Fresh Water Flood !

[richfaa]

Here is another one for you Steve...Does not require bending your body where it does not bend. The struts that hold the bed up. There are 3 screws in the bottom strut.2 of them the top rear and the top center are firmly attached to something..The bottom front was firmly attached to nothing.it just spun loose. Don't think it is any kind of a problem but why have a screw if it screws into nothing?? Also check that both your wheels are firmly attached..one of ours was just laying on the carpet inside the bed frame..that IS a problem..check the tightness of everything under there 1/2 of everything was some what loose. We had a skilled craftsman up front that over torqued half of our hinge screws and one in the rear that under torqued half of them...guess it even's out.. Tomorrow is check all the rails on the drawers for proper alignment and tightness of screws... My to do list is getting short..

Rich& Helen N.Ridgeville,Ohio.

F-350SD, Lariat, V-10,4:30 Diff, tow command Long bed, Crew Cab Dually, 06 3400RL
Mor-Ryde Pin Box

[sreigle]

My wheels are firmly attached although they do seem to complain too frequently. Oh, you meant on the bed. I checked and they are tight. I didn't check the strut screws nor the hinge screws. Another thing for my list. Thanks.

See another Montana or Mountaineer on the road? Flash lights twice, it might be one of us!
Steve Reigle (pronounced Regal)
Fulltiming since 3/21/03
'07 3400RL
'05 Ford F250 SD Lariat CC SB 6.0L PSD/TS FX4 4x4

Our RV Travels (now Firefox-compatible)

[LonnieB]

Thanks guys, I just crawled out of mine with a much happier outlook. First I found several loose compression fittings, some as much as 3 turns. Next I checked the clamp fittings and found them to be tight. Tight doesn't count though unless it's on the hose,LOL. One of the clamps was cockeyed ( I wonder who came up with that word anyway?) with half being on the hose and half being above the end of the hose on the fitting. On the 3000, the pump, heater, and converter are on the other side of the basement. I removed that panel and found something like Rich was talking about, aluminum duct tape stuck magically to thin air. There is also a rats nest of hoses, ducting, and wiring in here. I moved water lines around, and tightened them up, but the pump is still as loud as before. I'll try some insulation on hoses, and and see if that helps.

[Cat320]

In our many RVs, never had a problem with enough water pressure to blow and end off a fitting. I assume everybody uses a good water pressure regulator between the faucet and rig.

[richfaa]

Don't think it is a matter of high water pressure but rather loose connections. I also have never had a water connector blow due to high water pressure

[bigmurf]

Had a water line blow off two Motorhomes ago since that time (2 MH and 2 fivers) we DO NOT connect to city water. Installed new (better) pump and turn the switch off when we leave the rig. We fulltime and turning off the pump is second nature now.

If you use most of the hot water and the water heater refills with Cold water then what happens when the water expands? Where does the pressure go to?

[HamRad]

Bigmurf,

In regards to the hot water expansion....... There is a small air gap that develops in the HW tank. It normally develops on its own and we don't need to worry about it.

We've had a couple of "water" issues. First one was completely our fault. We turned on the water in the shower / bath and went to dinner! Came back and water was flowing from our rig! The second issue was in the kitchen. When we arrive at our destination and set up we noticed the area around the sink was wet. Turns out the "P" trap had worked loose and water had come out of that. Thankfully that involved only a little bit of water.

We leave the city water hooked up and on all the time. In addition we leave our water pump on when we travel.

HamRad

[dsprik]

We had an issue where our water pump would not turn off when it was supposed to pressure up when we turned a faucet off. Ran continously - and loud. Very disconcerting - had to keep manually turning it off and on at the switch. Water flow had air in it and had about 2/3 flow rate compared to what it normally pumped out.

Our dealership fixed it just prior to the Rally in Goshen. Said there was a valve stuck. Worked great. Then, on our way to NC after the rally, we stayed at a Walmart overnight in KY and the pump started this loud, constant running again.

We are having temporary water supply problems, so we need this pump. Yesterday I finally broke down to pull the shield off the pump/furnace area. Spent about 30 minutes (first time for me). Went to turn pump on and VOILA! It worked perfectly - shut off, ran quietly. What's up with that??? I didn't hardly touch any lines before it decided to "fix itself". It bothers me that I have no idea what went wrong and how to fix it if it happens again.

Any ideas???

[HamRad]

Hi Dave,
First time this thing happened to me I thought for sure the pump had broken! Turns out all I have to do is let the water run a little bit. After I get a good supply running out one of the faucets the pump starts working like it is supposed to. I was so relieved when I discovered this. I did eventually change out the pump for a quieter running one but the same thing happens to this one too. Just let it run for awhile with a faucet open. You should hear it change tones when it hits full stride. I hope that is all that is wrong with yours.

Good luck.

Dennis

[dsprik]

Thanks, Dennis. I did let it run awhile. I and my wife both took showers. It changed pitch up and down, then up again. It never resolved itself - low pressure and it never shut off. I let it run for sometime - to the point where I thought I was in danger of burning up the pump. We have the new pump that Montana has been putting in their units since May 16.