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Old 11-30-2019, 10:45 AM   #41
Creeker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by packnrat View Post
not smaller, now a 25 footer, might buy a 33-36 footer.

was just wondering if a four point is any good with the front legs not part of the leveling system..
ver
a six point where all legs work toward the leveling.

I think you've been misinformed. The front legs of a modern 4 point absolutely do work independently and work with the rears for leveling.
Side to side and back to front. Don't know where you got that from but I can assure you, its bad info.
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Old 11-30-2019, 02:54 PM   #42
RKassl
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A yes they do!!!
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Old 12-01-2019, 02:12 PM   #43
Scootsk
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First time with auto levelers on our 2019 Montana. What a great convenience feature. Absolutely love them.
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Old 12-01-2019, 02:59 PM   #44
saber707
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Electric level system works great. Would never have another without it.
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Old 12-01-2019, 03:01 PM   #45
saber707
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Front legs do work with electric level system. Don't know how that story got started.
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Old 12-01-2019, 03:06 PM   #46
Bfisher003
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Our 2019 Montana 3121RL has two 15K A/Cs (one with a heat pump) and six point hydraulic auto level. As others have said the auto level makes set up fast and easy. We have over 12,000 miles on ours and never had any problems with the hydraulics and have never had to add fluid. We love it! The empty weight on our Montana is right at 12,000 lbs, trip loaded and on the CAT scales twice we are right at 14,280 lbs. We tow it with a F350 diesel.
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Old 12-01-2019, 03:42 PM   #47
StageCoachDriver
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I've got a HC305RL. My second unit with auto leveling. Not sure you can buy a 2020 Monty without auto leveling. As everyone else has said, it's the only way to go. I have leveled both of my units with wheels off the ground and never had any problems. Also, a great way to change a tire on the rig if needed.
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Old 12-01-2019, 03:46 PM   #48
phillyg
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I wouldn't have a FW without auto-leveling.
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Old 12-01-2019, 03:47 PM   #49
laverdur
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I upgraded to hydraulic leveling done at Lippert Service Center and I love it. No troubles other than it tries too hard some times and ends up lifting the low side wheels off the ground. When that happens, I just switch over to manual leveling and drop the whole rig so that the low side tires are on the ground. Very easy and quick. I wouldn't go anywhere warm without my two A/C units. I highly recommend that you check your TV GVWR on the B pillar tag. You may find that the newer montys will overload your truck. I had a 2006 F-250 diesel with a GVWR of 10,000 lbs and it was overloaded with my monty.
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Old 12-01-2019, 04:01 PM   #50
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I have only had mine a short time.. 4 months. But, never any errors with the electric jacks. They will lift the tires off the ground. 2nd A/C nice to have, add if it you can afterward and get one that uses less electric.
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Old 12-01-2019, 04:44 PM   #51
rleblanc
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We have the electric 6 point leveling on our High Country. We will never own another without it. As far as air conditioning, being from South Louisiana, we really need 3 on a 375 FL on the summer trips. Itís all relative as to where you camp.
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Old 12-01-2019, 06:22 PM   #52
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Towing with F250

I have a 2017 Montana 3160RL. The specs show the shipping weight at 11935, and GVW 16,000 lbs. I have the auto leveling auto jacks and love it. No problems. I would never go back to self leveling.
When I first purchased the trailer, I towed it with a 2011 Ford, F250, short bed Gross towing weight 15700 lbs. All my research indicated the F250 would pull it okay. The first time I towed with the F250, it did not feel right to me. I was getting more sway than I was used to. The real clincher for me though, was the truck towing capacity was 300 lbs below the max weight of the trailer loaded I asked for opinions on this sight and most everyone agreed the truck could handle the weight. One individual made a comment that convinced me to reconsider. He said the only other thing to consider is if I was involved in an accident, all the law enforcement and lawyers would look at was what the tow vehicle and trailer specs indicated towing capacity was. If the truck was rated lower than the trailer, that could be a problem in a law suit. I didn't chance it. I sold my F250 and purchased a 2017 F350 long bed. I am very happy with the larger capacity truck and the long bed. Much easier to hook up and unhook. I hope this helps.
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Old 12-01-2019, 06:39 PM   #53
mtjtb
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I have the hydraulic 6 point system in my 2015 3610RL and 2 A/C units. There is no chance I would ever have a trailer without these.
Being able to leave the 2x6" leveling boards behind is great and setting up take a third of the time.
As to the A/C issue. I live a lot of the year in AZ, my previous single A/C Mountaneer would never cool down.
Life is good with these improvements.
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Old 12-01-2019, 07:14 PM   #54
Schautzie
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We have a 2011 3400RL and we had the level up put on since at that time they were not standard. We love it. As we get older anything that helps us is worth the money and extra weight.
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Old 12-02-2019, 01:10 AM   #55
Clarky
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Auto levellers are absolutely amazing, used them for 3 years on our Montana 3660 RL and never had any issues. As for your tow capacity, a quick check of the 2008 Specs for the F250 6.4L diesel SRW indicates a max tow weight of 12,500. If you are already at a dry weight of 11,100 it leaves you with 1400 lbs of "cargo" you can add to your trailer. That 1400 can be used up pretty quick if your not careful. Propane, water, waste tanks, food, etc, etc. The Engine is very capable of towing more weight but it is the brake size and axle limitations that dictate the LEGAL spec from Ford. To add, there are other considerations that are just as important as well such as your pin weight and overall gross vehicle weight limitations. You can find the Gross vehicle weight ratio (GVWR) door pillar on the driver side. You should also find your Gross Combined Weight ratio (GCWR) in your owners manual. Once you have those figures from the factory sticker you should then go to a weigh station with your normal load and verify tow vehicle front axle weight, tow vehicle rear axle weight and trailer axles weight. Front + Rear will give you your actual GVWR. Front + Rear + Trailer will give you your GCWR. This is the only true way to verify if you are loaded correctly and within legal limits. Opinions are fine but you should verify for yourself. This way you would be confident in your load and sleep better at night. If you have any other questions to assist you in determining your set-up or future set-up just post again. I am new in here so ill check back again soon.
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Old 12-02-2019, 04:47 AM   #56
Frank64
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The auto levelers are a must. One of the best option s on our trailer
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Old 12-02-2019, 10:17 AM   #57
Zinnman
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When we were shopping in 2014 if the unit DID NOT have the leveling legs we gave it no consideration.



We have been all over from Florida to Alaska and they worked well every time. An added plus for us was when we had a blowout, the leveling legs easily lifts the unit for changing tires.
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Old 12-02-2019, 10:46 AM   #58
Gpwagner
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We have a 2019 MS3811 with the six point hydraulic system. Absolutely love it. Wouldn't own another unit without it. No issues thus far, Once you release from truck, one button and walk away. We also have the second air. The gross weight with all is fine for our truck.
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Old 12-02-2019, 11:11 AM   #59
barryn
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Our 2nd Montana 3710 RL 2015.
Hydraulic 6 point level up system has, hydraulic lines, hydraulic cylinders , hydraulic motor with reservoir, and a hydraulic manifold with electric DC solenoids and pressure limit switches and is controlled by a small computer or brain box with two electric levelers, one in front and one in back of the RV. Hydraulics is very simple, people that don't understand it may run to extended warranty etc.. Just get in touch with Lippert tec. and they can help you with your needs. More stuff on RV's means more repair when broken. I will choose a hydraulic shop for the cheapest repair cost. Plus these people know way more than camping world. One hyd. cylinder $500 plus $500 to remove and install. Remove yourself or hire an after hour maintenance guy and have hydraulic shop repair an your total cost $400 out the door, "cash". Hydraulic pump with reservoir $700 just for the part. So it is what it is, you want to play you going to pay. I could go into way more details, so bottom line you always go with what you can afford. Some people think and do well by selling their home and living full time. But remember one day a permanent address is coming back. Some save money, most don't or are most miserable. Do your research before you jump. I knew this one couple , they traded their RV and because they had "NO Permanent address" they had the hardest time getting Loan and Insurance and when they did it was NOT the lowest. We travel and save some but spend a lot, to us it's a vacation. Can't live on a cruse ship the rest of your life, but you can RV for 6 months out of the year an see the Beautiful USA.
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Old 12-02-2019, 01:46 PM   #60
Twtudor
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Az traveler we have the same year and model as you. Ours is in the shop for the 4th time because the slides keep popping out while driving and sitting. And the last time it happened we were on the road and the levelers came down on their own, we almost busted them off. Have you had any of these problems?
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