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Old 09-09-2012, 02:00 PM   #21
Pugtracker
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quote:Originally posted by Tom S.

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Thinking about switching also,, so how long between oil changes using synthetic. Thanks
I don't drive that many miles any more - less than 10,000 a year, so I change mine once a year. Amsoil claims service up to 20,000+ miles for their oil, which BTW, is made from Mobil stock. If I was going to go that far, I would consider having it tested and verified.
thanks Tom think ill chnage and use your advice on filter chnages looking for sludge
 
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:14 PM   #22
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Tom excellent post. I had some friends (pre-synthetic) who rebuilt an engine, and for some unknown reason didn't clean out the pan. Filled it up with a good grade detergent oil, fired it up and it ran for a short period of time before it seized when all that sludge plugged the oil passages (I didn't say they were smart friends).
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:22 PM   #23
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I read an article in TDR about some testing that they had done on several oils (blind test) and with the additives that are put in and what the oil manfuctures must do to get the API ratings needed in todays oils, there isn't much difference between any of the oils regardless of brand name or price. This doesn't include synthetic oil of course and they were not tested in this test. In my 5.9 Dodge I ran Amsoil and was at 25000 miles when I traded truck and oil sample was still coming back good. Can't do that in 6.7, so I'm back to petroleum based.
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:32 PM   #24
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Thanks Tom for the post on how to remove the sludge! My dad is a former airplane mechanic and diesel mechanic (long time ago)and he was concerned about how to remove the sludge. He has seen diesels that switched to detergent oil all of a sudden have all kinds of leaks and start burning oil because the sludge was 'blocking' all of the leaks. So your plan for removing the sludge is a great idea! A little spendy but well worth the expense. I do not believe, it has been a long time since we have done the filter change ourselves, that the filter change is that difficult so it would be a good move.

Thanks to everyone for your input! I am learning a lot.

So I have another question...so if we switch to synthetic would that (probably) resolve our issue with the oil temp rising when climbing 'hills'. I am not a mechanic but grew up with them so I do get some of the terminology but I am definitely a layman.

Thanks again!
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:43 PM   #25
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I doubt you would see much change in temperatures during normal operations. If the temps are getting above 230/240, you could add an oil cooler. There is a down side to oil coolers though. Engines are designed to run at optimal temps, and adding an engine oil cooler can cause the engine to take longer to reach those temperature, especially in really cold climates. I'm not familiar with Fords, but you may already have a engine oil cooler on your truck. If so, check it to make sure it's clean so air can get through it, and also make sure nothing is blocking it, like added accessories such as lights or push bars.
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:48 PM   #26
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Thanks Tom, again, for the great information! I will put checking the area around the oil cooler on the to do list before our trip to Bozeman Mt in a couple of weeks. My husband didn't seem too worried (we crept up to about 235 but didn't enter the yellow) but I was stressing. I would rather it not go that high and that we could just enjoy the scenery rather than watching it. Especially if we go somewhere hot and have to do a hill climb like the mojave. At least I will know that the oil isn't loosing it's viscosity!
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:55 PM   #27
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If that's the highest it got and didn't stay there except when climbing a steep grade, I wouldn't worry.
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:06 PM   #28
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Thanks Tom! That makes me feel much better! It was late and my husband was really tired and I was thinking that maybe he was pushing it a little hard just because he was so tired. I am glad to hear he hasn't lost his marbles...at least not yet! However, I am NOT going to admit to him that you thought it was okay! That would just change the whole dynamic of our relationship! Teehee!
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:50 AM   #29
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Thanks RonD for your input! That is one thing we were worried about. We have gone back and forth on that issue. We have some friends who have the same truck with the almost the same mileage and they switched...we all kept our fingers crossed...and it went fine. So I think my husband has decided to switch but please keep your fingers crossed! The 'truck guru' that my dad uses (he is a Ford specialist) says it will be fine as long so I hope he is right! We are switching over to Rotella T6 on Wednesday. We live in Billings Montana where it can get to be -30 below, not often but it can, and is regularly in the single digits. So I guess we would qualify for really cold...I guess that is a bit subjective!

Thanks again for everyone's input. We really appreciate your honesty!
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:42 AM   #30
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I've always used Castrol Syntex in my vehicles. Why not ... it's marginally more expensive than regular brand-name oil ... when it's bought from Costco!
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:18 AM   #31
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Go synthetic! It is advised that if you go synthetic do not go back to conventional oil. Over the past 20 years I only run synthetic in all my vehicles except the Volvo Truck & Jeep. Synthetic is not recommend for equipment that sits for extended periods of time. Both of those can sit with out running for 60 to 90 days at a time with out running in the off season.

With synthetic I only change the oil once a year. I do change filters at the recommended oil change interval or 6 months, which ever comes first. My wife's car runs about 12k miles a year. Mine runs around 16k miles a year.

The only motor I have tore down that has been running synthetic was my wife's previous car. A 1998 Volvo S70. It came from the factory with Mobil 1 and that is all we ever ran in it. At 103k miles, the tensioner on the timing belt gave way. As a result 14 valves were bent. When we pulled the head off the motor it was so clean it looked like it just came back from the machine shop. The turbo had to be removed in order to remove the head. I figured based on mileage and the Texas heat it would be a good idea to rebuild the turbo at that time. I had already sent it to the shop prior to getting the head off. They called asking why I sent it in for rebuilt. They said it looked brand new inside. We drove the car another 50k miles before the wife decided she wanted a new car after 12 years. Other than a few sensors that is the only mechanical problem we ever had.

On my 01 F250, I put synthetic in at the first oil change. Drove that truck 11 years and sold it with 198k miles. The only oil related issue I ever had with it was the high pressure oil pump that drives the injectors. The high pressure pump was changed at about 175k miles. The only down side to synthetic is it will find a leak that conventional oil will not. I would start leaking oil around the high pressure pump every 40k~50k miles. The guy I sold my F250 to uses it for his delivery service. I will get a email or call from him from time to time to ask a question but he has not had any issues with the truck.
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Old 09-16-2012, 03:41 PM   #32
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Thanks to everyone, once again, for all of the great info! Thanks RickW for giving a me some specifics on how it has worked for you. We switched the truck over to Rotella T6 last week and so far no oil leaks...which was one thing we were worried about finding after we changed. I am glad to hear that the engines looked new despite the mileage. That give me peace of mind. I am not mechanically savvy enough to know about a high pressure oil pump in our truck but I will mention it to my husband so if it applies to us he will watch for it.

Thanks again to everyone! I will keep you posted!
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Old 09-17-2012, 01:18 AM   #33
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Our 2011 6.7L F350 diesel manual calls for 5W40 when towing. Since you can't buy dino oil in 5W40 I had to go with synthetic. First time around bought Rotella from Wallmart at $18 a gallon and did the change myself. Second time around I stopped at a Ford dealer in Elkhart IN for a drive through change. They use Valvoline 5W40 and it cost $160 for the oil change. I bristled a bit but went and had them do it anyway. The good news is the synthetics won't even begin to break down until 7 to 8 K miles unlike dino oil.
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