Grease guns

[boje]

Just curious as to what kind of gun you use on the zerks.

[CamillaMichael]

For our landing gear, we need one with a flex nozzle...manual, of course.

[Ozz]

I use the small gun as well as the big grease gun. For the Montana, the large one, for my mower and small jobs, the small one.
Using either one, I always get grease all over me....

[8.1al]

I have a large on with a trigger and a hose, lets me pump while holding nozzle on the fitting if need be. I use it on the zerks for the suspension but NEVER the EZ lube axles

[8e3k0]

Pack the large one made for John Deere with the John Deere name and equiped with a flex hose; I use red sythetic grease on the wet bolts and other needed areas but not the E-Z Lube hubs.

[deadeye]

As far as grease guns go, I have three different kinds in the shop. I have two manual, one squeeze handle and one lever handle. I also have an air operated one. I like the squeeze handle the best. I have John Deere corn head type grease in it. Don't break down from heat. Buy it at John Deere dealer parts department. Only my opinion though....JB

[mopar1]

Okay I'll bite, why not the E-Z lube hubs?

[NCFischers]

It's too easy to unknowingly push grease past the rear seals and contaminate the brakes.

[Ozz]

Is there any published information on this, or are we referring to anecdotal stories. It seems to me that a certain amount of internal hydraulic pressure would be required to displace the grease inside, and move it out to be replaced by new grease. When you watch the 'cartoon' they published, they do not caveat a large grease gun. My Keystone dealer service manager told me to just give it a "couple of pumps" I knew that was bogus.
I looked it up:
The Dexter service manual states "Use a standard grease gun" and rotate the wheel when greasing. They do state to use a compatible grease, and list the grease types.
If a person had bad spring seals, the grease would leak out, but I don't see it makes any difference which gun you use.
(Based on what I have been able to research)

[8e3k0]

For the E-Z Lube hubs: The simple answer is; they are lubed so why add grease and blow a seal. In my engineering days in large Power Plants I have seen more bearings damaged because of excessive greasing resulting in bearing temperature because there is no air space left in and around the bearing/shaft components. This increase in grease/beraing temp normally ruptures the bearing seal. We removed all zerks whenever repacing new bearings and never had problems after that.
Majority of automotive and Agricultural equipment have eliminated zerks, especially in specific areas of suspension and driveline components.
Sometimes hard for us ole boys to accept, as we were accustomed to greasing at a frequency; ie daily, hourly etc.

[Illini Trekker]

I only grease my wet bolt and use a marine grease for them. No need to grease bearing with the annual cleaning and repacking of the bearings.

[8.1al]

I have carefully used Dexters instructions to grease the EZ lube on 2 trailers with the same results. Grease on the brake shoes, and as 8e3k0 has pointed out, too much grease is not good, you need somewhere for the excess grease to go from the bearing. If you follow Dexters instructions the cavity between the inner and outer bearings are full of grease. When the inner bearing heats up and it will since it is full of grease, the seal may fail. I've been there, done that, and will never again will I use those EZ lube fittings

[Ozz]

Well, the way I see the diagram, the grease goes in the center, around the end and back up and out the top. I imagine when they grease them they fill them up, so there is no space in there now. They engineered it this way for a complete bearing pack when you grease them.
One would hope that they know what they are doing.
http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/1080235/f/..._Lube_3-09.pdf

[Ozz]

OK, I went to Dexter. I talked with Rick Capsa, he said all the correct information is in the service manual, to be precise when lubing the spindle, you can pump slowly, let the grease come out gradually, and wait a bit to put the cap on until all the old grease you displaced oozes out. And turn the wheel while doing the job...like the manual says.
Maybe this is where the urban myth came from, on where using the big gun is verboten. Just don't act like you are stomping snakes when doing the job. (My words..)

I also asked about the brakes. I read where the 7K axle has different brakes (talking about shoes now) He said in order to comply with some rating, the pads use a little different compound, the compounds are FF, GG, HH, like that. He said the 7K uses a little stronger magnet than the 6K, but he said the operator probably would not be able to tell the difference, and stopping would not be much different either. I know the new ones are self-adjusting, which is nice.
So, there you are folks.

[8.1al]

I really don't care what Dexter says, I have carefully followed their instructions to no avail. I repaired, rebuilt precision machinery for 35 years and built my own race cars and I do know a little about greasing. All I can say is EZ lube doesn't work for me and I sincerly hope that anyone that uses the EZ lube has better luck.

P.S.
Dexter also recommends you pull your drums yearly to check your bearings and brakes so if a person were to do that why take a chance with the grease gun?

[Ozz]

I respect your opinion, I'm just telling everyone what Dexter recommends, I would think with tens of thousands of their products out there, if it needed to be done another way, they would change how they service them, and change the service manual.

[8.1al]

You're right Jim, I must be the unlucky one, don't stand close to me when there's lightning around

[Ozz]

I would stand beside you any time, any where.
As a matter of fact, it might be good for you, I am usually the one something like that happens to.

[8e3k0]

Through my travels these past two winters from the north to the south in snowbirding there are many owners of E-Z lube axles that have had both bearing and brake problems. If packed right at the factory there is no need to lube bearings for 15,000 miles plus. How many times does one repack front wheel bearings on an auto? Also, no two people use that grease gun the same way and if there is any obstruction of the grease exiting it will then find its easiest path out the seal and down into the brake drum when or while the brakes warm up.

[SlickWillie]

quote:Originally posted by 8e3k0

Through my travels these past two winters from the north to the south in snowbirding there are many owners of E-Z lube axles that have had both bearing and brake problems. If packed right at the factory there is no need to lube bearings for 15,000 miles plus. How many times does one repack front wheel bearings on an auto? Also, no two people use that grease gun the same way and if there is any obstruction of the grease exiting it will then find its easiest path out the seal and down into the brake drum when or while the brakes warm up.

I've put lots of miles on those front wheel bearings. I don't ever recall having to repack one other than on the old Ford when I had to get the front rotors turned. I am a believer that pulling wheels and packing bearing often leads to contamination and premature failure. I do realize one needs to check the brakes on occasion, but, I would do that strictly on mileage. Heck our unit is four years old and never had the drums off. I may check them before our next trip...but we don't have over 6K miles on the rig.