Landing gear/stableizer switches dead

[Slufoot733]

We just returned from the national rally in Goshen, IN (a great time I might add) and when I went to drop the trailer this morning I found that the two switches on the drivers side, the ones that control the landing gear and rear stableizers, will not work. They worked fine yesterday morning when we prepaired to leave Goshen. I was able to use the remote to run everything. I suspect a fuse or relay. Anyone know which fuse/relay to check, or where it may be located? I don't want to dig too deep if someone is already familar with this issue.

Thanks for any advice.

KT

[rohrmann]

This may be the same issue as others that have had an issue with the remote and their lights. If the remote was used with the landing gear last, and was not properly turned off, then the main control switches won't work, because the system still thinks the remote is working the system. I would try to activate the remote so the jacks work, then turn off the remote and see if the main controls work.

[DQDick]

If you don't have a remote, check your fuze box for a burned fuse.

[pineranch]

Sounds like your programming panel has a problem. Many topics about this problem on forum. Mine was the ground, ran another wire to ground and has been working for 4 years.
Mike

[Slufoot733]

Thanks everyone for the replies. The remote does work and it was turned off properly. I've never had an issue between the remote and the switches. But it certainly warrants checking. I'll be getting into this later today.

[Phil P]

Hi

That unit will have the same remote receiver as ours had before I removed it. That unit will do that for no apparent reason. Disconnect the battery and wait about 1 minute and reconnect. That would correct ours when it did what you are talking about.

When we spent the time and money to wire the trailer properly I just removed the remote system and cured a lot of problems. For whatever reason the factory didn’t put any breakers or fuses in the system and relied on one 30 slow blow fuse in the main power supply line. The dealer didn’t have a qualified electrician so I just removed all the spaghetti from that compartment and rewired with 30 amp breakers and a fuse panel in place of the receiver. That corrected all problems.

Sorry about the long post but the wiring in these things is atrocious.

Phil P

[Irlpguy]

Here is a picture of my controller, if yours is the same or similar look for the terminals labeled "manual switches", the white one on mine is ground and the red one has 12V, there should be 12V there at all times to operate the switches. (check this)
Also when you turn the remote "on" the LED I have noted in the picture should light up, this tells you the remote is communicating with the controller, that appears to be working ok on yours.
Some have found if they run a better ground from the Neg terminal of the manual switches it solves this problem.



There is no right way or wrong way to turn off the controller using the remote, it will turn off on it's own after a short time and the LED on the controller will go out.

In three years I have had no problems with my remote system or operating the slides from the remote switches, and I love it, I have to change the battery in the remote about every 6 months.

Hope this helps, good luck.

[Slufoot733]

Thanks Ed. I found the problem , or should I say by-passed the problem. I checked the ground and it seemed OK. But when I checked the power (+) terminal at the "to manual switches" point it was dead. After some testing I disconnected both wires from the remote box and ran them directly to ground and to power (with a fuse). All the remote functions still work and both switches work. Guess something inside that black box died. But I'm back in business for now.

Thanks to all for your help.

Kevin

[spenac]

Looks like I am going to have to try these solutions as well. Glad I am not the only one that has lost the power to raise and lower.

[Slufoot733]

Update: well I thought I had this problem licked. But I am experiencing blown fuses; 15amp, 20amp and now 30amp! So apparently I have not found the issue. The rear stabilizers seem OK but when I use the switch to raise/lower the landing gear the fuse blows within about one minute. In fact, the 30amp may have been too big since the fuse holder got hot and melted. I am now thinking the L/G motor is drawing too much current and may have to be replaced. Not sure why this is occuring. Everything still works fine if I use the remote so I guess I'll stick with that untill I find the problem.

[DAR]

quote:Originally posted by Slufoot733

Update: well I thought I had this problem licked. But I am experiencing blown fuses; 15amp, 20amp and now 30amp! So apparently I have not found the issue. The rear stabilizers seem OK but when I use the switch to raise/lower the landing gear the fuse blows within about one minute. In fact, the 30amp may have been too big since the fuse holder got hot and melted. I am now thinking the L/G motor is drawing too much current and may have to be replaced. Not sure why this is occuring. Everything still works fine if I use the remote so I guess I'll stick with that untill I find the problem.

I think I remember a post last year or maybe the year before about getting water in the motor from rain soaked roads, I do believe the motor had to be replaced

[Slufoot733]

Good point DAR. I did have that issue with the motor on the rear stabilizers. I had to disassemble the motor, clean it and replace the brush springs. I then sealed it and installed a 'shield' to help protect it from moisture thrown back by the tires. So far, so good on that.
I plan to get into the L/G motor soon and see what's going on there. Surely it should not be drawing 30+ amps of power. Yet, strangely enough, it runs fine when using the remote. Go figure

[Slufoot733]

Latest report: I purchased a 20 amp and a 30 amp circuit breaker from my local RV dealer (not a Monty dealer). I installed the 20 amp where the fuse was. Right now everything works as intended. The breaker never tripped while running the lading gear in and out with the full weight of the trailer on them. I checked the motor and power wire several times by touch to see if anything was getting hot. All seemed OK. Not sure what to think at this point. Working for now but trailer is put away for the winter (stored inside heated garage). Guess we'll see what happens in the spring.

[jcurtis934]

You have discovered why slow blow fuses were developed, me thinks. At least I hope that's all of your issue. John