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Old 05-13-2018, 07:11 PM   #1
gordo
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Water Heater Fail

New 2018 3130. De-Winterizing , and testing all systems.

I flip the switch for GAS water heater, and get the little red fault light.

Propane full, and open. Plugged in to 110, batteries good, no noise, nothing but the fault light as soon as I flip the switch.

I checked gas flow by turnung on the stove, all good. GRRRRRR. We bought this back in December, but have not used it yet. Fixin to leave this week, but need hot water. ANY ideas????


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Old 05-13-2018, 07:21 PM   #2
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The little red light is not a "fault light". It shows the igniter is attempting to light the water heater burner. Have you opened (slowly) the gas valves on the cylinders and made sure air is out of the system by lighting stove top burners first and letting them burn 1-2 minutes. The WH igniter will try 3 times and lock out if it does not light. Turn the switch off for a few seconds to reset the system and turn it back on to try again. Sometimes it takes 3 or 4 cycles before it lights.
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:25 PM   #3
gordo
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Thanks,
I never heard the igniter, and the light says Fault. Did the propane test as suggested. I'll give it another shot.
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:26 PM   #4
jcurtis934
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The ignition sequence has the light come on, then electronics checks for blower on moving the sail switch internal to the chamber, then gas valve will get 12vdc, and there will be three tries to produce a flame. If none, then it goes into lockout where you have to turn the switch off, then back on for another cycle. If you opened the tank valve too quick it will engage a safety in the tank hose line to the regulator and not enough gas makes it to the water heater. In this case, turn off propane, take hose off tank, put back on, open valve very slowly, and then try another cycle. If you are outside after turning the switch on, you will hear the three attempts to light. It will do this until the air is out of the line.
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcurtis934 View Post
The ignition sequence has the light come on, then electronics checks for blower on moving the sail switch internal to the chamber, then gas valve will get 12vdc, and there will be three tries to produce a flame. If none, then it goes into lockout where you have to turn the switch off, then back on for another cycle. If you opened the tank valve too quick it will engage a safety in the tank hose line to the regulator and not enough gas makes it to the water heater. In this case, turn off propane, take hose off tank, put back on, open valve very slowly, and then try another cycle. If you are outside after turning the switch on, you will hear the three attempts to light. It will do this until the air is out of the line.
The OPs problem is with the water heater not the furnace.
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:38 PM   #6
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I just checked mine and it does say "flt lte" but mine only comes on during ignition attempt and then goes off after WH burner ignites and stays off until ignition required again.
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:45 PM   #7
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Y'all are great! I'll give it another try tomorrow.
Bsed on the experience I had with oour last unit, I am gunshy ...

Thanks again
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:57 PM   #8
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Go outside and remove the WH cover and let someone else try to start the WH. You should definitely hear the spark. If not it might be that the electrode spacing is not correct. Electrode should have a 1/8" gap if a Suburban water heater.

If spacing is correct and no spark, you may have a control board problem.
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:56 AM   #9
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Agree about the spacing on the electrode. The electrode gap was to wide on my fridge and it kept trying to ignite, Cost me 20.00 at an independent mom and pop repair shop while traveling. Even things that are minor can be very aggravating. Good luck.
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Old 05-14-2018, 11:19 AM   #10
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Gordo,

I had a similar issue with mine. It turned out to be a bad electronic board on the back of the water heater.
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Old 05-14-2018, 09:16 PM   #11
gordo
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Gordo,

I had a similar issue with mine. It turned out to be a bad electronic board on the back of the water heater.
Oh damn, I have not even used it yet. Well, I'll check it out this weekend while I prep for our trip to Cali next week.

My wife may have to learn to like cold showers.....I'll let you know...

Thanks again
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Old 05-14-2018, 09:29 PM   #12
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Gordo,

The electric side of mine still worked so no cold showers.
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:40 AM   #13
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You can get plenty of hot water on electric only, assuming you are connected to power.
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Old 05-19-2018, 08:37 PM   #14
gordo
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YAY...
Followed everyones advise, WAITED a few seconds after switch was on, and guess what, THE WATER WORKS.
I guess I'm just paranoid after our last experience, and think the worst. Thanks again for all the help
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