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Old 11-20-2017, 07:26 PM   #1
MaxwellD
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M.O.C. #20704
Norcold Refrigerator power

I left for 10 days and when I returned to the RV, I discovered that the power pop-up tower is not getting any juice. On top of that, I didnt’ recognize that the refrigerator was apparently running on propane. When propane ran out, I got the alarms of No Flame and No AC. I checked the surge protector - there were no stored error codes (maybe they go away after a time). Anyone know where to look at the power cord plug in for the refrigerator? From the outside? If so, how do you get the refrigerator vent cover off? Maybe a connection issue there - but I don’t know where to look.
I’d appreciate someone’s insight here!
Thanks,
Max
 
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Old 11-20-2017, 08:00 PM   #2
rohrmann
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On the outside, you will see a vent cover, like below and near the top of the vent cover will be a couple of square black fasteners with a slot on their heads. You can take a flat screwdriver or anything flat like that to turn the fastener a quarter turn, and then you remove the cover. Normally inside to your left, there will be a plug on the cord to the fridge plugged into an outlet. That is the source of 120 volt AC power. Sounds like you have a bigger problem than just the fridge.
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Old 11-21-2017, 08:19 AM   #3
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Check your breakers and GFI's first. If that's not it there is sometimes a juction box under the slide that could have loose wires.
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Old 11-21-2017, 06:01 PM   #4
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Norcold Refrigerator power follow-up-BEWARE!

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ID:	843I am getting to be good friends with the repairman in this brand new 2018 3730 FL. Not a good sign. If you read the previous thread - please read this and BEWARE! The loss of AC power to the refrigerator was due to these connectors found underneath the stove area. By the looks of things, they were just a few milli-amps away from ignition and a fire. So glad my repairman found this however I wonder how many more of these Chinese finger-lock connectors are still left - and what will happen when or if they should fry! Check around your rig and inspect these things - replacement is recommended.
Everything back to normal now - for now. Let’s keep our fingers crossed. Manufacturer is being brought up to speed on this debacle - so far, they have been very supportive. Anyone have similar experience with these?
Max
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Old 11-21-2017, 10:15 PM   #5
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Instead of installing a splice box to make the connections between the Romex and the extension cord cable being held in the photo, they use these quick connectors, and I have seen quite a few posts in the past where these have failed. Yes, this would be another thing to inspect on these rigs, along with checking all the connections in the panel, 12 volt and 120 volt, and all the fasteners on the suspension, and numerous other things.
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Old 11-22-2017, 07:42 AM   #6
jeff_banning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxwellD View Post
Attachment 843I am getting to be good friends with the repairman in this brand new 2018 3730 FL. Not a good sign. If you read the previous thread - please read this and BEWARE! The loss of AC power to the refrigerator was due to these connectors found underneath the stove area. By the looks of things, they were just a few milli-amps away from ignition and a fire. So glad my repairman found this however I wonder how many more of these Chinese finger-lock connectors are still left - and what will happen when or if they should fry! Check around your rig and inspect these things - replacement is recommended.
Everything back to normal now - for now. Let’s keep our fingers crossed. Manufacturer is being brought up to speed on this debacle - so far, they have been very supportive. Anyone have similar experience with these?
Max
Were these connectors the other side of the standard A/C receptacle the refrigerator plugs into or was this your fridge's connection to A/C?
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Old 11-22-2017, 01:30 PM   #7
MaxwellD
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Originally Posted by jeff_banning View Post
Were these connectors the other side of the standard A/C receptacle the refrigerator plugs into or was this your fridge's connection to A/C?
This was not the fridge connection to A/C power receptacle. It was the other side of that under the stove area. My other question is why the circuit breaker did not trip? Any ideas?
Sleeping with one eye open,
Max
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Old 11-23-2017, 12:35 AM   #8
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Even though a lot of heat was present, the fault current did not exist. The plastic melted, probably due to a poor connection, but the hot leg and the ground or neutral never came in contact with each other. If there was truly a short between legs, then the breaker would have tripped. Because there wasn't a short condition, the breaker stayed closed, which could have caused a lot more damage, but you got lucky.
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Old 11-23-2017, 05:36 AM   #9
MaxwellD
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Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
Even though a lot of heat was present, the fault current did not exist. The plastic melted, probably due to a poor connection, but the hot leg and the ground or neutral never came in contact with each other. If there was truly a short between legs, then the breaker would have tripped. Because there wasn't a short condition, the breaker stayed closed, which could have caused a lot more damage, but you got lucky.
Lucky indeed! Thank you for your insight here. I am intimidated by electrical issues -ever since I almost was electrocuted years ago. I was lucky then too.
Thanks again.
Max
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