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Old 06-16-2009, 03:13 PM   #21
KathyandDave
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Our reply is wayyy late!
We were in a CG where the "siding" to get to the dump hole was on the wrong side, too short, tightly curved and encumbered by trees for the rig to fit in, so we had to park on the main exit road and pull the sewer hose under the trailer and over to the dump hole. Fortunately, that same week, I had impulsively bought an extension and extender fitting for our Rhino hose, so we just made it. We also carry extra water hose and have needed it.
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:50 PM   #22
grampachet
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We use a 25' section of flexible PVC and have a 10' piece of spirolite we use with our sewer solution. This works for us and have never had a problem....yet.
Here is a pic of our 'convenient convenience' center. This is plumbed permanently and makes the setup and teardown much quicker.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
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Old 06-16-2009, 05:27 PM   #23
Art-n-Marge
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Grampachet, that is a nice manifold setup but my plumbing on the 3500RL isn't practical for that kind of set up since the fresh water inlet is at the rear corner, the sewer outlet fitting is in the center of the RV and the black flush fitting is toward the front of the RV. That being said, here's my story...

From what I am finding, it is better to have more shorter lengths of sewer hose than just one or two long ones. Shorter sewer hoses means that a straighter more correct length is better than hoses so long they wind around and create low points where the "drain liquid" can collect. I have seen some sewer drains with no support that attach to the RV outlet and they use a 20' hose to go 4 to five feet and it just lies on the ground in a wound up mess.

I have a 15' and 20' sewer hose, but I plan to cut them to a 5' and three 10 footers and create new finished ends to attach the extension couplings. I also prefer to use the longest slinky/slunky made that stretches out 15' (there may be longer). The good thing about the slinky/slunky is that it accordians so it works just fine for a short run. The bad news is that it is not always long enough, so I also have the three piece gutter style for longer runs. I bought these at an RV store, but a cheaper solution is to buy 4" PVC and rip it down the middle to create the halves. The goal is to create that straight shot to the sewer fitting to have the best draining possible. Leaving the hose on the ground flat and wound up just does not seem practical.

For fresh water hoses, I have 2 x 25' hoses. These don't hurt being too short or too long because coiling isn't so bad since they operate on pressure, not gravity. I used to use the flat style nylon weave hose that took up less space but where we camp mostly in the southern California desert-like areas I have lost too many of them to sharp thorns or rocks (it does not take much to cause a pinhole leak. Reverting back to the standard hoses and I haven't had one break since. I also use separate grey water hoses for the Tornado backflush for the black tank and at the sewer outlet fitting. I use Y connectors at the water supply and anti-siphon in-line adapters to prevent contamination and there you have it.

Speaking of anti-siphon adapters. I use them but I HATE THEM! They are constantly cracking and failing all the time. Does anyone else have this problem with this terrible quality? I can't seem to find metallic types and would be willing to pay the price versus the constant replacement of this plastic crap if they exist. Do I need to ask for a different thing that would work? When I ask for anti-siphon adapters I always get directed to this crap at Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace Hardware. The RV stores I go to don't seem to have them either.
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Old 06-16-2009, 07:18 PM   #24
grampachet
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The anti siphon valves I have are metal, I believe I got them at an old hardware store in SE Portland, OR. As for the sewer hose, I use the Sewer Solution with 1" flexable PVC. Neat stuff, it glues just like PVC pipe but it is flexable like a hose. Using the SS there is no problem with a coil of the discharge hose. I have a friend who has a 35' coil and never has a problem and he is a full timer.
The set up I use has never cause any problem in over 3 years of use. One year with the Montana and 2 years with sob.
Thanks for the compliment on the "manifold." Since I used to drill wells and install pumps this was like a fun project.
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Old 06-17-2009, 02:03 AM   #25
tim43
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For those of you with with two sewer outlets, including myself, set your lines up using a "Y" connector just short of the sewer connection or do you dump the shower tank, followed by the black tank, rinse, and then reconnect and dump the galley tank? Sorry about that long sentence.
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Old 06-17-2009, 04:49 AM   #26
grampachet
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We only have one sewer outlet which I am thankful for as two sounds like extra work.
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Old 06-17-2009, 06:46 AM   #27
beakyfudd
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tim43, as a weekender mostly, sometimes i don't even hook-up my drain hose until we're ready to leave. and then, i drain black tank, grey tank, and finally kitchen tank. no need to rinse, since the soapy water is cleaning the hose. jim
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:47 AM   #28
sreigle
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Every one of my sewer hoses has connectors semi-permanently (removable if required) mounted on each end. All I have to do is connect them together to get the length I need.

The only time I worry about having a slant on the hose is when we will have freezing weather. Then I use my half-rounds and whatever else needed to keep it from having any sags and making sure gravity empties the hose.

One thing I see all the time is people laying the hose on concrete, gravel, or other hard surfaces. If you've ever experienced a hose suddenly sprouting a bunch of pinhole leaks, it's because when you dump it shimmies against those hard surfaces and eventually rubs a hole in the hose. I'll lay mine on grass or dirt without rocks but otherwise it will not be on the ground.
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Old 06-23-2009, 03:36 AM   #29
smc
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We always have 30'. We mounted a white abs 5" pipe at the back of the trailer, store the hose in it and use it as support for the hose.
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