Transfer tank

[Trailer Trash 2]

Well I just ordered a new transfer tank, Tuthill fuel pump, fuel/seperator for water, and a extra filter.
The tank is 45 gals, add that to what I have from the Dodge Boys I'll have about 81 gal I did not allow for expansion so deduct 5 gals from the new tank so say 40 gals there, and 36 factory = 76 gals. which should be plenty of a safety margerin between fills. the tank is 9 1/2 " deep, 20" high and 57" wide I will have some eyes welded on each end so removal is simple, empty the tank is 85 lbs. DOT approved for diesel only.
This should be up and running for Q-site then to Carlsbad to bad that Honda 2000 dont run on diesel, wouldn't that be sweet.
I do have a question for anybody out there with ideas.... I'm open minded. the pump runs on 12 VDC and I dont want to make it easy for the pump to work should I run the power wires through conduet with a keyed electrict switch? or a specal pigtail wire that can plug into the trailer 7 prong plug and use the accessory connector for power. OR ????????

[Johnnyg]

How about running the power back to the pump thru a toggle switch that would be located inside the cab? That should give you the security needed.

[Champ_49]

I have a tank in the box also. 75 gal. to boot. It has a switch in the cab which transfers the fuel from that tank to truck tank. Works excellent, "except" for one thing, if you don't shut it off when your tank is full it doesn't stop running, except on the highway. Not good. My cure for that was kind of cheap, but I bought a baking timer and set it for 20 minutes, and reminds me to look at my gauge. Cheap fix, but would rather come up with a better idea of some kind. Bet someone will be stoping by and giving some good advice.

Dave

[Jolu]

Don you will appreciate that 45 gal transfer tank. Takes a lot of stress away at times. Gives you a choice to shop as you drive for the best price. I don't always need the extra 45 gals, but there are times when it comes in handy. Especially in the West. My 45 gal tank allows for 43 gal fill. The 2 gal is for expansion. This tank will not allow a gauge, so I made a dip stick out of a 1 1/4" dowel with 5 gal increments. The first one was out of pvc. Not as good as the wood one.

Johnnyg makes a good point about having a switch in the cab for your pump. I do not have a pump. Perhaps someone with a pump will comment and answer your question.

[H. John Kohl]

I am very interested in this topic. Why not hook the power source for the switch to the ignition side of the ignition switch. That way the pump can not run unless the truck is running. That does provide a Key to turn on the pump.

[Delaine and Lindy]

Don't know exactly how the system worked on our Chevy Kodiak 4500 but we had a 98 gal in-bed tank plus the two OEM tanks for a total of 148 gals. It did have a switch on the dash to pump fuel to the OEM tanks. We have twin 80 gal tanks now for a 160 gal total. The extra capacity is great, and you don't have to fuel up every day. We have just about enough fuel to make our return trip to Home base. Kinda watching Diesel price now if it drops a little we will top it off. GBY......

[Trailer Trash 2]

quote:Originally posted by H. John Kohl

I am very interested in this topic. Why not hook the power source for the switch to the ignition side of the ignition switch. That way the pump can not run unless the truck is running. That does provide a Key to turn on the pump.

You just gave me an idea, I could splice into the Aux pin on the 7 way connector, that plug does not work unless the truck is on, right? now I need to know if there is 12 volts to the center pin (#7) or should I use the (#4) pin which is 12 volts.
Anybody know for sure out there? Thanks TT2

[Trailer Trash 2]

OK did a check, along with a post on another forum (not the RV Forum),the center pin on the 7 way is for back-up lights, pin #4 is hot all the time even when the key is off (2009 Dodge Ram) I cant speak for your TV.
So what I have decided to do is make a pigtail connector that will plug into the 7 way connector pin #4 to give power to the pump, and store it in the back seat tool compartment when not needed, I do have to check to see what the amp draw is on the pump which might mean a seperate line from the battery and a inline fuse to a switch mounted in the cab on the dash. I thought security was supose to be simple.

[Fjkiss]

Don I have a (red) lighted rocker switch on the dash for mine
and can transfer fule when driving (works for me)Frank

[8e3k0]

We have a 55 gallon auxillary tank ( aluminum 15hX 16d and 55 long) complete with filter, solenoid and 12 volt electric fuel pump that mounts under the left front part of the box. System is tied into the vent line as a permanent fill tie in with "T" and 3/8 flex fuel line. We have run our electrical supply up to a 10 amp up fitter switch (#4) in the cab.
Yes you can over fil but you have full control in the cab at an easy reach. If main tank is at or near empty, it takes about 20 minutes to fill. Problem with the new trucks fuel gage, it will not monitor level when tank is being filled with key on. Have to stop; turn key off to reset fuel gage to attain correct level.
We have used this system on our trucks for years and works well and is trouble free.

[Clyde n Deb]

I bought a Transfer Flow tank that has an auto transfer system. It is tied into the fuel gauge on the truck. When you get just below 1/2, it comes on and fills up to just above 3/4. This varies sometimes depending on how much I've sagged the rear. I pull the Monty and also a 36' car transport. Attitude changes depending on what I've got loaded. (Air bags are next on the to do list.) My tank is 37 gallons, plus the 25 in the TV (shortbed) gives me about 60 to work with. Tank is "L" shaped, with the notch facing forward. Is designed for the auto rollback bedcovers. Fits underneath nicely. Works great with my Fold A Cover, and I can put a tool box and my jack in the "L" area after I put a piece of carpet on it.

[simonsrf]

You're going to love the ability to travel farther between fill ups. We shop for fuel and can save money buying fuel at the best price. (Mapquest fuel prices) In the past, whenever we moved, we had to go get fuel first. This extra tank saves us the time and expense of driving to go get fuel. This sure takes the pressure off of worrying about where to get fuel.

We bought our fuel tank system from KSH Marine, in Lake Havasu City, AZ. Their system is complete with fuel filters, the tanks are custom made, and operate off a single switch on the dashboard that allows us to draw from either tank. The fuel gauge works for either tank. They also have a booth at the Quartzsite during the RV Show.

[Trailer Trash 2]

Thats great thanks for the info, I like the (red) lighted rocker switch on the dash, another question on the in bed tank.
I know that the tank is secured with bolts through the bed floor did you use a backing plate underneath or just a large washer, lock washer, and nut.

[Clyde n Deb]

Tank came with all the hardware for mounting. When you go drilling, you may end up running through a crossbeam under there. You need to kind of watch for that. Measure from up top how you want to position things, then take those measurements down under with you and see where you're going to come through. I had to move my tank a tad to compensate for some interference underneath. I used large washers under on a couple of the bolts and the mounting kit came with some flat plates setup to use around the crossbeams as well. Tank had 4 mounting tabs already on it.

[8e3k0]

We mounted ours with 4, two at each end of the tank with self tapping 5/16 X 1.25 inches long stainless screws; hese screws go into "L" tabs that are welded to the tank. There is a rubber washer under the metal washer to compensate for any stress and box movement. We have a sprayed in box liner 1/4 inch thick which makes a good base for the tank. Very important: before drilling, check underside of box to ensure your not drilling through wires or hoses.