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Old 02-28-2018, 03:59 AM   #21
Phil P
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Hi

Our Silverado sits level when hooked to the Montana with OEM suspension!

Phil P
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Old 02-28-2018, 04:19 AM   #22
WeBeFulltime
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Originally Posted by speedster100 View Post
The beauty of the 3790/91 is you can load it heavy on the rear or the front due in part to the huge storage in each area. We keep most of the weight other than our bikes in the rear and thus the pin weight is right in around the 2900lb mark. Trailer & truck ride better with the weight on the rear.... Its a model that gives you choices......
There is a reason that U-Haul says load heaviest items in the front of a trailer. It's called "tail wag" and I'm sure they have seen it many times. It is very dangerous and can have you in a situation you can't recover from in the bat of an eye. A trailer of ANY kind should never be loaded heavier in the rear. I trucked for 20 years and 3.5 million miles and have seen the outcome of it.
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:02 AM   #23
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Our '16 3500 has the auto level system. When I first hook up the fiver, (3100 RL) I touch the auto level button and the truck lowers itself an inch or two to get everything level. I would not think air bags would be necessary on a similar rig w/o auto level. Truck, rig, us, dogs and all our junk totals right at 24,000 lbs.
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:49 AM   #24
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Ford may have messed my 2016 F350 SRW up. Hook my 2017 370BR up and level.
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Old 02-28-2018, 10:45 AM   #25
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I put airbags on all my trucks...rides much nicer resting on bags instead of leaf springs when towing...also its nice to be able to control rear suspension if needed.
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Old 02-28-2018, 11:20 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by WeBeFulltime View Post
There is a reason that U-Haul says load heaviest items in the front of a trailer. It's called "tail wag" and I'm sure they have seen it many times. It is very dangerous and can have you in a situation you can't recover from in the bat of an eye. A trailer of ANY kind should never be loaded heavier in the rear. I trucked for 20 years and 3.5 million miles and have seen the outcome of it.
Agreed. Makes sense because most units have the largest storage area in the front, plus the heavy batteries and propane tanks. I have my Firestones on order from etrailer.com
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Old 02-28-2018, 05:17 PM   #27
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I thought my trailer was level till i took it to mor-ryde for the I.S. They installed 3'' blocks at all 4 wheels to level the trailer. I have air-bags and run about 40 lbs in them but obviously i wasn't doing anything for the rear. I think sometimes we think we are level when we aren't. I prefer airbags but to each his own.
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Old 03-01-2018, 10:10 AM   #28
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I thought my trailer was level till i took it to mor-ryde for the I.S. They installed 3'' blocks at all 4 wheels to level the trailer. I have air-bags and run about 40 lbs in them but obviously i wasn't doing anything for the rear. I think sometimes we think we are level when we aren't. I prefer airbags but to each his own.
a couple of questions come to mind... what are you using to tow it with? Second, by raising it 3", what is your new overall trailer height? I'd hate to read that you had an encounter with a bridge 'cuz you forgot to take the extra height into consideration.
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Old 03-01-2018, 05:57 PM   #29
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Because of the mounting of the IS, Mor/ryde needs to weld on a sub-frame to the OEM frame, and it generally doesn't raise the overall height of the RV. They will measure your unit while hooked to your TV from the frame to ground and install the proper sub-frame to maintain the same height.
I've been through the process three times.
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Old 03-01-2018, 06:15 PM   #30
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Had it done twice and in both cases lowered the Montana by a few inches.
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Old 03-01-2018, 06:45 PM   #31
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To sound naÔve but what is an I.S.
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Old 03-01-2018, 07:17 PM   #32
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IS = Independent Suspension
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Old 03-01-2018, 10:01 PM   #33
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My 2017 F350 DRW does not squat at all with our loaded 3155RL hooked up. (2850 dry pin weight). If I was going to put air bags on it, Iíd go with Helwig no drill set up. No compressor, 40 min install.
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Old 03-01-2018, 11:51 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by BiggarView View Post
a couple of questions come to mind... what are you using to tow it with? Second, by raising it 3", what is your new overall trailer height? I'd hate to read that you had an encounter with a bridge 'cuz you forgot to take the extra height into consideration.
I tow with a ram 3500 4wd. As for as the height, i was 13.5'' before and after measuring from the front air which is the highest point on just about anybody's trailer. Remember, you've actually raising the rv straight up at the wheels so you won't be raising the front up at all.In fact, if you kept raising the rv at the wheels then you would eventually be lowering the front on account the wheels and hitch are the only points of contact. I could raise the front by adding more air to the airbags on the truck or more air in the airbags on the hensley hitch. Mor-Ryde always measures the rv before installing there I.S. so they can give you the most level ride. While my rv might be level with my set-up there might have to be more or less raising of your rv to fit your particular truck and hitch.
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Old 03-02-2018, 07:16 AM   #35
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I tow with a ram 3500 4wd. As for as the height, i was 13.5'' before and after measuring from the front air which is the highest point on just about anybody's trailer. Remember, you've actually raising the rv straight up at the wheels so you won't be raising the front up at all.In fact, if you kept raising the rv at the wheels then you would eventually be lowering the front on account the wheels and hitch are the only points of contact. I could raise the front by adding more air to the airbags on the truck or more air in the airbags on the hensley hitch. Mor-Ryde always measures the rv before installing there I.S. so they can give you the most level ride. While my rv might be level with my set-up there might have to be more or less raising of your rv to fit your particular truck and hitch.
With an exception made for the new basement garage floor plans that have roofs that donít taper off to the rear
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Old 03-02-2018, 08:06 PM   #36
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I installed an on-board wireless air compressor and air lift 5000 air bags on my 2017 DRW F350. No regrets. We full time in our 3811ms (3400 lb. pin weight give or take? Not sure but will find out soon when I take it to Cat Scales). I keep 10-15 lbs in when unhooked and 40 lbs when hooked up. Ride is smoother and level. I highly recommend installing bags and on-board air compressor.
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Old 03-22-2018, 12:11 PM   #37
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I'm pulling my 3720rl with a F-350 Superduty SRW HD and didn't seem to have any problems last season with. No real sag and both truck and rig handled easy and under control. My Question is I see a lot of guys have DRW with pretty much same rigs. Is it more of a personal preference or how the truck is set up?
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Old 03-22-2018, 12:27 PM   #38
mtlakejim
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I'm pulling my 3720rl with a F-350 Superduty SRW HD and didn't seem to have any problems last season with. No real sag and both truck and rig handled easy and under control. My Question is I see a lot of guys have DRW with pretty much same rigs. Is it more of a personal preference or how the truck is set up?
This is one of those get the popcorn questions that will induce a long and heated debate.

As everyone on here clearly knows by now I am a big advocate for getting more truck than you need. I will however shock everyone and tell you if your truck is currently meeting your needs go with it. The reason most of us go with the DRW is because we want to be prepared for a larger 5th wheel down the road or simply want a little extra safety cushion. There are debates on several strings on this site about the merits and drawbacks to DRW.

If your happy with what you have that's good enough.
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Old 03-22-2018, 12:32 PM   #39
KemoLondon
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Originally Posted by mtlakejim View Post
This is one of those get the popcorn questions that will induce a long and heated debate.

As everyone on here clearly knows by now I am a big advocate for getting more truck than you need. I will however shock everyone and tell you if your truck is currently meeting your needs go with it. The reason most of us go with the DRW is because we want to be prepared for a larger 5th wheel down the road or simply want a little extra safety cushion. There are debates on several strings on this site about the merits and drawbacks to DRW.

If your happy with what you have that's good enough.
Thanks Jim. I used to drive semi in a past life and understand towing capacities and controlling and stopping the trailer. Our rig is right at 40ft and roughly 16k loaded. My 350 pulls and stops it with no problem. Can't imagine going any bigger. I even had to slam the brakes on bringing it home for a ambulance going thru a light.
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Old 03-22-2018, 12:41 PM   #40
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Thanks Jim. I used to drive semi in a past life and understand towing capacities and controlling and stopping the trailer. Our rig is right at 40ft and roughly 16k loaded. My 350 pulls and stops it with no problem. Can't imagine going any bigger. I even had to slam the brakes on bringing it home for a ambulance going thru a light.
That experience makes all the difference in the world!!! I have towed all my life so I feel confident offering advice, especially to newbees. If you had been someone who had never towed before (much less a truck driver) and you didn't already have a tow truck you were happy with my advice would have been very different!

All I will say is I have found the DRW to be a more stable towing platform overall and it is the main reason we went that route (it sure wasn't because we wanted to save money or liked the looks of a fat rear end).......
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