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Old 04-02-2007, 04:03 AM   #1
bulbrich
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JT's Strong Arm stabilizers

Has anyone installed these on your Montana 5th wheel, and do they help reduce movement, or am I wasting $400??

I have a 2007 3400 RL.

 
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Old 04-02-2007, 04:36 AM   #2
MikeM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by bulbrich

Has anyone installed these on your Montana 5th wheel, and do they help reduce movement, or am I wasting $400??

I have a 2007 3400 RL.

I installed them on my 3475 and they dramatically reduce movement - highly recommended addition.
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:15 AM   #3
jpbcny
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A question to those that have installed these on their Montana or Mountaineer 5ers:

Does the kit include stabilizers for the front jacks, and rear scissor jacks, or do they have to be purchased seperately?

If they are sold seperately, are the rear stabilizer kits worth the extra money?

JP
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:39 AM   #4
Mudchief
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Mine came for both the front and back and was the best $400.00 I spent. No more movement.
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Old 04-02-2007, 03:09 PM   #5
nailbender
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I also highly recommend them and mine come with the front and rear. You will not be disappointed with them.
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Old 04-02-2007, 03:46 PM   #6
bigmurf
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Take a look a PLUGITRIGHT.COM They have a set that cost a lot less and have done a good job for us.
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Old 04-02-2007, 07:54 PM   #7
ronnilu
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Also take a look at SteadyFast.com, and see the thread titled stabilizers further down in this section
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:22 PM   #8
DONnANNIE
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I have to agree with the others. I installed JT Stabilizers on my 3650RK and they really do make a difference. The Monte is much more stable.

If you install them yourself I have a word of caution for you. Don't just ask for the 5th wheel stabilizers. You have to ask for the correct rear stabilizer too - telescoping or scissor style on your Monte. When I got mine, no one asked and I didn't know the difference. The difference is that you need a 3 3/4" swing bolt for connecting to the telescoping rear stabilizer and you need a 3" swing bolt for connecting to the scissor rear stabilizer.

When I called JTs, they treated me outstandingly. After they explained the above difference to me, they called the local dealer where I bought my kit and explained the problem to them. The local dealer picked up the tab for $8 each x 2 + shipping for the two bolts I needed. The tech also explained how to add the cross-member for the JT rear stabilizers to connect to.(3"x2"x1/4"x71")

Also, they have some self taping bolts. They would probably work okay, but I preferred a bolt with Nyloc nut.(had to buy extra at Home Depot) That way I know it won't come off. Your choice.

I guess there are less expensive stabilizers out there, but these are pretty stout, well made and worth the money.(IMHO)

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Old 04-03-2007, 03:24 AM   #9
DHenry
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I installed the JT's on my 3670 and they do work well. I believe that they take about 90+% of the movement out of the Montana. They do come with both front and back but like DONnANNE says, do specify the type of rear stabilizer you have.
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Old 04-03-2007, 04:07 AM   #10
ols1932
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I intended to have the JTs installed this summer but I discovered I can't without removing my two sewer hose storage PVC pipes I have under the front. We've tried to figure out where there would be a good place to move the pipes to but, alas, there doesn't seem to be a convenient place.

Orv
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Old 04-03-2007, 06:04 AM   #11
5rvers
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So in order to installed them, do you need to cut the underbelly so they can be installed at the frame?
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Old 04-03-2007, 07:29 AM   #12
ols1932
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There is no need to cut the underbelly. They are mounted directly to the frame with self-tapping screws, I believe. A close friend of mine had them installed on his 3400 and they didn't cut into the underbelly for him.

I should mention that he didn't have the extra sewer hose storage pipes like we have.

Orv
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Old 04-03-2007, 01:17 PM   #13
dieselguy
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Orv: I just moved my 6" tube that I carry my outdoor carpet in back 35" from the back of the jack legs to the center of my tube. Clears the JT's and looks like it was made there. You can get your arm in the hole beneath the LP tanks to secure the bolts into the frame unless yours has self tapping screws. If your tube is 4" and tucked close to the jack legs ... I don't think you'll have any clearance issues. All JT brackets behind your front jacks are mounted 30" from the back side of the electric jacks if you want to do some measuring.
An added note: I did remove just enough black plastic underbelly where each of the JT mounting brackets bolted to the frame for added stability ... easy to cut and if measured right leaves no unsightly air gaps.
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Old 04-03-2007, 01:57 PM   #14
DHenry
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Orv, I have 2-6" tubes mounted behind my landing gear with the JT's installed I have 9" clearance under the landing legs. I have not had a problem yet and we have taken a couple long trips since I installed them.
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Old 04-16-2007, 05:05 AM   #15
Bob & Lee
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OK the tax money is in the bank. Lee wants to stop the shacking from the washer spinning, she wants the strong arm, other than price from what I read there is little difference in the performance of the PLUGITRIGHT and the Strong arm is it worth the extra money? do I still need Roto Choks or will regular choks work just as good?

Bob
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Old 04-16-2007, 05:07 AM   #16
ols1932
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Regular chocks will work. However, I would use the Roto-Choks because they give you a positive lock on the wheels so you KNOW the rig won't roll off the hitch when you are unhooking.

Orv
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Old 04-16-2007, 06:34 AM   #17
bsmeaton
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Waiting for my JT's too arrive - but I know I'll have a clearance problem with the generator exhaust pipe that is routed out the curb side. Still thinking..............
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Old 04-16-2007, 07:59 AM   #18
campbud
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We have the JT's and they are well worth the money as everyone says...very minimal movement. We are 100% satisfied with them.
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Old 04-16-2007, 11:52 AM   #19
sreigle
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Bob, I don't know what the price difference is, if any, but several of us use the BAL between-wheel chocks. From what I've seen they are just as effective and easier to use. Not everybody would agree, I suppose. Just my opinion. Both do the job.

Dieselguy, what did you use to cut the bellypan?
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Old 04-16-2007, 04:54 PM   #20
dieselguy
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Steve: Since I didn't use the square tube spacers supplied by JT, all I needed was a round hole for the lengthwise frame mounts. I used one of those step drills like one uses to drill holes in PVC and a keyhole saw as needed ... worked like a charm. There is no belly pan on the very front underneath the front storage compartment, so no issue there with the slightly different mounts.
PS: By the way, the mounting hardware is made up of reinforcing plates, quality bolts, and nyloc nuts to secure them to your fiver ... no self tapping screws in the kits provided.
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