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Old 05-30-2015, 05:49 PM   #1
Keith Schweizer
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Landing Gear issues

The last few outings in my 09 2955rl the motor driven front landing gear has been straining to lift trailer high enough to unhook and then again to hook up. I have blown the 30 amp inline fuse at least a dozen times. Something either in the legs or the reduction gear seems to be binding.I have never bent the legs and have always followed the same procedure for hooking up to hitch and unhook. Anyone who may have had issues like this might have a solution to this?? The batteries are the ones that I had installed in trailer when new.( 4-6 volt deep cycle interstates) Could 7 year old batteries be a possible cause if they are starting to fail. Being on shore power or batteries seems to give me the same blown fuse result.
When the trailer is not being used it is kept in a garage out of the weather.

A suggestions to resolve this would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
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Old 05-30-2015, 06:48 PM   #2
sambam
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Although your batteries may be past their prime, I doubt they are the reason for your landing gear problem. Maybe some lubrication of the moving parts will help. After years of operation, moving parts start to bind a bit. Try some WD40 or other lightweight lube. If it works, put something more long-lasting on, like a teflon lube. I hope this helps.
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Old 05-31-2015, 12:50 AM   #3
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Hi

I have been thru 2 sets left and right and now run new legs, motors and gear boxes purchased from the manufacturer of the legs not Keystone. Keystone doesn’t use the motor that the leg manufacturer makes and it is of a different speed and the gear box is a different gear ratio.

I found this out when I purchased the 2 new legs and a second gear box and motor from the leg manufacturer to change to the 2 motor / gearbox arrangement. After installing the new legs and the second motor / gear box the new motor / gearbox extended the leg much slower. I purchased the second motor / gear box from the leg manufacturer and they now both run slower but work a lot better than the original system.

I cut the old legs open and found the large screw that runs down the inside of the legs to have striped the nut that it runs on. This is most likely because of the heat buildup created running the screws at a higher seed than the manufacture of the legs intended them to run.

After checking the battery and replacing the circuit breaker with a new 30 amp breaker if you still have a problem I would purchase a new motor from the leg manufacturer.

Phil P

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Old 05-31-2015, 03:50 AM   #4
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Phil's right about the speed. I've also gone to a two motor setup that runs slower, but will lift 12k with no problem. I guess Keystone felt owner's would be too impatient with slower running legs. I could change my new ones to run faster, but then they'd lift less weight, and I don't want to sacrifice that for speed.

There's several threads about problems with the stock single motor legs. Might try looking them up.
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:51 AM   #5
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While raising my landing gear legs, they started to slip when the load got to be too great. Although not in this order, I took apart the 3:1 reduction gearbox and checked the spur gears and they appeared to be ok. I checked the bevel gears on the legs and they appeared to be ok. Then, took the legs off and checked the thrust bearing and it appeared to be ok. Took the legs apart even further to check the threaded rod for wear, and it was ok too. The problem ended up being the gear box attached to the motor. It had about 4 gears in it, and there was movement in the smaller gears attached to the motor shaft in this gearbox. You can’t buy this gearbox alone, it comes with the motor. This is not the larger 3:1 reduction gearbox, by the way. As Phil stated, there is an RPM difference in the manufacture supplied and replacement motor/gearbox. The motor the manufacture supplied was 7140 rpm and the replacement one was 5500 rpm. This is a noticeable and significant difference, and appears to take twice as long to raise the unit as before. Also, this is not a very complicated fix and can be accomplished with everyday tools. I replaced ALL the parts mentioned before, except the threaded rod, even though they looked ok. I thought, I have to start replacing something. So, through elimination, I finally found the problem. Oddly, the first thing I checked was the gearbox attached to the motor with the movement in it. I thought to myself, that isn’t enough to cause the problem and ruled it out, but it was. I should have started my replacements there, because I could have saved a bunch of time and a few dollars. Luckily, most of the parts aren’t too pricey. Hope I didn’t bore you all with this.
Here is a link to the landing gear assemblies if ya need it.
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/5th-wheel-landing-gear
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Old 05-31-2015, 05:15 AM   #6
Keith Schweizer
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Thanks to everyone for your input on my gear issue. I have looked into a new motor and reduction gear box. Yes I do have the faster running (china made) motor. More rpm, but less torque. I would take more lifting power any day over the higher rpm. Whats one more Corona when setting up. I do have an extended warranty on 5 er so I hope this helps me with the pending repairs.
Would there be a major advantage to adding a second motor to lift front? Other than putting less stress on just motor. One of the smaller fifth wheels, yet I carry 2 Honda 2000 generators in front compartment, and the 4 6 volt batteries.
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Old 05-31-2015, 11:46 PM   #7
Phil P
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Quote:
quote:[i]
Here is a link to the landing gear assemblies if ya need it.
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/5th-wheel-landing-gear
Thanks for the link it will come in handy.

Did you install a second switch for you second motor? I am using the original switch and a winch relay to operate both landing gear at the same time. I did put a simple toggle switch at the passenger side behind the propane bottle in order to get the 2 legs back in sink. Even though I purchased both motors from the leg manufacturer the passenger side leg gets extended a little further each time you use it and after 4 or 5 operations is about an inch different than the driver’s side.

Phil P
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:48 AM   #8
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quote:Originally posted by Phil P

.......I cut the old legs open and found the large screw that runs down the inside of the legs to have striped the nut that it runs on. This is most likely because of the heat buildup created running the screws at a higher seed than the manufacture of the legs intended them to run...........

Phil P

That is a huge problem with these things, no good way (read: easy and not messy) to lube the nut and leadscrew. Mine are now binding. Hopefully, the nut is not too far gone yet. Next project is to pull the legs and figure a way to grease them by adding a zerk fitting somehow.
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Old 07-24-2020, 12:17 PM   #9
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How do I retracked the front landing gear if I have a dead battery? 2013 290 RLT
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Old 07-24-2020, 12:23 PM   #10
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How do I retracked the front landing gear if I have a dead battery? 2013 290 RLT
Several options:
-Recharge your battery and use it (best)
-Connect jumper cables to good battery
-Use shore power
-Use drill to run pump
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Old 07-24-2020, 05:04 PM   #11
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You should have a crank handle in the garage area that came with the trailer. It connects in the drivers side propane tank area. You're going to get some exercise with that.
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Old 07-24-2020, 07:36 PM   #12
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I drilled a hole on the side of the landing gear near the top on both. I could feel the drill bit touch the rod when it went through. I use a pump oil can and lube the threads by pumping oil through the hole. First time it made an oil mess at the bottom of the landing gear, so I knew the whole rod got lubed.

Every once in a while, I shoot some oil in to keep things lubed.
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Old 07-24-2020, 09:48 PM   #13
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I had a 2006 2980 model. The gear in the legs needs lube. I think it was recommended that you use gear oil. Mine had a sort of pop on or clip on cover on top. Remove it and drizzle some oil down the inside.
Also, my motor went bad and wouldn't lift the front end at one point. A dealer ordered a new motor. Before I drove off the lot I tested it and the legs moved much faster, but it blew the inline fuse they had added. Went right back and they ordered the slower speed (correct) motor. I think they paid to overnight it. Everything worked great after that.
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Old 07-24-2020, 09:59 PM   #14
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You should have a crank handle in the garage area that came with the trailer. It connects in the drivers side propane tank area. You're going to get some exercise with that.
Thank you so very much
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Old 08-01-2020, 07:23 PM   #15
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I took the bottom plate of landing jack off and took a piece of I think 3/4" round pipe insulation foam and put grease on the inside of insulation and pushed it up from the bottom and turned it as I pushed and it greased the long threaded shaft.
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