Replacingslideout ram & hydraulic pump

[CORattler]

I took my RV to a RV repair guy and he gave me a estimate of $2200 to R &R the bedroom slide out actuator and the hyd pump (I have slide creep when it's cold out & the RV is in storage).
Does anyone have a source for these parts at a reasonable cost?
Thanks!

[awaywego]

this is the Lippert page for new cylinders.

http://store.lci1.com/hydraulic-slid...nders-c42.aspx

[dieselguy]

Since the bedroom slideout cylinder is easily accessed as well as the hyd lines, I'd isolate the cylinder and determine which is at fault ... cyl or pump. No use in buying something on a guess. Unless someone else has found a vendor source for the cylinders, we're pretty much stuck with pricey OEM. Take a look at the second half of this document. BE SURE YOU PRESS RETRACT IF YOU TROUBLESHOOT!The extend port is the one at the foot of your bed. The bad thing is, any one of your 3 cylinders could be the cause of creep due to system design ... the bedroom being the lightest and smallest normally creeps out first.
http://www.lci1.com/images/Flyers/LI...inder-test.pdf

[HamRad]

quote:Originally posted by CORattler

I took my RV to a RV repair guy and he gave me a estimate of $2200 to R &R the bedroom slide out actuator and the hyd pump (I have slide creep when it's cold out & the RV is in storage).
Does anyone have a source for these parts at a reasonable cost?
Thanks!

Wow! Jay that sounds really expensive. Creep is often something as simple as a loose connection or bad seal. Since your rig is in storage and you're not in a hurry I'd look around for someone else to take a look. Or do it yourself. Even if you have to replace both the pump and cylinder I'd think you could get it done more reasonably. Good luck. Dennis

[MIMF]

The first thing I'd do is make sure ther is enough ATF in the pump reservoir then, pressurize the system with the pump in the retract position and immediately close the IRC valve for that slide. If the bed slide still creeps out, and none of the others do, then it is the cylinder that's bad. If the pump is bad or, the system has an air bubble, you should see signs of at least one other room creeping open.

[Art-n-Marge]

I think a company tries to provide the highest estimate possible if they cannot determine the cause which is why $2,200 is given. If you are lucky, sometimes they will drop the price if the reality is not that bad. On the other hand if it's gonna be higher, then they are supposed to tell you first to get your approval. The worst part of all this is the work is done to make a profit which helps drive the price up.

In my case, I don't have the tools or patience to do this. However, knowing what is needed and how things work helps understand what they will be repairing. I have met plenty of mechanics who change their language when they figure out you are not an ignorant customer.

[dieselguy]

Obviously I don't know every detail of Jay's dealings with his issue and the RV tech, but when the initial quoted repair of this issue includes both a cylinder and pump ... you can darned well bet he's just guessing. I witness this stuff almost weekly ... it just makes me fuming mad because most people just don't know any different and many businesses make a living off that fact. For instance, say the pump goes on first and it ends up being a cylinder ... that pump will stay on and be part of the bill. Once installed, a shop seldom back paddles on parts. OK .. I'll step off the podium and wait to wipe the egg off my face should both items be at fault in the end.