Newbie's first post regarding hitch choice - Montana Owners Club

hitched4life · 05-20-2007, 09:05 AM

After joining the ranks as Montana owners just about a month ago, we have been reading every post and trying to learn as much as we can from you who have so much experience. We have owned TTs and MHs in the past, but it has been almost 12 years since that last ownership. We bought a 2000 3670RL that had been on the road only 50 miles and had been lived in about 9 months.

At present, we are awaiting the arrival of our '08 Ford F-450, long bed dually, 6.4 dual turbo diesel, 4:88 rear end, automatic with tow command which should arrive the first week of June. Then we will begin the process of getting the truck and 5er ready for our first travel adventure.

Now, finally to my question! We need advice on which hitch would be best for us. What other items related to the hitch and truck bed are considered essential? Thanks in advance for any information you can pass along and for all the prior info that has helped us make educated decisions up to this point.

cmp-shooter · 05-20-2007, 09:35 AM

This is mine[pict borrowed]

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ols1932 · 05-20-2007, 09:37 AM

It depends on what your travel plans are. I'll be glad to correspond with you directly about what I think about hitches.

Orv

Cat320 · 05-20-2007, 01:57 PM

Three suggestions:

- Get a hitch that comes apart in two pieces. That makes it lots easier (lighter) to get out...I have a 16k Husky (made by RBW).

- You might want to consider a tonneau cover, that way you can cover the hitch when not towing and don't want to remove the hitch from the bed. Mine is an ExtangRT, got it from www.autoanything.com

- A bed liner is nice...any will do fine, I have a Rhino.

Wrenchtraveller · 05-20-2007, 04:09 PM

I plug these every chance I get. I have installed my Hijacker on my last 3 trucks. The 05 required one different bracket because of the staggered shock mounts. They explain it all and if the 08s need a mod, they will have it.
http://www.hijacker.com/
Hijacker offers the most complete line of Fifth Wheel Hitches in the Industry. Our models install either "along the bed" Slider Hitches or "across the bed" Ultra Hitches and both types are upgradeable to the 16K (16,000 pounds) and 21 K (21,000 pounds) "Double Pivots". They both have Goosenecks hitches, as well. Enjoy smooth towing with the strongest most durable Fifth Wheel Hitches on the market.

capn chris · 05-20-2007, 06:24 PM

I'm w/CAT320. Also have a Husky 16K. Built burley and works great. Excellent construction. Use teflon dics on pin. Clean and quiet. Hook ups are positive and solid. Have a tonneau cover over it when not towing and touring.

Delaine and Lindy · 05-21-2007, 02:02 AM

I highly recomend the Trailer Saver Air ride hitch. The Trailer Saver does just what it says, it saves the 5th wheel. Takes lot of stress off the frame and things inside ride very smooth. Since going with the Trailer Saver we now don't have to remove things from the counter tops, like coffe makers can openers and so forth.

It does cost a lot more but will pay for it self in the long run. And it will fit in the same bed rails as the steel 5th wheel hitches, fits Valley/Huskey and Reese. We also can use a Goose Neck type hitch for pulling the Back Hoe trailer.

Our first two hitches were Huskey, 16,000 lb, but when we upgraded to the Trailer Saver we now have the 20,000 lb hitch. We will be installing the Trailer Saver in the 3rd TV this week. Good Luck on you choice. GBY....

Cat320 · 05-21-2007, 02:05 PM

One other consideration regarding hitches. Many have locking jaws...my Husky (RBW) has a sliding bar that goes behind the Montana's pin. When it slams across the back of the pin there is no doubt it is closed and locked.

Wrenchtraveller · 05-21-2007, 02:30 PM

Bert makes a good point and the Hijackers also use a heavy sliding bar that captures the pin.
You never want a hitch that you can not tell by looking at it if your pin is locked or not and any hitch that tells you to take a little pre-pull with your truck before you lift your landing gear is a hitch I would never own.

5ER · 05-22-2007, 03:55 AM

I have a pullrite hitch , linex liner, toolbox and toneau cover. Regardless of what type hitch you get I would always prepull before pulling out. I think your truck is awesome, when the salesman says "your truck can handle anything on our lot" he won't be lying.

noneck · 05-22-2007, 03:59 PM

I agree with Bert and have an RBW...there is no question when my disengage arm is fully inserted the bar is in place. Reese hitch is what my Brother-in-law has and it still, to this day, makes me nervous as it has jaws that cam into place. Knock on wood it has worked everytime...I am one of those types that doesn't need an excuse to worry...comes natural.

Steve and Brenda · 05-23-2007, 05:21 AM

Anything but a gooseneck. Lippert will not help you if you use a gooseneck since the strain on the frame is multiplied using a gooseneck.

This is ours, it comes apart in 2 pieces and is EASILY removed from the truck bed should you need to use the truck when not towing.

snow · 05-29-2007, 11:52 AM

I have a Husky/Valley 16K Slider Hitch, had it on my 2004 Chevy 2500HD..SB....took it out west 3 different time....Canadian Rockies; Oregon; Benson, AZ....anyway.....traded trucks, bought a new 2007 Chevy 2500HD...wanted to take my rails out n use them on the new truck. After paying them to take the rails off, the front rail had a diffefent bow in it from the trailer pulling it. It only had a bolt on each end, plus brkts to the frame. Guy at hitch place(DRawtite) didn,t recomend me using the rail again.Said he has seen Valley rails bow before, said they had a universal rail to use with my 16K Husky. It has 2 bolts each end n a middle front bolt in the crossover frame. Total of 10 bolts for 2 rails...plus brkts...impressive....safety first.
I like the Husky 16K hitch, u can look and see that your are hooked-up, locking arm snaps into place when truck is backed up to fifth wheel.No guessing...
To make thing easier, I installed a TrailAir on my new 2007 Montana...3075...maybe it will help the truck too.
New truck; new fifth-wheel...maiden voyage next month. Seems to ride about a 1-1/2 High, but i got on notch left to go lower on the hitch, but i,m not fully loaded yet, so , i just try it like it is the first time out.
Hope this helps you with your hitch, keep an eye on it, even after extended use. Safety First....

George & Joan Berlinger
Lapeer, Mich
2007 Chevy 2500HD SB
6-Speed Allision Tranny
Duramax Diesel
2007 Montana...3075
Husky/16K Slider Hitch
TrailAir Pin Box

Montana Sky · 05-29-2007, 11:56 AM

I love the Pullrite hitches. I have the Superglide and love it, but with my next truck I will go with a long bed. So, I will be getting the Super 5th hitch. The automatic locking mechanism around the pin is great, I can see the release handle slide into the locking position as I back under the kingpin. There are many options for hitches out there, be sure to find the one that is right for you.

sreigle · 05-29-2007, 02:39 PM

I'm always interested in "better." Someone tell me how these hitches (non auto slider) differ from my Reese.

I can see the arm come out as the hitch moves into the pin and swing back in when it engages. When the arm is in and I can flip the locking arm over it, the jaws are locked. I then can look at the jaws themselves to see they are closed around the pin. I had an RBW at one time with the bar that closes across the hitch, locking the pin in place. I can't see where there's a significant difference. What am I missing?

5ER · 06-04-2007, 02:24 AM

Steve,
I don't believe you are missing anything. This is just my opinion but it's what ever you feel comfortable with and all of the above hitch's should work fine for what we are pulling.
I just noticed that you now have an '07 Dodge truck. Since I bought my '03 F350 7.3l you have gone through several Fords. Have you had too much trouble with the new Ford diesels?

sreigle · 06-04-2007, 05:09 AM

No trouble with the Fords. We started with a 99 F350 V10 and it had some miles on it before we started fulltiming. We then traded for the 03 F350 6.0 diesel supercab. It had the stalling problem some of the early 6.0's had but they got that fixed and no more trouble. But then we took our oldest two granddaughters with us for a week. The older one is six feet tall and the younger is 5' 8". We decided we needed a crew cab and also I liked the numbers on the 2005 models. So we bought the 2005. With 85k on the 2005 I started getting a bit nervous about how the 6.0 would do when I run out of that 100k mile warranty. There have been just enough problems I decided I prefer to be within warranty. We drove the Ford, GMC, and the Dodge. The Ford impressed me and we would have bought it but after the early 6.0 problems I was hesitant about going again with a first year engine. The Dodge 6.7 really impressed me. Also, Dodge has a $3500 cashback on the 2500/3500 until July 2nd. So, between a better price and a proven engine we decided to go with the Dodge. The 6.7 is "new" but is the proven 5.9, bored and stroked, plus a different turbo and the emissions equipment. I felt it was not really a new engine like the 6.4 Ford is. We haven't towed with the Dodge yet but I'm expecting it to do a good job. Hopefully we'll take delivery today. Finally.

Jim Jarvis · 06-04-2007, 05:26 AM

Good luck with your new TV Steve. Just to let you know the new PS 6.4 is working out very well, a real beast going up the hills, same as your new Dodge will be I'm sure. I have been a Chevy guy my whole life until my last truck but I've always believed that with any of the big three you'd have a good truck.

sreigle · 06-04-2007, 07:35 AM

Thanks, Jim. That's a great looking truck you have there. I'm sure it will be a good one. If the 6.4 had a year on it already I'd have bought the Ford in a heartbeat.

5ER · 06-04-2007, 11:59 AM

That is why I bought the Ford 7.3 in '03 when the Ford 6.0 was first introduced. I was afraid of buying an unproven engine, also the difference in price was huge at the time.

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