No Water from Hot side of the faucet...

[jpf]

Couldn't find a similar topic in search.

After washing dishes with hot water early this AM, went back an hour or so later to run some hot water and got just a dribble out of the hot side. I also noticed when cycling LP switch, the small LED doesn't come on now.( I suppose it could be that the Thermostat is reading hot enough)
Put the HWH on electric and can hear the hiss of the element so that seems to be heating for now.
Called Suburben and they said the LED could be a bad computer module but that wouldn't explain the sudden loss of water from the hot side.

I've checked fuse panel, breakers, reset the reset switches outside.

Tried turning the small valve in the water tank enclosure area under the kitchen counter to the opposite detente (This action allows water out the hot water side but is cold water, I think this has something to do with winterizing the system), cold water flows with good pressure out the hot side in both kitchen and bathroom sink.

Seems like the problem is getting hot water out of the water tank.

Anybody run into this and have a fix or suggestion on what to check next ??

[Thunderman]

JPF,
I understand there is a check valve in the supply line from the hot water heater that fails. I think you have to locate it from the outside. I have never experienced the problem but it has appeared numerous times in the past. Suggest you do a search here or at RV.NET.

Good luck!

[Mrs. CountryGuy]

Jerry and Karen

Agree with Weldon, try to find the check valve.

Ours was an "inside" job, in other words, Al was able to change out from inside Tana, with a few scraps on the arms, but of course.

When the valve went in our unit, I was sitting at the desk, very near the hot water heater and I heard it pop, loud enough to get my attention. The hot water stopped flowing RIGHT away!

Good luck, let us know what you find out.

[Karl]

YUP!

I agree that it is most likely that check valve. I have had these go bad in two of my previous campers. You can get the valve at most dealers, and it is "easy" to replace (if it is easy to get at the piping to the H20 heater). That check valve does slightly reduce the water pressure because it is pressure that opens the valve, so in our last camper, I replaced it with a shut of valve instead since we did quite a bit of "dry camping". That meant that when I winterized, I would have to close the valve, but when using the pump, it gave me a little higher hot water pressure, which helped when showering.

[jpf]

Thanks to all, especially Carol and Al (Mrs Countryfolks), for the detailed repair PM.
We now have hot water again.
It was a bear getting the brass fitting/check valve off the water heater, had to run to a local Home Depot and pick up a pipe wrench. None of my "garage tools" would break it loose.

Hope these "minor inconenient breakages" are not a sign of the times for a 2.5 year old rig. Anyway, it was a learning experience.

Thank all

[richfaa]

That check valve problem is fairly common so common that I have a spare in my "Spare box" so when it happens I will not have to run out and find one.

[sreigle]

Had the same problem with our 3295RK. It was the checkvalve. All RV dealers likely have it but there are a few different styles so pull yours out and take it with you. It was less than five bucks.

The valve is screwed into the body of the water heater and then the incoming cold line screws onto it.

[bigbob7777]

I had the same problem. I called the manufacturer and Keystone and both swore to high heavens that there wasn't one installed. Well, needless to say, it was there. I had a hard time trying to break it loose. I didn't want to strip/break anything, so I gave up.
However, I stuck my finger into the valve (from outside the tank, of course) and apparently that freed it up. I didn't feel anything move, but it has worked perfectly for about 4 months now.

Go figure.
bob

[OntMont]

quote:Originally posted by richfaa

That check valve problem is fairly common so common that I have a spare in my "Spare box" so when it happens I will not have to run out and find one.

I understand that it is a 1" six point deep socket that is required to remove that valve. I have a spare valve and socket on board, so that should ensure that mine will never fail.

[jrhaman]

I had the same problem and the same remedy as bigbob 7777. I could not get the check valve off for nothing. I was afraid I would break it. I took the line off and stuck my finger inside and it has been fine ever since. j