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Old 06-30-2019, 07:15 PM   #21
phillyg
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M.O.C. #17801
Disconnect the red and black wires from the negative post. Install a knife switch on the post, and reinstall the red and black wires on the other knife switch terminal. Don't know who installed your cables, but it's wrong to have a red wire to a negative post, and note the red wire to positive post is retaped as black. Makes no sense, but as long as they're working, I'd just do the knife switch.
 
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Old 07-01-2019, 09:42 AM   #22
Sandra_David
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M.O.C. #20440
I like your use of the tote for the batteries.
Going to get and use a few more of those stackable tires, one for the batteries.
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Old 07-03-2019, 04:01 AM   #23
DebNJim B
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M.O.C. #21158
Quote:
Originally Posted by drschaaf View Post
I don't have a residential fridge, mine runs on propane/ac. To the best of my knowledge I don't have an inverter. I could be wrong, but from other posts I have seen it sounds like there are typically fuses for an inverter on the circuit panel. My panel justs has breakers/fuses for the usual components (see pic).

Just a couple of more notes. The second red cable that has the black heat sink coating on it that's attached to the positive post - is the one that pulled out of its spade that was causing the problems with my jacks to error out, so I'm guessing they are fed directly from the battery via that connection.

The second red cable on the negative post goes back through a hole in the bulkhead. I would have to figure out a way to get at it to see where it goes, but I'm wondering if that might be to complete the circuit for the jacks?
I would just disconnect that red wire at the negative post and see what stops working if anything. Then you know where it goes without trying to trace it all over.
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