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Old 02-10-2007, 04:48 AM   #1
nailbender
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Potential water leak

I was installing pipe insulation to quiet the water lines when using the water pump and noticed a problem with the lines going to the shower. The lines go through metal ductwork and the holes in the metal are very ragged and sharp. To avoid having the lines rub and eventually leak, I am going to caulk around the holes.



Don
 
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Old 02-10-2007, 05:14 AM   #2
rickety
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That doesn't look happy. Good idea about using caulk around them.
"Old world craftsmanship at it's finest"
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Old 02-10-2007, 05:21 AM   #3
BillyRay
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isn't there smaller pipe insulation you could use that is smaller that make fit in those holes?
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Old 02-10-2007, 05:41 AM   #4
nailbender
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BillyRay The holes are sort of hacked out and not big enough to use pipe wrap, more and less than 3/8" clearance around the pipes.

Don
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Old 02-10-2007, 06:14 AM   #5
Cat320
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Re those ragged holes, I've put a small piece of old garden hose around the hose I'm trying to protect and secured it with plastic ties.
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Old 02-10-2007, 09:45 AM   #6
sreigle
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good catch, Don. I think I can probably (hopefully) address this from inside the coach, in our rig, rather than dropping the bellypan.
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Old 02-10-2007, 12:08 PM   #7
nailbender
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Steve,
You can get to the pipes from the basement area. Remove the access panel to the heater and you will see the pipes behind the heater going up to the shower. It will be a lot easier to see the pipes than reaching them, I had to climb inside the basement.
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Old 02-10-2007, 12:29 PM   #8
Ozzie
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They must've used a small hole saw for that - looks like a good spot for split grommets or plumbers putty?
Caulking may be a challenge with as much room as it has...might get the droopies...and require access from above and below.
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Old 02-10-2007, 03:39 PM   #9
sreigle
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by nailbender

Steve,
You can get to the pipes from the basement area. Remove the access panel to the heater and you will see the pipes behind the heater going up to the shower. It will be a lot easier to see the pipes than reaching them, I had to climb inside the basement.
Thanks, Don. Now that you mention it, I do recall seeing pipes in that area when I removed that panel and crawled into the basement to address some loose connections causing water leaks. All three times, as a matter of fact. I didn't look closely at those lines, though, and don't specifically remember seeing those particular lines.
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Old 02-11-2007, 05:49 AM   #10
rrheik
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Thanks Don for the tip.

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Old 02-19-2007, 01:43 PM   #11
Native Tex
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Wow Guys! I need to look inside of ours after seeing these horribly looking holes. I am sure the process has not improved. Does wrapping the exit lines from the water pump help reduce some of the noise? I've been thinking about putting in one of those quiet pumps but hate to cut loose the funds. If this will help, I'll give it a try.
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Old 02-19-2007, 01:59 PM   #12
Illini Trekker
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Boy that would have been a shame if they would have ran the line ether under or over the duct?SeeYa
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Old 02-19-2007, 03:31 PM   #13
Driftwoodgal
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Ok, here is an idea that I have..... Could you use the stuff that they use to fill in holes around windows and doors? I think it is called "Big Stuff" This is in a can and you spray it in an area that you want to seal and then it becomes hard. It comes out like a foam and then it hardens. You can spray it anywhere and it sticks to everything. Just a thought... has anyone else used this?

Colleen
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Old 02-19-2007, 04:02 PM   #14
nailbender
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Native Tex, There are a lot of areas where the water lines touch the aluminum framing and I put the foam pipe insulation around the pipes to isolate them. Haven't tried it out yet, I blew the water out of the lines for the winter, but I sure it will make a difference. I didn't insulate all the lines completely, but still used about 16' of material.

Colleen, The foam spray would work, but would have to be very careful not get too much into the metal duck, some of the foams expand a lot.
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