Gray Water Tank Replacement

[Pugtracker]

I want to replace my 60 gallon gray water tank. I am looking for info - Tips - advice etc on how to remove the old tank to install the new tank. I know i have to cut new holes and i want to do it once. patch will not hold so in going to replace.

Thanks

[1retired06]

Tank replacements can be tricky because locations and installation methodology vary with model and year. Unless someone with your specific year/floorplan responds I would recommend you talk to Keystone. Sorry to hear a patch did not work for you.

[Pugtracker]

quote:Originally posted by 1retired06

Tank replacements can be tricky because locations and installation methodology vary with model and year. Unless someone with your specific year/floorplan responds I would recommend you talk to Keystone. Sorry to hear a patch did not work for you.

Thanks Retired06
I have a leak at the valve as normal but the ABS repair i have done twice breaks when the tank flexs. I have looked it over when i have had the bottom looks like it can be done but calling KS may be a good piece of advice. We are fulltime and i just cant see paying 110 and hour for something i can do. Thanks for your suggestion, i will call

[Ozz]

Might try taking the drain line and installing two flex couplings. Also, the Plasti-mend kit seems to be the only way proven for those repairs.
The tank flexes if not perfectly supported, and few are, so the flex-couplings serve the remedy.
Tried and proven repairs.
Ozz

[Ozz]

quote:Originally posted by Ozz

Might try taking the drain line and installing two flex couplings. Also, the Plasti-mend kit seems to be the only way proven for those repairs.
The tank flexes if not perfectly supported, and few are, so the flex-couplings serve the remedy.
Tried and proven repairs.
Ozz

http://plasti-mend.com/

[Trailer Trash 2]

replacing your tank can be a learning expereance, but it seems you have a good start at your first try. you will need to get the product number off the tank and that number will be in yellow crayon written buy the installer, there will also be a tag that has the tank manufacture name and another part number but the crayon marked number is the most inportant one. If I were going to do a tank I would remove the old one and dry fit the new one and mark the drain and vent holes while it was in there, then drop and drill them. there has been several topics about tanks and there problems with the braking at the fittings where they conect to the tank. I have heard of a few who used a No hub conector to allow a bit of movement to prevent the tank from being so ridgid. you might get a reply on that.

Manufactures sticker.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...kIDSticker.jpg

Crayon numbers


this was my tank manufacture your should be the same you can order direct from them they will work with you.

[Pugtracker]

quote:Originally posted by Ozz

Might try taking the drain line and installing two flex couplings. Also, the Plasti-mend kit seems to be the only way proven for those repairs.
The tank flexes if not perfectly supported, and few are, so the flex-couplings serve the remedy.
Tried and proven repairs.
Ozz

Hey Ozz,
I have used the pastic mend works good till the tank get full and flexes lol. Those rubber grommets I have seen them at PPL so cut out the existng flange and pop one of those in is the end hard so it can be connected to the ABS pipe?

[Pugtracker]

quote:Originally posted by Trailer Trash 2

replacing your tank can be a learning expereance, but it seems you have a good start at your first try. you will need to get the product number off the tank and that number will be in yellow crayon written buy the installer, there will also be a tag that has the tank manufacture name and another part number but the crayon marked number is the most inportant one. If I were going to do a tank I would remove the old one and dry fit the new one and mark the drain and vent holes while it was in there, then drop and drill them. there has been several topics about tanks and there problems with the braking at the fittings where they conect to the tank. I have heard of a few who used a No hub conector to allow a bit of movement to prevent the tank from being so ridgid. you might get a reply on that.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...kIDSticker.jpg



this was my tank manufacture your should be the same you can order direct from them they will work with you.

Its a service star tank have the number have not seen any yellow yet. will dry fit for sure.

[Ozz]

quote:Originally posted by Pugtracker

Hey Ozz,
I have used the pastic mend works good till the tank get full and flexes lol. Those rubber grommets I have seen them at PPL so cut out the existng flange and pop one of those in is the end hard so it can be connected to the ABS pipe?

Well, it depends where the tank is flexing, if it is supported and say there is no drain line, if it fills and drains and raises and lowers, no foul, but if the drain is connected, the tank raises and falls, but the drain line is kept rigid....crrrack. If the drain line is made to move up and down with a coule of in-line rubber couplings with radiator-type band clamps, the line flexes with the fill and drain action. No strain, no pain...
Ozz

[Pugtracker]

quote:Originally posted by Trailer Trash 2

replacing your tank can be a learning expereance, but it seems you have a good start at your first try. you will need to get the product number off the tank and that number will be in yellow crayon written buy the installer, there will also be a tag that has the tank manufacture name and another part number but the crayon marked number is the most inportant one. If I were going to do a tank I would remove the old one and dry fit the new one and mark the drain and vent holes while it was in there, then drop and drill them. there has been several topics about tanks and there problems with the braking at the fittings where they conect to the tank. I have heard of a few who used a No hub conector to allow a bit of movement to prevent the tank from being so ridgid. you might get a reply on that.

Manufactures sticker.
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...kIDSticker.jpg

Crayon numbers


this was my tank manufacture your should be the same you can order direct from them they will work with you.

I found the 295 in yellow looks like the same signature what does 295 mean?

[Trailer Trash 2]

Quote by Pugtracker:
I found the 295 in yellow looks like the same signature what does 295 mean?
[/quote]

The number is the most inportant number, thats the tank part number that Travel Star will need it tells them which tank you have 295 has the 3 inch opening on the driver side pointing to the rear of the trailer and if you had a tank with 294 it would be just the oppisite opening on the driver side with the opening forward.
Yes another thing that will be a replacement tank and I dont think it was 60 gal its more like 45 I think.

[Pugtracker]

quote:Originally posted by Trailer Trash 2

Quote by Pugtracker:
I found the 295 in yellow looks like the same signature what does 295 mean?

The number is the most inportant number, thats the tank part number that Travel Star will need it tells them which tank you have 295 has the 3 inch opening on the driver side pointing to the rear of the trailer and if you had a tank with 294 it would be just the oppisite opening on the driver side with the opening forward.
Yes another thing that will be a replacement tank and I dont think it was 60 gal its more like 45 I think.
[/quote]

Thanks trailer trash yes it is a 45 appreciate the info. I plan to find out all i can before i cut the old tank out. I guess thats the issue with some on where to cut the pipes and vent.

[CmdrDewey]

I just fixed a leak near the drain at the bottom of my gray tank as follows: I drained the tank completely, drilled a 3/16 hole at the end of the crack. When that was dry I put a very short screw in the hole. Then I sprayed three coats of a product called FlexSeal. It is one of those "as seen on TV" things. I bought it at Bed, Bath and Beyond for about $12. Then I used some eternabond tape which I bought from Best Materials (sales@bestmaterials.com) This was the kind with a foil backing which the literature says is for this application. Put a strip on each side of the crack and then another on top, down the middle. Finally I sprayed three more coats of the FlexSeal.

I stressed it out by filling it almost full for three days before putting the belly skin back. It has now been a month with no issues. Probably cost me less than $25 total. I have more than 1/2 of the FlexSeal left

[Pugtracker]

quote:Originally posted by CmdrDewey

I just fixed a leak near the drain at the bottom of my gray tank as follows: I drained the tank completely, drilled a 3/16 hole at the end of the crack. When that was dry I put a very short screw in the hole. Then I sprayed three coats of a product called FlexSeal. It is one of those "as seen on TV" things. I bought it at Bed, Bath and Beyond for about $12. Then I used some eternabond tape which I bought from Best Materials (sales@bestmaterials.com) This was the kind with a foil backing which the literature says is for this application. Put a strip on each side of the crack and then another on top, down the middle. Finally I sprayed three more coats of the FlexSeal.

I stressed it out by filling it almost full for three days before putting the belly skin back. It has now been a month with no issues. Probably cost me less than $25 total. I have more than 1/2 of the FlexSeal left

Thats I saw a can of that stuff and thought I should buy a can. i hope your repair holds. The other problem with a repair like your and mine is if you dont open the drain valve before it get over full and starts coming in the shower drain. this is when presure really gets on a repair. I speak from experience. You will hear a load POP!!! What was that I ask my wife LOL Amyway good luck

[Pugtracker]

Repair has broken again, just wanted to ask when you say to install two flex couplings are you talking about the main drain from both tanks that is exposed underneath, there does not appear to be enough room between the two tanks that face each other thats under the protective cover. Also have you seen any pics or blogs on tank removal to give a head start on what to expect if i change the tank. It never ends lol

quote:Originally posted by Ozz

Might try taking the drain line and installing two flex couplings. Also, the Plasti-mend kit seems to be the only way proven for those repairs.
The tank flexes if not perfectly supported, and few are, so the flex-couplings serve the remedy.
Tried and proven repairs.
Ozz

[steelpony5555]

Sad thing is, on my last SOB my tanks were filled past full several times where it came up into the kitchen sink and also the shower. No I never filled the black tank past full lol lol....But just forgetting the drain was closed or just miscalculating they have been over full. But ONLY one time misjudging the kitchen tank on the Montana and pop goes the weasel. Tech said it had a long split in it. Just a sad state of affairs.....Don't Keystone run their rigs thru some sort of rigorous testing before marketing them??? Would have been a simple thing of "let's fill all the tanks and run it over a test track". Then it woulda been "oooops we gotta fix that", back to the drawing board. But I guess they figured nobody's gonna over fill their tanks..lol lol

[Illini Trekker]

David if you want to try the mend kit again try using metal screen wire. My first attempt don't hold then used metal screen like the kind for a door and it has worked now for two years. Good luck!