Best safe solvent for degreasing wheel bearings?

[Mark N.]

I just did one side of the Monty, now on to the other side. However, I tried acetone to degrease, but it was pretty darn lousy at the job. I had to finish with spray brake cleaner to get them really degreased well enough.
What have you used that is effective, and relatively safe? I used to use gasoline, but I won't use that anymore...Just too dangerous. One static spark can really mess up your day.
Any input is welcome.
I've heard denatured alcohol, but that in my mind wouldn't work very well on axle grease. I've also heard mineral spirits and naptha too. I used to use "white gas" way back when, which I believe was just naptha. But, can you still get that? Not to mention, I'm betting that naptha has the a similar flash-point as gasoline.

[thekrusers]

I never degrease them. Just wipe them off good and push new grease through until new grease is all that shows.

[rohrmann]

I usually just wipe them off with a clean rag, and after checking them, pack by hand with the same grease each time. I have, in the past, used paint thinner if changing the type of grease. I would think diesel would work quite well also, but regardless of what you use, you have to dispose of the dirty solvent. That's why I don't wash them down anymore. Shops have their parts washers that use commercial solvents and have a service that collects the used solvent, but unless you know someone who has a washer, just pushing clean grease into the bearing is all that is really needed.

[Mark N.]

quote:Originally posted by thekrusers

I never degrease them. Just wipe them off good and push new grease through until new grease is all that shows.

How do you inspect the rollers and the inside of the cone for pitting and burnishing if it's still covered with grease in there? Also, I am switching from whatever factory grease was used to Amsoil...

[Eagleback]

I use mineral spirits. Paint thinner. its still flammable but not explosive.

[8.1al]

quote:Originally posted by Mark N.

How do you inspect the rollers and the inside of the cone for pitting and burnishing if it's still covered with grease in there? Also, I am switching from whatever factory grease was used to Amsoil...

If there is a problem with the rollers it will be evident on the cup. As rohrman stated I wipe all the grease off and repack till clean grease is coming out.

[ole dude]

I use a safety solvent, purchase at auto parts store. I get it in 5 gallon bucket because we use it often around here.

[Trailer Trash 2]

you could put them in an oven at say 200 deg the oil should melt out, paint thinner or just do like some of the other post said wipe them off and put in new grease.

[dieselguy]

I dunno if it's safety solvent or not, but use solvent I buy in bulk for my parts washer tank. It has a pump and flex wand with a small bristle brush on the end. I clean all the old grease out of the bearings and blow em out with compressed air (yeah I know ... don't spin the rollers with the air). It's the better way to really be able to check out the rollers and cages. I still use just plain ole diesel in a pinch.

[psomers]

I've always gotten all the old grease out. The reason for re-packing is to replace the old grease that has been contaminated with minute wear particles. If your not going to replace the grease, don't do anything. Just make sure it still has grease. Also according to Timken different greases should never be mixed as the blends may not be compatible.
I've never understood the need for such frequent re-greasing any way. The old rear wheel drive cars used the cup and cone bearings in the front axels and people would go 100,000 miles and never touch them.

[rohrmann]

I think the need for frequent re-greasing of the bearings is the same as with most of the issues with these rigs. The engineers have specified parts and materials that just meet the need. Tires are marginal, bearings and axles just meet the capacity, frames are just capable of carrying the load of these rigs, and so on. Most of the design is due to maintaining a weight that can be towed safely with normal pickup trucks, and the rest of the excuse is spending the least amount of money to make these rigs and still make a hefty profit. In the 'old days', everything was over engineered, could be taken apart and fixed instead of tossed and replaced, even down to your toaster, which could be repaired. That's why old cars almost never had to have bearings replaced, and could run for years without being taken care of properly. Welcome to 'planned obsolescence'.

[Mark N.]

quote:Originally posted by psomers

I've always gotten all the old grease out. The reason for re-packing is to replace the old grease that has been contaminated with minute wear particles. If your not going to replace the grease, don't do anything. Just make sure it still has grease. Also according to Timken different greases should never be mixed as the blends may not be compatible.
I've never understood the need for such frequent re-greasing any way. The old rear wheel drive cars used the cup and cone bearings in the front axels and people would go 100,000 miles and never touch them.

I agree about getting the old grease out. I've tried to wipe them clean with rags, and I still have trouble inspecting the inner cone for problems. You just can't see it with grease still in there. It's tough enough to see when it's shiny clean and having a good light.
Maybe I'm old-school overkill, but I'm not putting a bearing back in that I haven't put eyes on every surface of it, looking for early problems.
As far as the 12,000 mile inspect/re-lube recommendation, who knows why Dexter say do it, but I figure they know a lot more about their product than I do, so I live by it.

[The Bone]

I would just get a coffee can. The plastic ones will work just fine. Fill half full od diesel and just let then soak and then repack. Brake cleaner works fine to but expensive when diesel will keep so you can reuse it over and over. Make sure to blow out the diesel before you repack.

[awaywego]

I wash bearings and hubs with kerosene and a paint brush. I was told the kerosene has a small amt of oil and keeps things from rusting. I use rags and compressed air to remove the kerosene. then use hand to repack. Has worked for me for 40+ yrs.

[gearhead]

I used diesel to clean one side, and gasoline the other side. Could tell no difference. I did use a can of brake cleaner to finish them off. A word of caution...the aerosol comes out cold and will cause condensation on the bearings. I wiped them down good and set to dry for awhile.

[PatnRich]

I use a mix of gasoline and lacquer thinner. Just don't smoke near it.