Dexter EZ lube wheel bearings

[shovelhead86]

I have read the Dexter manual about lubing their ez lube system and it says that the old grease is supposed to come out of a port somewhere. I pumped in 3/4 tube of rease and don't see any yet. Any help or should i just pull the drum and do it that way. this is a new rig and I am told that the factory does not put much grease in.

[K0LCB]

Originally Posted by shovelhead86

I have read the Dexter manual about lubing their ez lube system and it says that the old grease is supposed to come out of a port somewhere. I pumped in 3/4 tube of rease and don't see any yet. Any help or should i just pull the drum and do it that way. this is a new rig and I am told that the factory does not put much grease in.

I believe if you fill the hub with grease you will have too much grease and run a chance of blowing a grease seal, greasing your brakes. JMHO

[prndl]

The old grease is supposed to come out around the grease nipple when you remove the rubber cap. If you put in 3/4 tube and have nothing to show for it you probably have grease in your brake drum now. Have you been turning the wheel while putting in the grease?

[BB_TX]

Here is a good video to help understand the EZ Lube. The grease will come out around the tip of your grease gun. If the factory did not fill the hub it could take 3/4 tube before grease starts coming out. Wheel should be turning constantly while you pump.

http://www.dexteraxle.com/resources/...-z-lube-system

[dieselguy]

Ya'll know my opinion of the "not so EZ lube", but if ya really want to put your faith in it ... so be it. Yes, I know a handful of you on the MOC swear by it, but the majority of users swear at it. Ask any RV tech. Two questions for those of you that swear by the EZ lube ...
question #1 ... if it's such a whizz bang deal, why does Dexter not fill the cavity to start with at their factory? Do they not have faith in their own product?
#2 ... why is it a good idea to push the contaminated used grease out of the rear bearing, mix it with grease in the hub between the bearings, then pump that mix on in to the front bearing?
shovelhead86 ... just in this instance, I'd pull the wheel and check for grease in the drum area. It takes the patience of Jobe, a lot of turning the tire, and preferably warm weather to make this work right. 3/4 of a tube is quite a bit of grease in a small cavity that the spindle takes up most of the room.

[rohrmann]

Originally Posted by dieselguy

Ya'll know my opinion of the "not so EZ lube", but if ya really want to put your faith in it ... so be it. Yes, I know a handful of you on the MOC swear by it, but the majority of users swear at it. Ask any RV tech. Two questions for those of you that swear by the EZ lube ...
question #1 ... if it's such a whizz bang deal, why does Dexter not fill the cavity to start with at their factory? Do they not have faith in their own product?
#2 ... why is it a good idea to push the contaminated used grease out of the rear bearing, mix it with grease in the hub between the bearings, then pump that mix on in to the front bearing?
shovelhead86 ... just in this instance, I'd pull the wheel and check for grease in the drum area. It takes the patience of Jobe, a lot of turning the tire, and preferably warm weather to make this work right. 3/4 of a tube is quite a bit of grease in a small cavity that the spindle takes up most of the room.

And just think, if you like this method of greasing the bearings, in order to do it again the next time, you will have to pump at least that much grease again to push the old grease completely through the hub, past the outer bearing, until the new grease has fully replaced the old grease. All this is assuming the seals haven't failed, and you are confident that the brakes are good. The time it takes to jack up the wheels and spin them while pumping grease could have easily been spent greasing the bearings the old fashioned way, inspecting the brakes and installing new seals, and having the satisfaction knowing you have safe brakes and well greased and adjusted bearings.

[BB_TX]

You know, a lot of those who “swear at them”, when pushed, admit they never actually tried them.

[bseebeck]

It took me a tube per axle. Seemed to work like the video.

[dieselguy]

Several of the owners that "swear it them" (EZ lube hubs) are the ones I've talked to during a visit to a dealership. They are pretty PO'd about the bill for new brakes. No answers to my questions yet ... Plus I have a 3rd question ... how long does it take for you to jack up 4 separate wheels, spin, and get your greasing done to your satisfaction?

[1retired06]

Have always serviced my hubs the old fashioned way, a bit messy but not that hard. Do not want to lose a bearing, race, spindle, or brake ever.

[dieselguy]

I have a 4th and final question for the supporters of the EZ lube then me and my hard head will give this thread a rest. For general knowledge of others on the fence here ... Just how big a pile of grease do you recommend to be laying on the ground in front of your hub after each greasing to consider the old grease from the rear bearing to be purged thru the hub and on thru the front bearing? Or is this answer dependent upon what is set out to be accomplished?

[rohrmann]

Originally Posted by dieselguy

Several of the owners that "swear it them" (EZ lube hubs) are the ones I've talked to during a visit to a dealership. They are pretty PO'd about the bill for new brakes. No answers to my questions yet ... Plus I have a 3rd question ... how long does it take for you to jack up 4 separate wheels, spin, and get your greasing done to your satisfaction?

We have the 6 point hydraulic leveling system, so it was only a simple push of a button to get the rig off the ground. Our rig was about 6 months old, and we had about 6,000 miles on it, so, not knowing any different, I proceeded to lube the bearings, following the instructions in the Dexter manual to the letter, and yes, it took almost a full tube for each position. Maybe another six months later, decided to check the brakes, as they just didn't seem to be working very well. When I removed the drums, two were totally greased and one was partly greased, with only one dry. It cost about $300 for new backing plate brake assemblies, another $100 to have the drums turned, several 100 mile round trips getting parts and getting the drums turned, plus other minor expenses to complete the job. Well over $500 to do the job, not counting my labor. I decided right then that I could repack the bearings annually for well over the next ten years for less than that one job cost me, and would not have marginal brakes due to grease contamination. I call the E-Z-Lube system the E-Z-Lube brake greasing system, because I have had this experience with it. It only takes a pound container of the best grease, four new seals, some solvent and rags and maybe a couple hours to do the actual work after getting the wheels off, then some time for clean-up and putting things away.

[Dave W]

I do it the old fashioned way and have since --- well as long as I've owned a towed trailer.

There are a couple reasons, well actually more. The first is that it takes at least a full tube of four buck/tube grease to lube those bearing and fill the hub initially. Then if you really want to do it right, you still need to pump at least a half tube of grease back in there every time you get the urge. That discolored grease that you see oozing around the spindle nut washer (yes, the washer, not the Zerk) is only from that outer bearing. You can only guess where that cruddy stuff from the inner bearing goes. Yep, it mixes with the new and helps keep that hub filled plus adds a bit of unsprung weight.

Then there is that seal. It really is not a very good part and the land that it rides on plus the land behind it are pretty small for what they need to do to prevent fouling the brake shoes and magnet surfaces. Take a look at the attached photo. This is a brand new spindle on a 6K axle. Larger are virtually identical and you will see the seal surfaces - the last one before the forging flaw ith the grease hole just in front of that surface. Not noch height to restain a seal - lesss ten .0625 (1/16").

Repacking wheel bearings (and inspecting brakes) is NOT a nice clean project. It does take some time and can be expensive if you are not a DIYer - but still better then sitting along an interstate in West Overshoe on a Saturday evening with a smoking hub.

Your choice on how you want to lube bearings. But as always, the above is only my opinion though based on my many yeras and many miles hauling an RV. I have even gone to the (minor) cost of plugging the wheel's hub caps hole with a part from etrailer.

[footz1941]

Why did you get the drums turned after only 6 k miles and the brakes were well greased

[Texan]

It takes me about 45 minutes to take a wheel off, clean and repack the bearings and add new grease seal and reinstall. From start to finish is about 4 hours which includes torquing the wheels and putting up all the tools and all wheels back on the ground. How can you inspect everything if you don't remove the wheels. I might add this also includes me having to remove the disc rotors which take longer than removing the drums. 4 hours a year can save you a lot of money and know it's done right. The old saying ' don't have time to do it right but have time to do it over' could apply here.EZ lube should be removed from all but boat trailer's as this was what they were designed for to start with.

[shovelhead86]

OK, Y'all talked me into it. I'll pull the drums and do it the tried and true way. done it many times before so will continue to do it that way.

[Arizonacouple]

I'm confused! It costs about $350 for a competent mechanic in an RV shop to grease the wheels, check the brakes and test the system. Why would I do this myself?

[scottz]

Originally Posted by Arizonacouple

I'm confused! It costs about $350 for a competent mechanic in an RV shop to grease the wheels, check the brakes and test the system. Why would I do this myself?

Because I am a competent mechanic and I have a real hard time finding someone that will do as good a job as I will. If I do it, I know it is done right. If you have a competent mechanic you trust, that is great.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by Arizonacouple

I'm confused! It costs about $350 for a competent mechanic in an RV shop to grease the wheels, check the brakes and test the system. Why would I do this myself?

I too have the ability, tools and inclination to do the <4 hour, fifteen - twenty buck job. My choice which of course doesn't fit every one elses needs

[1retired06]

Same logic for me, plus $300 still in my pocket.