front jack switch

[BillyRay]

well, went to leave the campground yesterday...and the front jacks wouldn't lower. thought I blew a fuse, but the had power. they would extend but not retract.had to lower the unit by hand! what a pain in the butt!! well atleast it was only lowering as it's harder to raise.

called the dealer they said it was probably a bad cellanoid (spelling?) it anoid me anyway LOL ...

well dropping it off at the dealer next week anyway for service so it's their problem now. I bet the'll fix it first instead of lowering it by hand, what do you think!?

[Chuck and Carol]

Does that take hydrolic (sp??) fluid? Ours is leaking fluid in that area. Was way way low before trip home. Good thing Chuck noticed it.

Carol

[BillyRay]

I don't know to tell the truth, but they do work to extend...which wouldn't work if it was low on fluid.

[NJ Hillbilly]

They are electric. I would bank on the solenoid also. If it works in 1 direction then there is no problem. The solenoid is either not powering the motor (no noise) or not switching the valve( from off to raise, but off to lower works).

John

[ragdoll]

Ours turned out to be the switch - this happened right at the dealers, needless to say they fixed it pronto. A royal pain in the neck without it working properly no matter what the problem. good luck on the fix.

Safe travels.
Lorraine

[Dennis and Carol]

For what it is worth, I had a similar problem this spring. Would try to go then stop. Finally would not even try to start. I think my problem was with the switch but the following is what I discovered about the operation of the landing gear. It is powered by an electric motor that runs in both directions. It has two power leads and depending upon which is hot determines the direction it runs. Power is supplied to the switch with a single hot wire with an in-line 30 amp. fuse. The fuse is inside the front compartment on the large red wire going toward the switch and is inside a plastic covering. I thought it was a fuseable link but the fuse can be replaced. I made several mistakes in trying to fix the problem. The biggest was trying to remember how the switch was wired. Thought I had it down, but in the end took me 7 fuses to get it right. The switch supplies power to one lead or the other when pressed. Once I figured out what was doing what and how, it was fairly simple. I think it would be a good idea to have spare 30 amp. fuses. Saying that, I don't remember if I ever picked any up. I used the last I had when I finally got it to work.

[BillyRay]

I did have one previous problem where I blew a fuse, but when I did nothing worked. thats why I don't believe it's that. well dropped it off today. I have no doubt it will be fixed first thing because when they try to move it from the lot into the shop they will have to manually do it. we'll see how they like the hand crank!

[Treecounter]

Last year when we were braking hunting camp in the snow, the jacks wouldn't work. Did the hand thing and got home. Checking things out it looked like the factory cut the hole where the switch was mounted too small. so they cut the plastic sleeve that covered the switch to make it smaller and tapped it up. Of coarse it fell out and unplugged the wires. Made a nice project looking for the problem though. Treecounter

[BillyRay]

that sucks in the snow having to deal with problems outside in the cold!

[w4nfr]

quote:Originally posted by Chuck and Carol

Does that take hydrolic (sp??) fluid? Ours is leaking fluid in that area. Was way way low before trip home. Good thing Chuck noticed it.

Carol

Hydraulic Fluid Leak: I experienced hydraulic fluid leaking in the front compartment and lost about a quart in 2400 miles. It turned out to be the Optional IRC valve mounted to the pump/resevoir. Some of the valves had bad O rings and valve threads that were not right, this allowed fluid to drop out. Lippert Components sent a new replacement valve assembly, I changed it out and has worked fine since. No more leaks!