Ah, yes, most of us with the 3295RK who use them in cold weather have this problem.
1. On the kitchen slide cabinets you can put insulation against the back walls. I'd recommend roll insulation with vapor barrier, then you can cover that with foam board to protect it.
2. Also on the 3295RK if you open the inside access door to the water heater you'll find two bad things. One is that there is air coming in around the front of the water heater. I caulked that better from outside but it didn't help much. Also, you'll see an opening between the back wall and the outside rear cap where wires come through. There is NO insulation between that back wall and the cap. Why on earth they do that I'll never know but I did point this out to Jeff Rank during our rally factory tour. He was surprised by that so hopefully they'll fix this. Meanwhile, that doesn't help us. I took six-inch roll insulation with vapor barrier and stuffed as much as I could back in that hole and up the sides. I realize to get it all covered I'd have to drop the belly pan and insulate it from there. I then insulated around the outside access (from inside the water heater compartment), even laid insulation around the water heater but not on the wiring. I then duct taped more insulation along the back wall, shoved more up in the opening on the upper right (into the peninsula), then went into the peninsula and taped more along the back wall and filled in on the upper opening. That stopped that airflow although it's not exactly warm right now in those cabinets (it's about 35 degrees outside right now and windy). I also taped insulation along the back wall behind the computer desk drawers and in the area where my feet go under that desk. In that area I then covered the insulation with foam board so it looks a little nicer.
Shouldn't have to do these things but we do want to stay warm.
We also do not have dual-paned windows so use 3M clear shrink coverings for the window. This year we had some trouble with the tape that comes with the window kit not sticking in all areas so where it came loose we used some of that super strong wrapping/strapping clear tape to hold it in place then hit it again with the hair dryer. I still have a couple of windows to make this 'repair'.
Along the bottom of each window is two small openings for moisture to go to the outside and, I suppose, to provide air to help with condensation (?). With the 3M window kit in place those vents still work because they're between the film and the window but no longer does cold air enter the coach through those vents. It's suprising how much cold air comes in those vents on a cold, windy day.
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