How much antifreeze

[fredetteb]

I'm about to winterize our 2018 381TH for the first time and don't know how much antifreeze to buy. Since we have been full-time we've always managed to stay in warm locations, but this year we are going to store the RV and stay in a "real house"

I've winterized other RVs we've owned but this will be the first time with this one. I just don't know if I should get 2 bottles or 20? Any one have any idea?

[Mtncrash1]

The first time I did my 345rl I used 4 bottles that included the drains. I just did it for 4th time and used 2 1/2 which included the drains.

[Dave W]

I use 1.5+/- gallons in our 343RL. If it had 2 bathrooms, probably would have used one more gallon.


Make sure the line to the HW heater is blown out before you isolate it - I got at least a surprising pint of water out this year even after draining the system, driving over 100 miles from a CG on bumpy I-87 with all of the drains and faucets open

[fredetteb]

That's how I've winterized in the past, blow out the lines and add some antifreeze for extra protection. Good point about the WH though.

Do either of you have the residential fridge? If so how to get the ice maker cleared?

Originally Posted by Dave W

I use 1.5+/- gallons in our 343RL. If it had 2 bathrooms, probably would have used one more gallon.


Make sure the line to the HW heater is blown out before you isolate it - I got at least a surprising pint of water out this year even after draining the system, driving over 100 miles from a CG on bumpy I-87 with all of the drains and faucets open

[John McLean]

We have a 2019 HM331RL. We have the Samsung residential refrigerator with the ice maker and I had our rig winterized this past Monday. I was told to empty the refrigerator and leave the frig doors and freezer drawer open at least 24 hours prior to winterizing. I had gone to our camper two weeks prior to winterizing and opened all the faucets and low-point drains after turning off the water. When we leave (it is on a rented site in a campground that is open March thru part of November) our camper after a weekend stay, we always turn off the water heater and the water. I went back about two weeks ago (we live in mid-state NC) and did all this because it was supposed to get really cold for several days or longer. I did leave the shore power connected and ran a ceramic tower heater with thermostat until I could get back this past Sunday afternoon.

Now to get back to the real story. The guy I had come to winterize disconnected the water line that runs along the outside of the slide that contains the entertainment system, stove/oven and refrigerator. This line goes to our refrigerator, He blue air thru the line to the ice maker to blow out any water. I had shut off the water supply to the ice maker earlier.

This is a new rig for us and a little different from our 2007 Keystone Cougar that I had winterized myself in the past. I wasn't quite sure about how to use this 'new" winterization system on our new coach so, I paid a local company to winterize and they will also come back and de-winterize in March 2020. Next year, I can do this on my own, but is still a two person job. Need someone inside to watch for the 'pink stuff' to come out of the faucets and someone to operate the pump on the outside pushing the antifreeze ('pink stuff') into the plumbing system. Don't forget to depressurize the water heater and remove the anode to drain the water heater and also by-pass the water heater.

Hope this diatribe was helpful.

John

[Mark7]

I use 2 gallons including all faucets, outside shower, and W/D. I collect what comes out of each faucet in a cup and run it thru again until I am sure all of the water lines are full.

I do blow it out ahead of time... I always put the water heater in bypass, remove the anode rod (drain) and then hook up the air. It is amazing how fast the water exits the water heater with 45 PSI pushing it. I have it in my head I blow out a lot more sediment that way, rather than just letting it drip. I leave the drain out and put a piece of cotton clothes line rope in the drain hole to wick out any remaining water. Concrete will be wet under that rope for a week or so afterward as it wicks out the bottom of the tank.

I only blow out the black tank flusher and have never had an issue... again with 45 PSI.

Whatever antifreeze remains goes in all the traps.

20 years of this method and never a problem.

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by Dave W

I use 1.5+/- gallons in our 343RL. If it had 2 bathrooms, probably would have used one more gallon.


Make sure the line to the HW heater is blown out before you isolate it - I got at least a surprising pint of water out this year even after draining the system, driving over 100 miles from a CG on bumpy I-87 with all of the drains and faucets open

Never quite understood why someone would want blow out their water lines if they have seen what can come out of a compressed air tank. Sure if you got a good filtered compressor. But then still why ????

I usually go thru about three to four gallons, not a big deal. Not once in 12 year years have I bothered with that water heater, isolate it ,and be done ,nor the black tank flush . JMHO, but it works okay for me. I know many that do it the same way.

For what its worth , I drain the low points , with all valves open. Close all the valves, proceed with pumping antifreeze to each faucet, outside shower, toilet, washer hookups, until running pink, pour some in the traps , and be done .

Just can't see blowing crappy dirty air into those lines if not using a very good filtered compressor, and many of us do not have one of those.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by PSFORD99

Never quite understood why someone would want blow out their water lines if they have seen what can come out of a compressed air tank. Sure if you got a good filtered compressor. But then still why ????

Nothing but clean compressed air exits my Ingersoll-Rand shop air compressor with a double Sharpe filter system. It was set up to paint automobiles.http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe...In-line+Filter and http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe...line+Coalescer



Additionally, if I, like many others were to use a little oilless pancake compressor, there is zero chance of anything but some condended water - and that's only if the tank hasn't been drained and even that's no big deal

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by Dave W

Nothing but clean compressed air exits my Ingersoll-Rand shop air compressor with a double Sharpe filter system. It was set up to paint automobiles.http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe...In-line+Filter and http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe...line+Coalescer



Additionally, if I, like many others were to use a little oilless pancake compressor, there is zero chance of anything but some condended water - and that's only if the tank hasn't been drained and even that's no big deal

I disagree, there is alway moisture, and whatever is in that tank, trust me I have drained oilless compressors ,I have one, and no its not just contended air.

[BB_TX]

I use nearly 4 gallons. But I don't attempt to minimize usage. I let it run thru each faucet until it runs good and pink and puts antifreeze in the P traps. And the clothes washer hot and cold lines take quite a bit plus making sure I get it in the washer drain P trap. And then there is the toilet, and the black tank flush line, and the outside shower lines. No more than it cost I don't worry about using too much.

I use the propylene glycol antifreeze rather than the cheaper ethanol based antifreeze.

[Dave W]

We don't have the res fridge or non res series with ice maker so no idea about how to do that gadget. Also, if you have a washer, that will need some extra attention and more antifreeze;




I also don't try to minimize use of antifreeze. Two gallons max is all I need for this 5er. The last one needed three. This includes all faucets running pink plus the toilet. If you have a Dometic toilet, make sure that you have some pink in the vacuum breaker (a 50 buck part) and spray hose if equipped. Then some in the P traps but that's usually what I've collected in the check color bottle



The outside shower line gets some pink through it as well. Some say that the black tank flusher needs some but this is the first year in 40 plus I did that too.


Two gallons for our's with a simple system, single toulet, no washer or ice maker, dish washer, etc is all it takes. I generally buy 3 but save it unopened for the next year.

[Slow Hand]

At the end of the ice age i flush the lines with fresh water and put as much of the antifreeze back in the bottles as I can for next year. I hook up the hose, turn on the faucet and put the pink stuff back in the bottle. I watch to see if the color changes and stop filling the bottle and let it run to clean it all out. I do this in each faucet till I get them all. I reuse it next year. Mine only uses 2 gallons.

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by Slow Hand

At the end of the ice age i flush the lines with fresh water and put as much of the antifreeze back in the bottles as I can for next year. I hook up the hose, turn on the faucet and put the pink stuff back in the bottle. I watch to see if the color changes and stop filling the bottle and let it run to clean it all out. I do this in each faucet till I get them all. I reuse it next year. Mine only uses 2 gallons.

Well, thats pretty economical for a $2.50 worth of antifreeze per gallon

[Slow Hand]

Originally Posted by PSFORD99

Well, thats pretty economical for a $2.50 worth of antifreeze per gallon

https://www.campingworld.com/boiler-...lon-72724.html
Here is what I get. Wish I lived in your hood.

[BB_TX]

Several years ago the first time out in the spring, I used the black tank flush .... and flooded the inside of the trailer. I found the anti siphon valve nipple broken off and the body cracked. Only thing I can think of that would have done that is freezing. Apparently I did not run antifreeze thru it that year. See pic below. Zoom in and see cracks in the body of the valve.


I completely removed the valve and tied the lines back together and now use an external anti siphon valve. In the second pic you can see after the valve was removed and also see the pink stuff in the lines after I had winterized it.

[Creeker]

I would think whatever antifreeze you get in that black tank line will immediately drain right back out. That's its entire design being mounted up high with the valve.

I think our first camper with the black tank flush was around '07 or '08. I have never even attempted to winterize that line in all those years on several different campers.

[beeje]

Originally Posted by fredetteb

I'm about to winterize our 2018 381TH for the first time and don't know how much antifreeze to buy. Since we have been full-time we've always managed to stay in warm locations, but this year we are going to store the RV and stay in a "real house"

I've winterized other RVs we've owned but this will be the first time with this one. I just don't know if I should get 2 bottles or 20? Any one have any idea?

Now I admit, I'm a pretty cheap guy myself. So my question is way are you worried about how much to buy. Just buy a case. Its not like you will never use it again or it will go bad. Its $2.58 a gallon at Walmart.

[stepheco18]

Originally Posted by fredetteb

I'm about to winterize our 2018 381TH for the first time and don't know how much antifreeze to buy. Since we have been full-time we've always managed to stay in warm locations, but this year we are going to store the RV and stay in a "real house"

I've winterized other RVs we've owned but this will be the first time with this one. I just don't know if I should get 2 bottles or 20? Any one have any idea?

I would use 4 bottles of you have washer/dryer.

[saber707]

2-3 gallons.