Converter Problem

[Mickey]

My IOTA converter (DSL) quit during our last outing. I pulled the battery and took it to be tested, and then replaced the battery. I hooked up a 3-Stage, DC charger to the new battery and ran the 5er DC system since the DSL would not keep the battery charged. I pulled the IOTA distribution panel (IDP) out to get to the converter, and the space is PACKED with wires, as you might suspect. The only access I found to the converter on our 2006, 3400RL is by removing the IDP located over the shelf in the bathroom, an awkward place to get to. IOTA recommends some tests to see if the DSL is the problem, or a fuse problem.

Any recommendations on accessing and servicing the DSL?

Electrical repairs are definitely not my strength, but neither is it a strength of my local Keystone dealer, based on a couple of previous experiences when the unit was under warranty.

[Ozz]

What chain of events transpired when the converter appearantly failed? On hook-up to the campground power? Or do you not know whenit failed?
Did you hook up the 3 stage charger to the system with the converter in line?
Check the fuses in the converter. I'll see if I can find my IOTA website.

[rogue]

Mickey, If you can find which wires run to the Battery, maybe remove them at the battery and check what voltage is going from the converter to the battery. Also some of the converters come with a small plug like jumper. This jumper is ment to be used for rapid charging. If you are getting no or low (below 13vdc) you amy want to see if you can reach the plug and install it, then test the voltage again it should be about 14.2 vdc. If neither give you any voltage, check the fuses.
If good voltage with the plug and bad with out, the converter is probably bad and needs to be replaced.

Hope this helps

[Ozz]

Converter (Battery charger and 12 volt power supply)
Your converter is a 55 amp. (Medium size) 15 amps to 90 amps; with a rapid charge capability.
It comes with a male plastic phone type jack taped to the unit that, when inserted, will provide a temporary rapid charge for your 12 volt storage system. (single, or multiple 12 volt batteries, or an even number of Golf Cart batteries . Normal 13.6, to 14.2 fast charge.
This is a temporary mode of operation, as it would boil, or overcharge if left in. Useful for a quick charge need.
It’s maximum amp draw is 15 amps. (A/C)
If you blow fuses, look for reverse polarity, these fuses are designed for that.
Your converter has built in protection from:
Voltage spikes
Low line voltage (power from the main, coming in to the RV) Sometimes referred to as ‘Brown out’
Your converter can be used with, OR without a battery connected with no adverse effects.
All and all a pretty sophisticated piece of equipment.
Read up on the IQ Smart charger option;
http://www.iotaengineering.com/iq.htm
Ozz

[firetrucker]

I cut an access hole above the washer/dryer closet by the entry door and used a spring loaded cover (like used for access to the back of the shower controls in a stick house). The cover can be painted, papered, etc. and gives easy access to the converter. Pulling the distribution center out is much more than a pain. The panelling is thin and splinters easily.

Bob

[Ozz]

Good move, Bob. That is on my to do list.

[Mickey]

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. In response to a couple of questions:
• We set up the 5er at the RV camp and about 24 hours later noticed that our lights (DC) in the camper were getting dim. There were no electrical issues with the camp ground system that we ere aware of. Other campers did not have a problem. I initially hooked up my truck to run the DC system off the truck batteries. Next day I bought a new battery and a charger and plugged the charger into the camp site 120V, 15A receptacle.

•Following is IOTA’s trouble shooting guide:
DLS TROUBLESHOOTING STEPS
In situations where the battery is not charging, or you wish to confirm that the DLS is functioning properly, follow these diagnostic procedures:

1) Check the DLS fuses near the fan. If the fuses are not blown, proceed to step #2.

2) Unplug the DLS and check the electrical box for 120VAC output.

3) With the DLS unplugged, disconnect the positive lead from the DLS. Be careful not to touch the wire to the ground.

4) Plug the DLS into the 120VAC and measure the DC output. The output voltage should be 13.6VDC. A correct voltage indicates the DLS is functioning properly.

5) If the voltage is incorrect, contact the IOTA Technical Support staff for assistance.

• IOTA’s web site for RV equipment is:
http://www.iotaengineering.com/power.htm

[nkwist]

When mine first failed (like your symptoms), I had to replace the top fuse. A couple of weeks later, the fuse blew again. I replaced it with a self-resetting fuse from NAPA for $7. This worked for a while but by now the converter was only putting out about 10.8 volts. I used a small battery charger to finish the trip with it supplying 12+ volts through the battery.

It seems the internal voltage regulator in the converter failed and I eventually replaced the converter, now everything is back to normal.