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Old 06-27-2009, 07:16 AM   #1
KTManiac
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MOR/ryde wet bolt & shackle kit arrived....

The MOR/ryde wet bolt & shackle kit that I ordered at the Spring Rally arrived yesterday. Yippee!

Being that I always seem to be the guy that has missing parts in just about everything I ever buy, I opened up the box right away to check the contents. I matched up and sort of pre-assembled all of the parts to make sure that all of the nuts & bolts had been included. Now, I am confused, since I seem to have 16 extra 3/8-16 X 1" long bolts and matching lock nuts! There was no parts list or instructions included with the kit, so the only thing that I can think of is that they are for mounting equalizer assemblies to the frame, if I were to have purchased an RE kit as a retrofit. Anybody have a clue on this?

Another thing is, since there were no instructions of any kind, does anybody know what the torque specs are for the wet bolts and Z-brackets? I was going to call MOR/ryde yesterday, but it was too late after I was done checking out the kit.

Are you out there Stiles? You have done a number of these in the past, I think.
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Old 06-27-2009, 07:47 AM   #2
stiles watson
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Glad you got your kit. The bolts in question are for you to attach the "Z" bracket assemblies to the rubber springs. Your new "Z" bracket assemblies are to replace the "Z" brackets that are currently on your MOR/ryde equalizer rubber springs.

The assembly is two "Z"brackets with a collar welded between them and a brass bushing already pressed into place. This was necessary so that the new zerk bolt would have a place for the grease to go.

On bolt torque, you are tightening the lock nuts to pull the ears of the "Z" brackets against the rubber spring. Since they are lock nuts, backing off is not an issue, but be sure you completely close the gap.

On the zerk bolts, you are tightening against a shoulder, so the tension is not against the shackle. Sixty pounds of torque will do.
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Old 06-27-2009, 09:44 AM   #3
hookman
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I picked mine up yesterday in Blaine, Wa I will check them when we get home tomorrow.
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Old 06-27-2009, 11:40 AM   #4
Art-n-Marge
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Hey Stiles... another question. What should the torque be for the zerk fittings that go on the ends of the bolts? When I had mine installed and I took a look underneath at what was done, I found someone went nuts with the grease gun. As I was cleaning off the fittings I found them all pretty loose, some almost falling off. I tightened them down a little bit but not to any particular torque.

What do you recommend? Maybe 15 to 20 lbs? Probably not much cuz I don't want to strip them, but I don't want them to loosen when I grease up.
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Old 06-27-2009, 01:00 PM   #5
stiles watson
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On the zerks I use what I call mechanic's torque. I firm them up without over tightening. The threads are small, so I don't want to strip them. I would not want it to happen, but if one fell off, it is not a major disaster, just inconvenient.
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Old 06-27-2009, 04:59 PM   #6
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Kt, Mine arrived yesterday also. I installed them today. It sure would be easier with another set of helping hands. I also had extra grade 8 bolts, nuts. Bill
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Old 06-27-2009, 07:12 PM   #7
stiles watson
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Crossthread, I am not understanding. Did you have more than the 8 bolts and lock nuts required to replace the ones already attaching the "Z" brackets to your rubber spring?
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Old 06-27-2009, 07:19 PM   #8
stiles watson
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FYI, the eight grade 8 bolts are to replace the bolts currently being used to attach the "Z" brackets to the rubber spring. The ones that come off are not to be reused according to the MOR/ryde tech people.
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Old 06-27-2009, 07:30 PM   #9
Crossthread
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Stiles, Yes I have 16 grade 8 5/16 x 1" bolts, nuts with the kit. Those, I suppose is for installing both rubber spring inserts. I noticed a lot of corrosion on the inside of the aluminum wheels (where thy bolt against the hub) when I removed the wheels. Another maintenance day. Bill
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Old 06-27-2009, 08:01 PM   #10
stiles watson
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Yeah, it is always something else.
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Old 06-27-2009, 09:34 PM   #11
KTManiac
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Stiles,

What I have extras of are, a quantity of sixteen(16) 3/8-16 UNC X 1" long (Grade 8 hardness) bolts and matching nuts. I had already accounted for the quantity of Eight(8) 7/16-14 UNC X 1.250" long (Grade 5 hardness) bolts and nuts for the Z-brackets.

The shoulder bolts that have the zerks in them have a 7/16-20 UNF thread on them, and I assume that they are also Grade 5, as they have the 3 radial hash marks on the head that denote that grade. I had previously thought that all shoulder bolts were Grade 8, but that may have been because they were socket head bolts instead of hex head like these are. Dunno for sure now!

Anyway, from some torque charts that I found online, they seem to recommend 50 to 52 ft/lbs for the 7/16-14 bolts, which are the Z-bracket bolts, and 55 to 57 ft/lbs for the 7/16-20 bolts, which are the shoulder bolts with the zerks. Of course, all of the online charts have a disclaimer clause that states "use the bolt manufacturers recommended torque values" if they differ from ours.

So, it looks like you are in the ballpark with your torque value of 60 ft/lbs, but I think that I will give MOR/ryde a call on Monday and see what they have to say on the matter.



Crossthread,

I didn't have any 5/16" bolts of any kind. Are you sure that you're not off a size on your measurement?


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Old 06-28-2009, 04:23 AM   #12
Crossthread
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Kt,I could be off, I was beat when I went out to check them,Bill
They are 3/8ths,sorry
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Old 06-28-2009, 06:12 AM   #13
stiles watson
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Ok, I was thinking of the wrong bolts. The bolts you describe sound like the ones that hold the rubber spring to the MOR/ryde bracket that is welded to the frame. If that is so, you would not need them unless you were to replace the rubber spring itself.

I had to replace the rubber spring on one side. That is a chore to get inside to those small nuts in a small place. Those lock nuts fight you all the way off and all the way on. I did it twice because I thought I had put it on upside down, so removed it, determined it was right and put it right back on. I really did not need the practice.
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:14 AM   #14
Tom S.
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Art-n-Marge

Hey Stiles... another question. What should the torque be for the zerk fittings that go on the ends of the bolts? When I had mine installed and I took a look underneath at what was done, I found someone went nuts with the grease gun. As I was cleaning off the fittings I found them all pretty loose, some almost falling off. I tightened them down a little bit but not to any particular torque.

What do you recommend? Maybe 15 to 20 lbs? Probably not much cuz I don't want to strip them, but I don't want them to loosen when I grease up.
Art,

The zerk fittings would be a tapered pipe thread and hand snug with a small wrench is fine. If you have a torque wrench, 20 lbs - (or 240 in lbs) will be sufficient.
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:02 AM   #15
KTManiac
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Well, a call to MOR/ryde reveals that the recommended torques are as follows:

The 7/16-14 UNC X 1.25 long (grade 5) bolts for the Z-Bracket to rubber shear spring connection calls for 40 ft/lbs., as per the following torque chart in their RE kit installation instructions. See page #2. (As a side bar, notice the shocks in the drawing. Very interesting! But, that's another topic of debate!)
MOR/ryde RE Installation Instructions

The 7/16-20 UNF (grade 5) wet bolts(a Dexter part) with the zerk fitting, they said 30-50 ft/lbs, as per the following Dexter document. See page 6, step #3. Based on torque differences between the two thread pitches of 14 tpi(threads per inch) vs 20 tpi in other charts, I would recommend 45 ft/lbs for the wet bolts.
Dexter Axle document



Tom S. and Art-n-Marge,

A torque value is not usually a valid consideration for NPT(National Pipe Taper) fittings, except, that aircraft applications usually require torque tolerances to comply to their standards.

Generally, in a typical non flight-critical application, the tapered female threads are supposed to be tapped to a specific pitch diameter at the top surface of the hole, using a special go/no-go gauge to determine that tolerance. For the mating fittings, the zerk in this case, as a general guideline, after finger-tight engagement, tighten a further 2-3 full turns for sizes up to 1 inches for NPT fittings.

Most people use "feel" for proper tightness to assemble NPT fittings to achieve the sealing properties which they are designed for. After you snap a few of these things off, you soon get good at it, trust me! Also, if a fitting is used in different materials (aluminum, plastic, brass, etc.), Torque goes right out the window, because a tapered thread can easily strip the threads or even crack the part that the fitting screws into.

Now that I have thoroughly confused everybody with the mystical intricacy of proper NPT tightening, all of this goes out the window with these wet bolts! On the ones that I received, the shoulder of the zerk bottoms out on the face of the bolt. Not at all a proper exercise in NPT correctness! If the fitting bottoms out before the tapered thread engagement seals, you will never keep it from leaking through the threads.
.....But there is still joy to be had. Since there is no pressure to cause a leak in the threads(to wit: the grease will be leaking out at the ends of the bushing anyway), it's all a moot point.

So, for this application, you just need to tighten them enough so they won't be loosened by the grease gun tip when you pull it off of the zerk. I really think that 20 ft/lbs is way too much if you feel the need to have to use a torque wrench on the zerks. 5 ft/lbs should be more than enough, unless you think you need to get in some practice using your EASY-OUT broken bolt extractor set.

....We now return you to the regularly scheduled program.
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Old 07-01-2009, 05:48 AM   #16
hookman
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Just snug up the Zerks with a wrench. They are National Pipe Thread and are not usually torqued.
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