sure of that before tearing into the switch and wiring. If you do not have +12 vdc on the load side of the the breakers, you have a bad breaker(s). If you do not have +12 vdc to the battery side, you have a +12 vdc supply problem.

If you do have voltage on both sides of both breakers, then your problem is apparently in the switch circuit. Or in the reversing polarity contactor sitting on top of the pump. Or a bad pump motor. Or???

Another possibility is loss of the ground wire connection from the pump to the trailer frame.

Lots of things to check. Do the easier ones first.
Agree with BB_TX that this is where to start
Attached Files
File Type: doc auto reset.doc (111.5 KB, 9 views)
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Old 09-23-2018, 05:20 AM   #28
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Update kiddies: took my rig to General RV. Problem was a corroded wire clip back by the rear slides in the under belly. Since my rig is four seasons it's enclosed and I didn't want to tear it down and still not find the issue. My baby is fixed and back home so now my question is this appears to be an assembly issue. The wire clip was not crimped correctly and broke due to the corrosion. The rig is only a year old and JUST went off of warranty. I'm thinking of contacting Keystone and asking for some kind of help with the bill. $650 to repair a poorly crimped wire rubs me the wrong way after buying a "luxury" rig. Any thoughts?
Kemo & Gayle
2018 Montana 3720rl
2017 F-350 Lariat Supercab
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Old 09-23-2018, 06:51 AM   #29
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Kemo and Gayle,

Congrats on sorting out the problem. Can't hurt to call and see if Keystone will help.
Zack and Donna plus Millie
2018 Montana 3160RL
2012 F-250
"Life is too short to stay indoors, enjoy the ride!"
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Old 09-23-2018, 02:08 PM   #30
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If Keystone won't help, try writing to Trailer Life mag. They contact the company and often get some help for you.

Tom and Gail
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Old 09-23-2018, 03:21 PM   #31
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Glad you got it fixed. I wouldn’t hold my breath until Keystone helps but if you don’t try I can guarantee they won’t help.
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Old 09-24-2018, 04:34 AM   #32
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Thanks all. Camp On!
Kemo & Gayle
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