batteries for 5th wheel

[Nell]

We have a 2005 Montana 5W...our problem is with the batteries...
When the shore power is plugged in, the batteries burn out..we have replaced 3 sets of batteries..what is best type of replacement batteries with which to replace the old ones? Deep-Cell or High end automotive?

[bncinwv]

Based on your description of batteries burning out, I would highly recommend that you investigate the battery charger in your unit and see if it is a three stage charger. If it is, it sounds like it needs to be checked as it may be "over-charging" the batteries and if it is not, it definitely needs to be replaced by a three stage charger. The battery type is largely dependent upon your use, a high-end automotive battery is fine if you do not use dc power much (shore power hookups mainly), if however you do use dc power (boondocking), then a Deep Cell battery would probably serve you better. If you are boondocking a lot, a couple of 6-volt golf cart type batteries would be beneficial.
Bingo

[DQDick]

X2 on what Bingo says. In addition, make sure you check the water level in the batteries periodically and add distilled water if necessary.

[Art-n-Marge]

For a trailer only Deep Cycle batteries should be used so you don't have to worry about if your trailer has to charge/recharge all the time and I've read automotive batteries don't do so well under these conditions.

(Edited to correct connection of 6v batteries)
Two 6v batteries in SERIES (not parallel) will get the 12v needed and they drain slower, charge faster and typically last longer than their 12v counterparts, but are larger and heavier. To improve capacity, some will install two sets of 6v batteries to get the electrical equivalent of two 12v batteries. Using 6v batteries in this manner will provide very good power capacity since they have better statistics than the 12v equivalent.

If you have a 2005 and it's been about 7 years old then it sure does seem like your batteries are not lasting long enough and improper charging is a common culprit. Like what's already mentioned, you should check to see if the converter or whatever means you use for recharging has a smart charger component to it. The other thing to check is the water level. I use a Battery Minder (not using the converter) and I must still check the battery water level and must add distilled water to top the cells off. I think maintenance free batteries don't need added water, but they still must be charged correctly.

I still have one original 12v battery on my 2006 Montana since the other one died a year ago (after 5 years). When this one goes I am converting to 6v.

[Carl n Susan]

The 2005 Montana (not Mountaineer) has an IOTA DLS55 converter which acts as the battery charger. It is *NOT* a smart charger. Google "IOTA IQ4" to learn more about the inexpensive upgrade available to make your converter a smart charger. Your batteries will last a lot longer.

Best $30 you will spend!

[Art-n-Marge]

Another few other things....

First, you don't mention your TV. There have been many that have reported that some GM or Chevy trucks do not have the fuse installed in the factory to support the charge line of the truck for trailer usage. Maybe all this time you have not been charging the batteries like you thought. Relying on only the converter to recharge the batteries and the converter does not have a smart charger (my '06 IOTA doesn't have one), can shorten the life of the battery when it's overcharged and the cells go dry because of it.

Another thing is if you have more than one 12v battery installed, the + and - of the same battery must NOT go to the trailer! The proper manner is the + on the first battery goes to the trailer and the - of the other battery must then go to the trailer. This forces both batteries to provide supply voltage equally to the trailer.

A third thing is debugging batteries. If you don't disconnect things and take measurements a bad battery will impact the readings. For example, I had a bad battery and the converter and other battery readings were constantly 12.2 (too low). When I finally figured out to disconnect things I found the bad battery was at 10v (pretty much dead) and the other battery was at 12.8v (proper reading), then when I reconnected the battery to the trailer (and converter) while on shore power, the battery read about 13.9v (means the battery is being recharged).

I'm just trying to add things I've read or learned over the years that can affect how a battery can prematurely fail. Oftentimes it's not the batteries that just goes bad, it's something else that makes the batteries fail prematurely.

[CBTraveler]

X2 on the comments from Carl n Susan. The standard IOTA converter usually puts out about 13.2 volts continuously. That voltage will allow the battery to stay connected to the converter for long periods without damage to the battery. A higher charge voltage is necessary to properly charge the batteries. The IOTA adapter provides the necessary higher charge voltage and when the battery is fully charged it switches back to the 13.2 volt setting.

If you use batteries that require adding water, they should be installed in containers that have a vent hose exiting from the battery bay. Recharging non-sealed batteries creates hydrogen gas. There are hose kits that make adding water easier. There are also special caps ( brand Hydrocaps) that convert the hydrogen back to water. They are pretty expensive and at some point the catalytic material depletes and you need to buy new ones.

There are sealed golf cart batteries that do not require adding water, but the cost is higher.

[bighornram]

I went with the Lifeline 6 volt 300 amp AGM's (2) and couldn't be happier with them. I have used 6 volt and 12 volt batteries and have found the 6 volt units are far superior and worth the trouble of rewiring. The AGM's are trouble free, no worry about checking water levels.

[kdeiss]

Simple answer to a simple Quetion My unit is 10 years old purchased my third deep cycle battery last year.

Your charger is not working or you have a defective battery get a VOM meter and lern how to use it it is simple.

We do not boon dock so a 12v Deep cycle is all you need!

[richard66]

Ditto on the AGM batteries. They cost a little more but are far superior ( they don't gas, need water and discharge at a slower rate )to regular lead acid types. Get your charging problem fixed and spring for the AGM batteries. You will not regret it.

[ols1932]

We have found that the Lifeline AGM batteries seem to be far superior to anything else on the market. But they are costly. We purchased two Lifeline D8 12 volt AGM batteries in 2003 and they are still going strong. At that time they cost about $350 each -- expensive but we believe worth it. For the traveler who only uses their rig occasionally, I don't recommend these batteries, but for a full timer, show me a better one.

Orv

[CORattler]

+1

quote:Originally posted by bncinwv

Based on your description of batteries burning out, I would highly recommend that you investigate the battery charger in your unit and see if it is a three stage charger. If it is, it sounds like it needs to be checked as it may be "over-charging" the batteries and if it is not, it definitely needs to be replaced by a three stage charger. The battery type is largely dependent upon your use, a high-end automotive battery is fine if you do not use dc power much (shore power hookups mainly), if however you do use dc power (boondocking), then a Deep Cell battery would probably serve you better. If you are boondocking a lot, a couple of 6-volt golf cart type batteries would be beneficial.
Bingo