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Old 02-08-2019, 03:25 PM   #1
Joe Hollars
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Winterizing with Air

I am tired of winterizing with antifreeze after every trip in the winter. I just got an adapter from the dealer to use my air pump.
I would like members to advise on how they winterize with air. Sometimes I'm a little slow so step by step would be really nice.
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Old 02-08-2019, 04:24 PM   #2
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Hi Joe. I don’t have a washer so I don’t haft to worry about that.
I set my small compressor to about 40 pounds. I have a hose adapter with a female end that adapts to my compressor on the other end. I pressure all the lines including the hot water tank and blowout all the lines and leave the compressor hooked up but not plugged up. Just in case one of the lines should burst. I never leave a compressor hooked up. I think it isn’t safe. I go by the camper every day and blow the lines out several times to make sure there is no water in any line.
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Old 02-08-2019, 04:29 PM   #3
Joe Hollars
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Hi Joe. I don’t have a washer so I don’t haft to worry about that.
I set my small compressor to about 40 pounds. I have a hose adapter with a female end that adapts to my compressor on the other end. I pressure all the lines including the hot water tank and blowout all the lines and leave the compressor hooked up but not plugged up. Just in case one of the lines should burst. I never leave a compressor hooked up. I think it isn’t safe. I go by the camper every day and blow the lines out several times to make sure there is no water in any line.
Lynwood



Thank you for your reply. That is about what I was thinking. I think once at the campground and once when I park should be enough. Why do you pressurize the hot water tank? Just asking cause I don't know.
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Old 02-08-2019, 04:53 PM   #4
rslopez65
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Here is the procedure we have used for the past 11 years with no problems. Hope this helps.


WINTERIZING CHECKLIST (COMPRESSED AIR METHOD)


CAUTION: DO NOT EXCEED 30 PSI AIR PRESSURE!!!

ENSURE THE HOLDING TANKS HAVE BEEN EMPTIED AT AN APPROVED WASTE WATER DUMP STATION PRIOR TO BEGINNING.

1. Connect the special hose adapter to the “BLACK TANK FLUSH” input of the trailer and the other end to the air compressor. Blow out the BLACK TANK FLUSH line.

2. Open the LOW POINT drains and all the faucets in the trailer including the outside shower and allow them to drain. Close all the interior faucets and outside shower.

3. Open the valve for the FRESH WATER tank and allow it to drain completely. Once completely empty, turn the WATER PUMP “ON” for about 30 seconds to clear any water from the suction lines and pump.

WARNING: ENSURE THE WATER IN THE WATER HEATER TANK IS COOL BEFORE PROCEEDING TO STEP 4!!!

4. Verify the WATER HEATER is OFF, both gas and electric, then remove the drain plug and open the PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE to allow the tank to drain. After completely empty, turn the WATER HEATER BYPASS VALVE to the “BYPASS” position.

5. If equipped with a water filter, remove and discard the cartridge. Drain the water from the cartridge holder and reinstall.

6. Connect the special hose adapter to the FRESH WATER INLET of the trailer and the other end to the air compressor. Open each faucet one at a time and blow out the water lines until no water can be seen coming out of any of the fixtures and lines.

7. Hold open the toilet valve to allow the water to clear from the toilet supply line.

8. Open the diverter valve on the shower faucet to clear the water from the shower hose and head. Do the same for the outside shower (if equipped).

9A. If no washer/dryer is installed: Open the hot and cold valves to allow water to clear the supply lines. Use a suitable container to catch the water.

9B. If equipped with a washer/dryer: Turn the washer on to the fill cycle and select the warm water setting. Allow air to blow through the lines until no water comes through.

10. Pour about 1 quart of RV Anti-Freeze in to each drain, p-trap and toilet (including the washer drain). Leave a little anti-freeze in the toilet bowl to maintain the air seal.

11. Once all water is removed from the lines and tanks, close all lines, faucets and valves to the system.

12. Reinstall the WATER HEATER drain plug and close the PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE. A sign by the ON/OFF for the WATER HEATER switches is a good idea to remind you and others the tank is empty.

13. Remove the air compressor adapter from the freshwater inlet.
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Old 02-08-2019, 04:58 PM   #5
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Why do I pressureize the hot water tank, cause it’s there. Seriously it’s easier to pressurize than to turn the buypass valve and that is 6 more gallons or air. I have a ball valve on the outlet and I blow air out of it too.
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Old 02-08-2019, 07:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rslopez65 View Post
Here is the procedure we have used for the past 11 years with no problems. Hope this helps.


WINTERIZING CHECKLIST (COMPRESSED AIR METHOD)


CAUTION: DO NOT EXCEED 30 PSI AIR PRESSURE!!!

ENSURE THE HOLDING TANKS HAVE BEEN EMPTIED AT AN APPROVED WASTE WATER DUMP STATION PRIOR TO BEGINNING.

1. Connect the special hose adapter to the “BLACK TANK FLUSH” input of the trailer and the other end to the air compressor. Blow out the BLACK TANK FLUSH line.

2. Open the LOW POINT drains and all the faucets in the trailer including the outside shower and allow them to drain. Close all the interior faucets and outside shower.

3. Open the valve for the FRESH WATER tank and allow it to drain completely. Once completely empty, turn the WATER PUMP “ON” for about 30 seconds to clear any water from the suction lines and pump.

WARNING: ENSURE THE WATER IN THE WATER HEATER TANK IS COOL BEFORE PROCEEDING TO STEP 4!!!

4. Verify the WATER HEATER is OFF, both gas and electric, then remove the drain plug and open the PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE to allow the tank to drain. After completely empty, turn the WATER HEATER BYPASS VALVE to the “BYPASS” position.

5. If equipped with a water filter, remove and discard the cartridge. Drain the water from the cartridge holder and reinstall.

6. Connect the special hose adapter to the FRESH WATER INLET of the trailer and the other end to the air compressor. Open each faucet one at a time and blow out the water lines until no water can be seen coming out of any of the fixtures and lines.

7. Hold open the toilet valve to allow the water to clear from the toilet supply line.

8. Open the diverter valve on the shower faucet to clear the water from the shower hose and head. Do the same for the outside shower (if equipped).

9A. If no washer/dryer is installed: Open the hot and cold valves to allow water to clear the supply lines. Use a suitable container to catch the water.

9B. If equipped with a washer/dryer: Turn the washer on to the fill cycle and select the warm water setting. Allow air to blow through the lines until no water comes through.

10. Pour about 1 quart of RV Anti-Freeze in to each drain, p-trap and toilet (including the washer drain). Leave a little anti-freeze in the toilet bowl to maintain the air seal.

11. Once all water is removed from the lines and tanks, close all lines, faucets and valves to the system.

12. Reinstall the WATER HEATER drain plug and close the PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE. A sign by the ON/OFF for the WATER HEATER switches is a good idea to remind you and others the tank is empty.

13. Remove the air compressor adapter from the freshwater inlet.

Very through. Thank you so much for your reply
Joe
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Old 02-08-2019, 07:23 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by mlh View Post
Why do I pressureize the hot water tank, cause it’s there. Seriously it’s easier to pressurize than to turn the buypass valve and that is 6 more gallons or air. I have a ball valve on the outlet and I blow air out of it too.
Lynwood



Good deal. I really didn't know. Thank you for your reply.
Joe
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Old 02-20-2019, 06:54 PM   #8
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I have repaired way to many busted water lines on way to many campers from people that blew there lines out and thought all was good. IMHO there is no way to determine that ALL the water has been blown out. All it takes is some left over water to drain back to a fitting somewhere and freeze and waala, a leak come spring time. Its just not worth not adding $10 worth of antifreeze
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Old 02-20-2019, 07:05 PM   #9
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I have repaired way to many busted water lines on way to many campers from people that blew there lines out and thought all was good. IMHO there is no way to determine that ALL the water has been blown out. All it takes is some left over water to drain back to a fitting somewhere and freeze and waala, a leak come spring time. Its just not worth not adding $10 worth of antifreeze



It is not the antifreeze that bothers me. It is the antifreeze in the ice maker that bothers me. Very hard to get it all in and get it all out!
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Old 02-21-2019, 03:05 PM   #10
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I have been winterizing all the campers I have owned by putting antifreeze in the fresh water tank and pumping it through all fixtures for over a decade. I can winterize in 10 minutes. In the spring, it is just a matter of flushing the system out real good with several tanks of water. Yes there is some residual antifreeze left, but that dissipates quickly with use. If you are like most people, you don't drink the water anyway.
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Old 02-21-2019, 04:52 PM   #11
Joe Hollars
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beeje,
We camp all year round. I winterize every trip as we get ready to come home. So we winterize and un-winterize 5-6 times during the winter.
It's true that I do not drink the water that much, but the residual antifreeze in the ice makes my cokes taste terrible!
Joe
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Old 02-24-2019, 02:52 PM   #12
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Verify the WATER HEATER is OFF, both gas and electric, then remove the drain plug and open the PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE to allow the tank to drain. After completely empty, turn the WATER HEATER BYPASS VALVE to the “BYPASS” position.
I STRONGLY suggest you open the pressure relief BEFORE you remove the tank drain plug. If you remove the plug with pressure in the tank you can be injured by the plug acting like a missile.
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Old 02-24-2019, 05:13 PM   #13
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If you are in Humboldt, CA you can probably just use air to blow out the lines and put antifreeze in the P-traps. I live in Oregon and I have never done the full anti freeze thing. If I lived some place that gets hard freezes (MT, ND, SD and other states) I'd use the full anti freeze approach. Open low point drains. Empty fresh tank. Make sure black and grey tanks are empty. Blow out lines with a compressor. Open one faucet at a time when doing this. Then leave all faucets open.
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Old 02-25-2019, 07:13 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Hollars View Post
It is not the antifreeze that bothers me. It is the antifreeze in the ice maker that bothers me. Very hard to get it all in and get it all out!

In my 3731FL I shut the water line off under the sink and drain the line out to the fridge at the low point under the rig. That should be all you need do to the ice maker and no antifreeze gets in it.
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:39 PM   #15
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In my 3731FL I shut the water line off under the sink and drain the line out to the fridge at the low point under the rig. That should be all you need do to the ice maker and no antifreeze gets in it.

Thanks DebNJim.
This is what we decided to try. I think it's best.
Joe
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Old 02-25-2019, 01:55 PM   #16
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The new rig was winterized when I purchased it, so I have not done it yet. I think I am just going to go with antifreeze.

My old trailer had copper tubing and no hot water bypass. Antifreeze alone was not going to work. I ran about half gallon of RV antifreeze through the water pump to make sure it was protected and to get some in WH. I then blew out all the lines, hot and cold using my compressor.
I poured antifreeze into the drain traps when done.
I did that for 22 years and never had an issue, even after polar vortex winters.
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Old 02-25-2019, 03:51 PM   #17
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The one area I’m always skeptical about is “did the air I used to blow out my system with remove the residual water in the water pump cavity”?

I drain and blow out my system and bypass WH... Then I still suck in RV antifreeze to make sure the water pump is protected and I run antifreeze out all the taps , toilet, etc

I also pour a cup down the sink and shower drains for the P traps.. and I pour sme in toilet bowl to keep seal lubricated.
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Old 02-26-2019, 10:14 AM   #18
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The one area I’m always skeptical about is “did the air I used to blow out my system with remove the residual water in the water pump cavity”?

I drain and blow out my system and bypass WH... Then I still suck in RV antifreeze to make sure the water pump is protected and I run antifreeze out all the taps , toilet, etc

I also pour a cup down the sink and shower drains for the P traps.. and I pour sme in toilet bowl to keep seal lubricated.
I run the pump after blowing out. Of course I am in central Texas and well Winter here is a joke to most of you folks up North
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Old 02-27-2019, 08:45 PM   #19
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I have been winterizing all the campers I have owned by putting antifreeze in the fresh water tank and pumping it through all fixtures for over a decade. I can winterize in 10 minutes. In the spring, it is just a matter of flushing the system out real good with several tanks of water. Yes there is some residual antifreeze left, but that dissipates quickly with use. If you are like most people, you don't drink the water anyway.
Do you have documented proof that MOST people don't drink the water in the fresh water tank. I use my tank alot and always drink the water from it.
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Old 02-28-2019, 07:27 AM   #20
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I sanitize my fresh tank at least once a year. I use water from the fresh tank all the time so it is replenished with new water that has passed through my filter. I would not hesitate to drink the water from that tank.
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