Bulb Type and Removal

[stengels]

I need some help in identifying the type of bulb I need, and more importantly, how to change it out. The light is the one over my island, the one that extends down from the ceiling and has the small bell-shaped glass globe. I can't tell if it pulls our or what. Doesn't appear to screw out. Looks like the same type bulb as I have over the vanities, which I haven't had to replace yet. Anyone know what I have?

[Happycamperscolorado]

Mine in 2010!Was push up and turn. It was hard to do for sure

[DQDick]

Ours is the same. Little lugs on the upper end of the bulb. I haven't changed a tail light on a car in years, but in the old days the bulbs worked the same way. When I went to LED I held the light by the glass pushed up and turned on the bulb. Hope that helps.

[PackerFan]

We also have a 2013 and if you have the same lights as we do they pull straight out just like the bathroom ones. Just extremely hard to get your fingers in there and grab hold of them.

[Irlpguy]

My 2012 has the pull out bulbs the same as the bathroom as well. I put pieces of surgical tubing on one of my needle nosed pliers and used them to remove and put in new ones, just don't squeeze to hard. Really a stupid light fixture and I plan on changing mine as soon as I can find something I like.

[kdeiss]

The lights over our Island were Automotive 1076 install and remove like a taillight bulb twist and pull
The LED no is BA24D

[bethandkevin]

They pull straight out, very difficult to get my hand up there and grip the bulb. I have some rubber tipped bulb pliers that I use. You can use an automotive bulb #906, #912, #921 depending on how bright you would like your lamp to be.

[jcurtis934]

Trust me...what you have in the hanging pendant lights is the wedge base 921 bulb. It is not the bayonet base that others have had. Unpleasant job to pull out bulb and push in a new one...that is why I modified mine to use the bayonet socket that I got from bulbworks.com. a post was posted recently with the info. NOW to break the hearts of anyone searching for a pendant fixture that doesn't use the 921 bulbs...if it exists I didn't find one when I spent a lot of time searching. John

[Mark N.]

quote:Originally posted by jcurtis934

Trust me...what you have in the hanging pendant lights is the wedge base 921 bulb. It is not the bayonet base that others have had. Unpleasant job to pull out bulb and push in a new one...that is why I modified mine to use the bayonet socket that I got from bulbworks.com. a post was posted recently with the info. NOW to break the hearts of anyone searching for a pendant fixture that doesn't use the 921 bulbs...if it exists I didn't find one when I spent a lot of time searching. John

John, is there a link you could provide for the adapters for that bulb conversion? The bulbworks website is impossible to search without knowing what I am looking for. I tried "adapter" and drew a blank. I searched this forum with the same results. Thanks.

[Mark N.]

These fixtures are a joke to change bulbs in, unless you have the hands of a malnourished 6 year old...

[jcurtis934]

Mark, my original post is under improvements on page two. Basically, when you take down the fixtures, what you will find is the wedge socket screws onto the hollow threaded rod used in house lamps. When you unscrew this socket, you can pull it and its wires out of the pendant. Now you take a threaded rod connecter, which is 5/8 inch long (got mine at ace hardware in the lamp repair parts section and was called a lamp coupling) and is used to connect two sections of threaded rod together. The Bulbworks.com bayonet socket is their part number BW.SCB-30-2. This socket has a short threaded rod coming out the back and it comes equipped with very long wires that are longer than you need...a good thing. You feed these two wires into the threaded rod in the glass globe, where you pulled the old wires out of and then tighten the threaded rod on the back of the socket into the threaded rod coupling you just installed. Now you are ready to re-hang the light fixture. At this point you should identify which wire coming out of the ceiling is the + 12vdc wire using a meter so that if you want to install a led bayonet base bulb...the center connection in the socket will be wired to the positive wire in the ceiling. Obiviously, regular 1141 or whatever auto bulb doesn't care...but easy now to make it the way it should be. The picture of the bulbworks part, scb-30-2 (15mm sc bayonet socket) doesn't show that it has wires already...but it does. Price is $9.95 per socket if my memory is correct. The lamp coupling at ace or whatever hardware store you find it was about 0.50 cents a piece. The nice thing about this mod is that the socket is now a little lower towards the glass opening and NOT way up inside where it is very hard to get to. Easy to do when you get the parts you need. IF you can't find the lamp couplings, I can get a couple from the local ace hardware here in florida and put them in the mail to you. Just drop me an email to: jcurtis934@aol.com with the address you want them sent to. Hope this helps you with the bulbworks socket AND how to go about changing out the socket. John

[Mark N.]

Awesome help John! Thank you sooooo much!

[Sundogette]

Funny....we just finished doing the LED lightbulb conversion on the primary light fixtures we use. We have a 2012 3455SA. The pendant light fixtures over the island were on the list. The bulbs are the same as the bulk of the fixtures in the coach. However, we also discovered an installation and product defect in the process. One of the fixtures was loose and had apparently been swinging while going down the road. The wing nut would not turn either way. After cutting the wires to remove the fixture, we found one of the wires had the shield rubbed off and the exposed wires were almost broken through and through. My hero re-wired the fixture, fixed the cross threaded wing nut, added heat shrink on the wiring connections and the lights are in working order again. Love the new LED lights. Need to add about 10 more now that we have determined where we want warm versus natural light. The timing was good, some of the light fixtures were showing heat discoloration at the socket. Working the maintenance list to hit the road in May...getting warm in Arizona.

[fulltilt]

Hi Steve & Sheryl
We have a 2012 3402RL with the overhead pendants that you describe. Ours were "wedge" base bulbs #906/921 which push in or pull out without turning. I carefully use "needle nose" with a rag, keeping in mind not to squeeze too hard. Please note that we have never been happy with the light provided over our island by these bulbs and so through a great deal of "trial & error/expense", we use an LED light bulb part #921-220.Best price on Amazon.com at about $14.00 each. This a spot/flood bulb, extremely low current draw and heat, and provides exceptional 'natural light" onto the countertop. The bulbs are 3100 kelven on the colour scale, so not blue, not yellow, and they produce 220 lumens.
Hope this helps

[stengels]

Thanks all for your help. Bulbs are out and replaced the 912s with 921s for now. Will replace with the LED when they need replaced again. Can't believe the difference between the 912s (11 watts) vs the 921s (18 watts), I guess about 50% based on my math. Nice!!