Overheated trans, damage?

[brenkco]

I was backing my rig up a steep driveway and over a curb stop when the transmission overheat light came on. I finished making by turn, let the engine idle until the trans cooled and light went off. Haven't moved the rig since.

I just had the tranmission serviced, new fluid, filter and bands adjusted just before we left. Fluid looks ok but does have an odor. It's an 06 Dodge with 51k miles. We are heading out for 7 Feathers on Tuesday.

Any thoughts? Thanks!!!

Ken

[steves]

It's unusual to have the trans light come on and overheat in such a quick manner. Make sure they filled the trans up to the proper level, check for leaks, take it out for a test run. Some use 4WD in backing situations to reduce the stress on the truck and tran.

[brenkco]

I should have said that I drove for about 2 hours before parking. I had just went a steep hill in 2nd using the jake brake.
Ken

[LonnieB]

I would suggest taking it by a transmission shop, preferably the one that just serviced it and have them check it out.

In the future, you can reduce the load on the transmission by putting the truck in 4X4 low range when performing these types of maneuvers.

Good luck.

[Trailer Trash 2]

quote:Originally posted by LonnieB

I would suggest taking it by a transmission shop, preferably the one that just serviced it and have them check it out.

In the future, you can reduce the load on the transmission by putting the truck in 4X4 low range when performing these types of maneuvers.

Good luck.

Ditto on this.

[PSFORD99]

The least I would do is get that fluid out of there if it is burnt.

[Waynem]

Pull out the dip stick and smell the fluid. I should smell clean. If there is a "shellacked" smell something is wrong. As suggested, have it checked out again by a professional.

[brenkco]

Thanks for the help. Fluid didn't smell right. Found a tranny shop open today. He's replacing the trans fluid. Droped me off at a casino to wait for the truck. Glad I no longer gamble or this might have been a costly repair!!

Should be on our way to 7feathers in the morning. Thanks again, I love this forum!!!!!

Ken

[Trailer Trash 2]

Ken when you back that Monty up do you put it in 4 wheel drive, you would be amaised how easy it pushes that RV backwords without even steping on the throtle.

[brenkco]

I hadn't until I overheated this time. Another lesson learned!
Thanks!!

[maphillips]

I have heard stories of guys changing transmission fluid and all that and then they started having problems with there tranny. I have not ever changed transmission fluid and never had any transmission problems. Had 87000 miles on my 2006 when I traded it off and did not have any problems, 176000 on my 1994, no problems. Don't know if there is anything to that or not. Just thought I would put in my 2cents worth.

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by maphillips

I have heard stories of guys changing transmission fluid and all that and then they started having problems with there tranny. I have not ever changed transmission fluid and never had any transmission problems. Had 87000 miles on my 2006 when I traded it off and did not have any problems, 176000 on my 1994, no problems. Don't know if there is anything to that or not. Just thought I would put in my 2cents worth.

The people who start having trouble with their transmissions when they change the fluid are people who don't do it when they should. Trans fluid is just like motor oil in that it is supposed to be changed at regular intervals. Can you get by without doing it? Absolutely. That's what keeps transmission shops in business.

[ARJ]

Burnt smell in fluid comes from slipping clutches or possibly the bands which you just had adjusted. Could the bands have been adjusted too tight? If your problem just appeared after the service you described, I would have someone look at the band adjustment as the bands release after the tranny shifts to normal driving speed and if they are dragging on the clutch pack/drum (s), that would account for the burnt smell and overheating.

The above references my experience with older hydramatics and may not apply to your vehicle-I just posted it to give you some guidelines.

[SlickWillie]

quote:Originally posted by ARJ

Burnt smell in fluid comes from slipping clutches or possibly the bands which you just had adjusted. Could the bands have been adjusted too tight? If your problem just appeared after the service you described, I would have someone look at the band adjustment as the bands release after the tranny shifts to normal driving speed and if they are dragging on the clutch pack/drum (s), that would account for the burnt smell and overheating.

The above references my experience with older hydramatics and may not apply to your vehicle-I just posted it to give you some guidelines.

I am thinking along the same line. Possibly the torque converter also. A transmission that has been doing fine, then serviced, and runs hot means there is a source of heat that wasn't there previously.

[PSFORD99]

quote:Originally posted by Tom S.

The people who start having trouble with their transmissions when they change the fluid are people who don't do it when they should. Trans fluid is just like motor oil in that it is supposed to be changed at regular intervals. Can you get by without doing it? Absolutely. That's what keeps transmission shops in business.

Very true, but all those oil changes also keep the oil industry running quite nicely.

I have an interesting question now that we are on the subject of change intervals. My 99 Ford Superduty calls for no oil change in the rear axle in other words the oil in it is life time ,unless its been submerged in water, or gets a leak, then the seal has to be replaced along with the oil. Now tow to the top of a long mountain pass here in the mountain west, and see how hot that rear axle gets. The question why is that the rear axle never has to be changed, but the transmission ever 25k

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by PSFORD99

Very true, but all those oil changes also keep the oil industry running quite nicely.

I have an interesting question now that we are on the subject of change intervals. My 99 Ford Superduty calls for no oil change in the rear axle in other words the oil in it is life time ,unless its been submerged in water, or gets a leak, then the seal has to be replaced along with the oil. Now tow to the top of a long mountain pass here in the mountain west, and see how hot that rear axle gets. The question why is that the rear axle never has to be changed, but the transmission ever 25k

First off, about oil changes and the oil industry. In my younger years, I did a lot of work on cars, and saw the sludge oil leaves in engines, even with regular oil changes. When I bought a new truck in 1978, I made the switch to synthetic oil, namely Mobil 1. Coincidentally, that same year, I had several friends who also bought new trucks. Due to improper heat treating of the camshafts, the front lobes of everyone else's camshafts wore off in less than 12,000 miles. Mine lasted until 32,000. That is a testament to the lubrication properties of synthetic. Since the engine warranty was only 1 year / 12,000, I replaced the camshaft myself. The inside of that engine was spotless - not a smear of sludge anywhere. I've used nothing but synthetics ever since. Synthetic oil does not break down nearly as fast as standard motor oil either, so with proper filtration and monitoring, you can run synthetic oil a lot longer between normal oil change intervals. For instance, I believe Amsoil recommends 24,000 between oil changes. My own practice has been to change the oil/filter, run the recommended manufacturer's mileage, then change the filter and add enough oil to bring it back up to full. At the next interval, I change both the oil and filter again.

Now to the rear end issue. I don't know why Ford makes that recommendation, nor do I agree with it. Gears wear, and despite having a magnet in the pan to catch the steel particles, the magnet can only catch so many. Remember though, the rear end lube is far thicker than trans oil. Additionally, transmissions work by friction, which causes heat and wear on the transmission clutch packs. Take any auto trans pan off, and you'll see what I'm talking about: a layer of worn off clutch material in the bottom of the pan that is extremely fine. That's why transmissions have filters - in fact the Duramax has two: a spin on like what is found on engines for motor oil, and the normal inside the pan unit. Transmissions also use the fluid pressure to drive transmission and transfer the power from the engine to the rear output shaft. So while the rear end lube only has to provide lube the ring and pinion, plus the axle bearings, the transmission fluid is doing far more tenuous duty.

Of course you could be like a salesman I once spoke to. He put between 50,000 and 60,000 miles a year on a vehicle and bought a new one every year. He never changed the oil. I always think about that when looking at a used car.

[skypilot]

Ken: I also notice that you are driving a Dodge as do I. The earlier transmissions did not circulate the transmission fluid through the cooler when in reverse or Park; only when in Neutral or drive as I recall. I don't know on the newer 6 speed transmissions but up until the 06 model year (not 06.5) that was the case. That was one of the mods made by several transmission rebuilders - to have the fluid run through the cooler when in reverse or park.

I have not had the opportunity to pull my 5er since getting my new truck so no practical experience to pass on as yet.

[brenkco]

What I learned from a few local mechanics confirms exactly what Tom is saying. I used a synthetic trans oil. What I had done was overheat the oil by trying to backup a steep hill and over a curb. It was definitely caused by a poor decision on my part. I have a hunch, if I had initially done as suggested here in this post, use 4wheel low, it wouldn't have overheated.

I had an old-timer replace the oil and filter. He said the band adjustments were fine. Both the guys I spoke to recommended replacing the oil since it overheated. Both said the you loose about 50% of the life of the lubricant if it overheats. Even though it didn't smell burned, I wanted to error on the cautious side and replace it.

I have always figured the weak-link is the transmission. I changed the factory fluid and filter at 5000, again at 25k and now twice at 50k. The reason I did it at 5k was what Tom is talking about with the material in the bottom of the pan. Just like we used to have break in engine oil that we changed relatively soon, I've always figured the same for the tranny. The other reason was that I wanted to get the synthetic oil in use. Might be a little over kill but I figure it's cheap preventative maintenance for a truck I hope to keep for sometime.

[PSFORD99]

-

quote:Originally posted by Tom S.

First off, about oil changes and the oil industry. In my younger years, I did a lot of work on cars, and saw the sludge oil leaves in engines, even with regular oil changes. When I bought a new truck in 1978, I made the switch to synthetic oil, namely Mobil 1. Coincidentally, that same year, I had several friends who also bought new trucks. Due to improper heat treating of the camshafts, the front lobes of everyone else's camshafts wore off in less than 12,000 miles. Mine lasted until 32,000. That is a testament to the lubrication properties of synthetic. Since the engine warranty was only 1 year / 12,000, I replaced the camshaft myself. The inside of that engine was spotless - not a smear of sludge anywhere. I've used nothing but synthetics ever since. Synthetic oil does not break down nearly as fast as standard motor oil either, so with proper filtration and monitoring, you can run synthetic oil a lot longer between normal oil change intervals. For instance, I believe Amsoil recommends 24,000 between oil changes. My own practice has been to change the oil/filter, run the recommended manufacturer's mileage, then change the filter and add enough oil to bring it back up to full. At the next interval, I change both the oil and filter again.

Now to the rear end issue. I don't know why Ford makes that recommendation, nor do I agree with it. Gears wear, and despite having a magnet in the pan to catch the steel particles, the magnet can only catch so many. Remember though, the rear end lube is far thicker than trans oil. Additionally, transmissions work by friction, which causes heat and wear on the transmission clutch packs. Take any auto trans pan off, and you'll see what I'm talking about: a layer of worn off clutch material in the bottom of the pan that is extremely fine. That's why transmissions have filters - in fact the Duramax has two: a spin on like what is found on engines for motor oil, and the normal inside the pan unit. Transmissions also use the fluid pressure to drive transmission and transfer the power from the engine to the rear output shaft. So while the rear end lube only has to provide lube the ring and pinion, plus the axle bearings, the transmission fluid is doing far more tenuous duty.

Of course you could be like a salesman I once spoke to. He put between 50,000 and 60,000 miles a year on a vehicle and bought a new one every year. He never changed the oil. I always think about that when looking at a used car.

Thanks, I pretty much knew the answers, but I found it odd to never change the rear axle on that superduty, when everything else has a maintenance schedule. I also do not agree with Ford,maybe there thinking is like yours,synthetic oil goes longer, and that rear axle of mine calls out 75W140 Synthetic gear lube I changed out the rear axle this past weekend along with my tranfer case. My truck is used mainly for towing.

[Clyde n Deb]

Looks like in that year, Ford speced 75W140 synthetic with a can of special Ford "voodoo" juice additive as well. Probably felt strong enough about it to go with those service recommendations.