Anti Siphon valve

[Rsc373]

Flushing the back tank this afternoon, and I hear the dreaded sound of falling water!!!! I look up to see water pouring out of the hole in the bathroom floor where the water pipes go up. I immediately shut of the water, been down this road before. So I get into the camper get the the flashlight open the drawer and yep the valve has failed again and is leaking water. Second time in 2 years, I take it all apart every thing seems okay, so I jump on Amazon to order a new one. But then I paused and decided to take off the cap, and guess what I see..... one of those stink bugs has found its way into to the inner guts and fouled it up. I tapped the valve a few times on the ground, bug falls out and crawls away!!! I put the valve back on tested it out, everything’s fine!!! Well not everything, had to empty the basement and clean up the water. But at least I still flushed out my tanks!!!!

[jcurtis934]

That little leaked is why a lot of us connected the two pipes together with brass part and put the valve outside the rv.

[Daryles]

Originally Posted by jcurtis934

That little leaked is why a lot of us connected the two pipes together with brass part and put the valve outside the rv.

I like this idea, I think. Pictures please?

[wecker1]

Agree with Dick. It's an easy do it yourself job.

[Mike3387]

I had no idea that valve could be mounted outside in the convenience center. Pictures or directions would be great. Planning to replace black tank dump valve and cable next Spring and it'd be nice to replace my anti-siphon valve at the same time.

[DQDick]

Originally Posted by Mike3387

I had no idea that valve could be mounted outside in the convenience center. Pictures or directions would be great. Planning to replace black tank dump valve and cable next Spring and it'd be nice to replace my anti-siphon valve at the same time.

Just go to most hardware stores and get something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...-undefined-_-N

They're required in restaurant mop sinks etc. so they aren't rare.

[bshgto]

Originally Posted by jcurtis934

That little leaked is why a lot of us connected the two pipes together with brass part and put the valve outside the rv.

one of the first mods I did, cant imagine a new expensive camper with a flooded floor you'll never be able to completely repair. Makes you look bad in front of the wife to. yep you should have seen that coming .

[69Roadrunner]

I realize this is an old thread, but is there a chance you can post photo of brass under your sink and the valve you added outside?
Thanks

[navybanker]

Another question is looking at youtube, it appears you can replace with the "brass" valve and use plumbers tape. And the one most people replace with on amazon is sold out and apparently may not be available again. There is a cheaper one that people have used. Seems straight forward and no need for tools. Too good to be true? Camper is an hour away so want to be prepared should I start this project. Mine is under bathroom sink. Thanks,

[beeje]

I don't know what it's going to take how many threads and how many posts to get people to understand, do away with the government-mandated valve before it floods your camper.
It doesn't matter how you do it or where you do it but simply Plum the two lines together and remove the valve.
The valve it's virtually the same as the air gap for your dishwasher that are sometimes mounted on the sink deck. They are not needed as long as there's a high Loop in the drain line

[BB_TX]

Originally Posted by beeje

............ They are not needed as long as there's a high Loop in the drain line

That is not true. The purpose of an anti siphon atmospheric vent is to break the vacuum to prevent the siphoning of water back thru a pipe. The siphoning would occur in the event of loss of water pressure in the public supply line. When pressure is lost in the main supply lines, the water begins to flow out the lowest places in the line as people open faucets or flush, pulling a vacuum on the upper parts of the line. That vacuum can pull water out of feeder lines going to buildings, outside watering systems, and yes, RVs. That is why you have air in your home water lines after the public water supply has been shut off. It would siphon water even from an elevated loop if there were no vent to relieve that negative pressure. Highly unlikely the specific conditions would be right for it to pull any black water contaminates from an RV flush system, but possible. And that is why it is mandated. If it is possible, someone will find a way to do it.


Think of siphoning gas from a car gas tank. You run a hose down the filler tube. It goes up in a higher loop and then down into some container (or the ground). And the outside end of the hose is lower than the hose end in the tank. You suck on the hose to create a vacuum to pull gas up thru the hose and down to the lower outside part of the hose. And then the siphoning will pull gas up thru the loop and down and continue to run out the outside end.

[BB_TX]

You are not the first to report a bug in the valve causing it to leak. They need to at least install a screen to prevent that. In addition to redesigning those valves so that they are not so prone to failure.

[DQDick]

On both Montys we removed the inside valve and went to using a metal one in the convenience center.

[BuilderBob]

Agree with Dick through that thing in the garbage and get one that goes on the outside!

[RoadRunnerTR21]

I did the bypass of the anti siphon valve behind the convenience center wall. If someone just looked into the storage bay or the bathroom sink, they would think everything is stock. I also use a brass anti siphon valve on the convenience center black water hookup. Easy mod.

[BB_TX]

Here is a picture of mine after the anti siphon valve has been removed. I removed the valve and connected the lines back together. The pink in the lines is antifreeze as I had recently winterized the trailer. And the links below are examples of external anti siphon vacuum breaker valves.


https://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VA...reaker/3353894


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Woodford...H-BR/204792578

[mlh]

Just take it off and throw it away. You don’t need it. Connect the two pipes together and you will never have any more trouble with it.
Lynwood

[Bad Moon]

Originally Posted by mlh

Just take it off and throw it away. You don’t need it. Connect the two pipes together and you will never have any more trouble with it.
Lynwood

The anti-siphon valve is there to prevent contamination of the fresh water system, not just your trailer, but the whole park. Backflow is serious business, little understood, and not the realm of shade-tree mechanics. Sorry to be blunt, but this isn’t the first time someone suggested “just take it off and throw it away”.

[bshgto]

Originally Posted by Bad Moon

The anti-siphon valve is there to prevent contamination of the fresh water system, not just your trailer, but the whole park. Backflow is serious business, little understood, and not the realm of shade-tree mechanics. Sorry to be blunt, but this isn’t the first time someone suggested “just take it off and throw it away”.

You can take it off and throw it away then connect the pipes together with a one way flow brass fitting brass fitting then put the back flow anti siphon fitting on the hose outlet in the conveyance center and this wont do any damage if it leaks, this is how I dealt with it.

Replace original plastic fitting with the stronger brass anti siphon valve but still risk the leak or potential flood in the camper

Although a code requirement in some states/counties especially with well systems my plumber says a backflow condition to the public water supply would be extremely rare and never heard of it happening in his 39 year career.

Or just cap the pipes off altogether under the sink with Shark Bites caps. Do you think that little nozzle in the tank really dose anything to clean out the tank any more than adding more water to the tank and dumping again which is what you should be doing anyway.

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by bshgto

You can take it off and throw it away then connect the pipes together with a one way flow brass fitting brass fitting then put the back flow anti siphon fitting on the hose outlet in the conveyance center and this wont do any damage if it leaks, this is how I dealt with it.

Replace original plastic fitting with the stronger brass anti siphon valve but still risk the leak or potential flood in the camper

Although a code requirement in some states/counties especially with well systems my plumber says a backflow condition to the public water supply would be extremely rare and never heard of it happening in his 39 year career.

Or just cap the pipes off altogether under the sink with Shark Bites caps. Do you think that little nozzle in the tank really dose anything to clean out the tank any more than adding more water to the tank and dumping again which is what you should be doing anyway.

I do like the idea of using this style of vacuum breaker as opposed to the one that's in the unit.



However, wouldn't it make sense to put this on the end of the hose that attaches to the water supply side? That way, there is never any water that is spilled in the convenience center. And, if there was a sudden backflow condition, the breaker would pop, and no water should be pulled into the water supply. Maybe I don't understand the "fix" that was outlined in this post, and that's entirely possible.

ON EDIT: Actually, a fair number of the campsites that we've stayed at have these type of vacuum breakers on the water spigots already, and they are kind of a nuisance because they spew water all over you when you turn the faucet off. If I was to put one of these in the convenience center, I don't want that thing spewing water every time that I turn the hose off.

The one reason for leaving it in there is when you sell. I would be the prudent thing to make sure that the unit is to code when you sell it. If you kept the valve, you could always put it back together when you sold it.

As for just dumping (no pun intended) the power flush sprayer system all together, it does seem like something that should work fairly well, and at this point, I'm not game to disable the whole thing just quite yet...