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Old 03-16-2019, 11:12 AM   #1
BiggarView
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlh View Post

...There are far too many 3/4 ton trucks pulling fifth wheel campers for all of them to be unsafe, including mine.
Lynwood
Only safe until they have an issue. Then the outcome will not be pretty. Why tempt fate when you know you can mitigate the chances of a catastrophic failure.

You may be lucky and never have an issue... but relatively speaking the odds are against you when you operate out on the edge.
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Old 03-12-2019, 05:51 PM   #2
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Welcome to the forum! Congratulations, you struck an artery right away. You have heard both sides of an issue that we all like to speak our opinions about. Good for you for doing research. It sounds like you understand safety. Hopefully you didn't run those nukes beyond specs like some load their trucks.
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Old 03-21-2019, 05:24 PM   #3
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Hahaha on the nukes. They are the best! No carbon footprint.

We purchased a 2019 Montana High Country 313RL, within the limits of our 2500HD Duramax diesel.

Happy Camping!
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Old 03-12-2019, 05:51 PM   #4
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John, i have a 2500 pulling 3121 and with no major issues. My payload is 3013. We are over weigh just not for sure how much. Will run it over a cat scale this year, to find out just how much.

will upgrade to DRW in the future
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Old 03-12-2019, 06:59 PM   #5
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Hi John, Im going to give you my two cents based on the facts that I used to sell GM vehicles and that I own a 2014 non dually 2500 HD. I also tow a 42 ft fifth wheel with it. Everyone telling you they are the same truck as a 3500 are correct. With the diff being the leaf springs. All I did was take it to have one additional set of leaf springs added to increase the box weight capacity. That increased the box capacity to an extra 1000 lbs. Cost me around $400 to do it. That being said, I will also agree that a dually would be safer and more stable to tow with. Also to make a point, I read a comment about a non dually truck having more trouble stopping. This is not totally true as EVERY campers own breaks MUST have the ability to stop its total rated weight all on its own. If you have your trailer brakes set correctly, the trailer brakes will handle its own weight. Go the route with your truck that makes you comfortable. Either way will do the job.
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil and JoAnn View Post
Hi John, Im going to give you my two cents based on the facts that I used to sell GM vehicles and that I own a 2014 non dually 2500 HD. I also tow a 42 ft fifth wheel with it. Everyone telling you they are the same truck as a 3500 are correct. With the diff being the leaf springs. All I did was take it to have one additional set of leaf springs added to increase the box weight capacity. That increased the box capacity to an extra 1000 lbs. Cost me around $400 to do it. That being said, I will also agree that a dually would be safer and more stable to tow with. Also to make a point, I read a comment about a non dually truck having more trouble stopping. This is not totally true as EVERY campers own breaks MUST have the ability to stop its total rated weight all on its own. If you have your trailer brakes set correctly, the trailer brakes will handle its own weight. Go the route with your truck that makes you comfortable. Either way will do the job.
I would recommend not traveling that rig through the central CA coast. The CHP red tags 2500's pulling oversized trailers regardless of modifications to the truck. Not to mention the lawyers that deal with overloaded trucks.
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:40 AM   #7
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I would recommend not traveling that rig through the central CA coast. The CHP red tags 2500's pulling oversized trailers regardless of modifications to the truck. Not to mention the lawyers that deal with overloaded trucks.

they tend to look for triple axle trailers with major squat. CHP rancho Cucamonga I have friends on the inside lol.
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Old 03-13-2019, 11:52 AM   #8
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and off to the races

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil and JoAnn View Post
Hi John, Im going to give you my two cents based on the facts that I used to sell GM vehicles and that I own a 2014 non dually 2500 HD. I also tow a 42 ft fifth wheel with it. Everyone telling you they are the same truck as a 3500 are correct. With the diff being the leaf springs. All I did was take it to have one additional set of leaf springs added to increase the box weight capacity. That increased the box capacity to an extra 1000 lbs. Cost me around $400 to do it. That being said, I will also agree that a dually would be safer and more stable to tow with. Also to make a point, I read a comment about a non dually truck having more trouble stopping. This is not totally true as EVERY campers own breaks MUST have the ability to stop its total rated weight all on its own. If you have your trailer brakes set correctly, the trailer brakes will handle its own weight. Go the route with your truck that makes you comfortable. Either way will do the job.
I woudn`t bet on this.
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Old 03-13-2019, 01:57 PM   #9
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bshgto - Now looking at a lighter unit than the Montana, but one that will get the job done. Disappointed. Really was getting excited about the Montana 3121RL. Oh well, life goes on.
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Old 03-14-2019, 08:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil and JoAnn View Post
Hi John, Im going to give you my two cents based on the facts that I used to sell GM vehicles and that I own a 2014 non dually 2500 HD. I also tow a 42 ft fifth wheel with it. Everyone telling you they are the same truck as a 3500 are correct. With the diff being the leaf springs. All I did was take it to have one additional set of leaf springs added to increase the box weight capacity. That increased the box capacity to an extra 1000 lbs. Cost me around $400 to do it. That being said, I will also agree that a dually would be safer and more stable to tow with. Also to make a point, I read a comment about a non dually truck having more trouble stopping. This is not totally true as EVERY campers own breaks MUST have the ability to stop its total rated weight all on its own. If you have your trailer brakes set correctly, the trailer brakes will handle its own weight. Go the route with your truck that makes you comfortable. Either way will do the job.

I understand where your coming from and your logic but respectfully take issue with it:

While it may be true that the trailer brakes are supposed to stop the trailer all by themselves, I don't think I have ever seen a trailer brake setup (at least from the factory) that I would trust 100% and for sure you can bet they won't stop the trailer in a reasonable distance. Granted I can see where this may be a little different story with an aftermarket disc brake setup and I am certainly in favor of that improvement!

My arguments in favor of DRW still stand as:

DRW LOADED will logically stop shorter and more stable than an SRW. DRW has a third more rubber on the road and the wider stance is for certain more stable. Yes unloaded in the rain a DRW is more likely to skid when braking at high speed but any reasonable person would gladly trade that for better braking and more control under LOADED conditions.

DRW spreads the LOAD across a third more tires. If there is any real reason to choose the DRW this has to be it. You can say all you want about tow weight ratings but I challenge anyone to argue this one isn't true.

I know everyone's circumstances are not alike and that some folks need the larger camper but can't afford the larger tow vehicle. Someone who has to full time (such as construction workers who stay for extended time frames in other states) buying more camper than their tow vehicle should tow is one thing. BUT I don't think we should advise folks who are new to towing and plan to tow a lot of miles to match an undersized tow vehicle to a large trailer. In fact, it may well open us up to litigation to do so. Lets adopt a policy of advising people what would be safe for certain. If they decide to go with less that's on them.

Hurricane survivor "It isn't just that the wind is blowing, its what the wind is blowing around. Like that Volvo"!
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:06 PM   #11
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Interesting. What is a DRW?
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:08 PM   #12
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Dual rear wheels
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:11 PM   #13
John McLean
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Brian,

Based on my research and what I have learned in a short amount of time, I would recommend you check your load weights for your coach and what you should be able to SAFELY tow. I'm just sayin'.
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Old 03-17-2019, 06:10 PM   #14
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Look at your insurance policies for both your truck and your rig. If it's not according to spec requirements you could be in jeopardy of voiding your policy in the event of a wreck.
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:09 PM   #15
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srw single rear wheel
drw dual rear wheels.. i e dually
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:13 PM   #16
John McLean
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Dually. Got it. Don't know the lingo.
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:17 PM   #17
Phil and JoAnn
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One other thing I feel I should mention about trucks. As the trucks get newer, they tend to increase in their towing and weight capacity. They do this to compete with each other. What you can tow with today may not be true in a truck that is older. Always check on this before you bye.
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Old 03-13-2019, 05:59 AM   #18
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mlh said it all. stop overthinking everything. just the 5th wheel if you want it and the truck will pull it.


but, if you are rich and worried, buy a F450 to cover it, gee a new one is only $75-80K out the door.
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:12 AM   #19
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mazboy,

We are not rich, but are concerned about having too much coach for our truck. So, we are going in a different direction that doesn't involve a new tow vehicle.

Received lots of good comments and advice.

Thanks everyone that contributed.
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:55 AM   #20
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John I don’t know if anyone said this, you have a nice truck.
Lynwood
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